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Need a bracket for idle solenoid on 4bbl Qjet and help with vacuum and other plumbing
I just swapped the factory 2bbl intake for a 4bbl factory intake and Q-jet and I hope people might have some detail pictures or other help with the many vacuum and other fittings on the carb and manifold as i'm trying to get things as close to factory as possible.
If you can, please point out other details that look wrong too (like, I know the engine should be painted gold, but is the thermostat bypass pipe supposed to be painted too? Hardware? Clamps or brackets missing or wrong?) I sometimes judge at car shows, but I don't much about these cars, so I always like learning things that seem unimportant to people who are more interested in things running...
Here are a bunch of pictures and what I was looking for in each of them:
Pictures 1 through 7: The vacuum ports and nipples on this carb. and manifold are a little different than on the two barrel. Three at the bottom of the front of the carb. and two at the top of the back end. I think the valve cover vent hose goes to the big nipple at the front, but is the curved end used on an Olds or should I cut it off? Are there any brackets to hold the hose on the way to the left valve cover breather and are the black spring hose clamps correct for that hose? There is also a fitting to the rear of the carb. with a few nipples that probably go somewhere and another blue elbow in the manifold that has nothing connected yet. Also, a "tower" with three nipples in front of the carb. BTW, this is a factory AC equipped car and I am going to eventually install the compressor again to get it all working.
Also, I used the 1/4" thick base gasket that came with my rebuild kit instead of the thinner option, but I feel like the bolts don't really thread into the manifold as much as I'd like. I got them from Inline tube. Maybe they are slightly too short...
Last edited by tcolt; March 14th, 2017 at 12:31 AM.
This picture shows the idle speed solenoid that came off my 2 barrel carb. I think it might be the same as used on the 4 barrel, but the bracket that connects it to the carb. is different. If anybody has an extra bracket like that that you'd part with, please let me know.
The first picture shows the vacuum hose from the distributor going exactly to which port? Also, a hose that comes from the charcoal canister at the right front of the engine bay. And another that comes from a black spherical canister that's mounted straight to the firewall, right by the transmission dip stick tube (second picture). Also, below the canister, there's a screw plugging up another smog line that probably used to go to something.... Do any of these majorly affect engine performance in a negative way? I'm guessing the charcoal canister probably doesn't do much to clean the air anymore and we don't have to smog cars this old in California, so I might skip something that's bad for engine performance.
Also, is there a second bracket that holds the smaller heater hose before it goes to the back of the intake manifold? In the 3rd picture there's another hole in a bracket next to the heater hose bracket. What's supposed to go there? The 4th picture shows another bracket that holds the large heater hose to the top of the AC bracket on top of the AC manifold. Is that correct and does anyone have an extra one of those they want to part with?
Last edited by tcolt; March 14th, 2017 at 01:21 AM.
Here are a few more pictures with some questions: I know the throttle spring should go in the other hole in the lever, but I need to use that hole to attach my additional tv cable extension. How does the throttle return spring attach on the later cars that have extended throttle valve levers for 200-R4 and 700-4R transmissions? Also, where is the spring supposed to attach on the other side at the bracket?
The 3rd picture shows the carb. at idle position. Is it normal that the lever for the accelerator pump is that far away from the piston rod in that position? Also, the idle stop screw is not nearly touching the lever, even though I think the throttle valves are completely closed. Shouldn't it be just touching?...
In the 4th picture, what kind of screw holds the flimsy plastic radiator hose bracket to the shroud? A sheet metal screw or a screw and a bolt? What size?
Last edited by tcolt; March 14th, 2017 at 01:28 AM.
The first picture shows the vacuum hose from the distributor going exactly to which port?
You should get a Factory Service Manual. It will tell you whether you should connect your distributor to manifold or ported vacuum. Plus it will answer all your other questions.
FWIW, I have my distributor connected to ported vacuum on my 455, but there aren't many stock parts left on the engine.
Do you have an electronic copy of that in pdf format? I found a body assembly manual for a 1972 Cutlass, etc. and in section 6.1 it shows a few diagrams that seem to talk about optional equipment and parts for the engine and modifications, but it's a little difficult to understand what my engine should look like from that. Is that the same as a service manual? I hope that pictures from people who have a fairly stock engine bay or even concours restorations might be helpful, as well as getting a discussion going....
Last edited by tcolt; March 14th, 2017 at 11:01 PM.
This picture shows the idle speed solenoid that came off my 2 barrel carb. I think it might be the same as used on the 4 barrel, but the bracket that connects it to the carb. is different. If anybody has an extra bracket like that that you'd part with, please let me know.
The correct carb solenoid bracket setup is shown in the pic below....it's stamped with a PN of 30603 (don't know if you can read it in the pic). This came from a 4 bbl Olds carb.
The electric solenoids are reproduced.....I believe Inline Tube has them or maybe you can find a good used one (I'll check my stash here for a solenoid but as of this time THE BRACKET setup isn't for sale). EDIT: I see you have the solenoid and it is likely the same as the 4 bbl solenoid from what I can see.
Your distributor vacuum hose should be attached to a ported vacuum source...ie on the carb....not directly into the intake. BUT....it may have been routed to it's vac source via one of the TCS/TVS switch/trees that was screwed into the front intake water passage hole on the L side of the thermo housing (on the Passenger side of the front water passage).
Upper Rad Hose Black Plastic Strap - that is held to the fan shroud with a #10 sheet metal screw type fastener...if you want "correct" then it needs to be a flange screw...see pic#2.
Thread length of 3/8 - 1/2".....don't need it any longer than that and no nuts, etc used....just the screw.
Also - you said...
"Also, is there a second bracket that holds the smaller heater hose before it goes to the back of the intake manifold? In the 3rd picture there's another hole in a bracket next to the heater hose bracket. What's supposed to go there? The 4th picture shows another bracket that holds the large heater hose to the top of the AC bracket on top of the AC manifold. Is that correct and does anyone have an extra one of those they want to part with?"
Nothing goes into the other screw hole you mention in your 3rd pic. That heater hose is held on by the correct bracket you already have on there
In your 4th pic showing the gold 350 motor....YES...that is the correct part to hold the larger 3/4" heater hose to that AC bracket and intake hole. That metal "strap" is only used on AC equipped cars. The strap is available reproduction -Inline Tube sells the strap for $16 but you'll probably want the COMPLETE setup which means the strap, a unique length bolt (3/8 x 1-5/8") and a flat washer made for this application. 1-5/8" means the bolt SHAFT length....length BELOW the head of the bolt. Someone here should have one of these strap setups.
Last edited by 70Post; March 14th, 2017 at 09:41 PM.
Thanks Pat. That's the solenoid bracket and lock ring. I think my solenoid will fit that bracket and I think there's a chance somebody else might have one. If not, I'll have to hit the junk yards.
Thanks for the screw details. Were these screws generally white, yellow or black?
Olds64, I did find a few diagrams in my assembly manual that show some of the carburetor plumbing, but the 4bbl also showed a vacuum actuator instead of the anti-diesel solenoid (which I thought was an idle speed solenoid), so I don't really know how much I can rely on that information.
You mentioned you needed info on 2004R and 700R4 transmission linkages. Which one do you have in your car? If it's either and you have a 72 Cutlass then why worry about originality?
Thanks Pat. That's the solenoid bracket and lock ring. I think my solenoid will fit that bracket and I think there's a chance somebody else might have one. If not, I'll have to hit the junk yards.
Thanks for the screw details. Were these screws generally white, yellow or black?
Olds64, I did find a few diagrams in my assembly manual that show some of the carburetor plumbing, but the 4bbl also showed a vacuum actuator instead of the anti-diesel solenoid (which I thought was an idle speed solenoid), so I don't really know how much I can rely on that information.
If you're referring to the screw (single screw) that holds the upper rad hose retainer strap in place then the original was a black plated screw. You see a lot of zinc plated (ie silver) screws used there now (repro strap kits use those I believe) BUT I'm almost 100% certain the factory screw was black. It'll be a #10 hex flange screw (for the "technical" name).
The screws that hold the idle solenoid bracket to the carb are a bit unique....large slotted (screwdriver style) black plated screws. Pic below shows a pair. Parts of the surface may appear shiny but that's b/c I had filed down some screwdriver-induced wear and tear along the slot edges prior to replating.
Thanks Pat. I just realized that I skipped a bunch of your useful information. I found the hose strap from Inline Tube. From the picture above I take it the original was not painted and theirs is. I might just see if somebody here has that bracket too.
What kind of plating do you normally use for black screws? Black Oxide or black phosphate?
Olds64. I guess, I should have started this thread out by saying this is for my 1972 Vista Cruiser. Many people on this site already have helped me with the work I've been doing including building a 2004R for it and the 2 to 4 bbl conversion using a correct 7042250 Q-jet for which I simply fabricated a short length extension for the TV cable. I know that's not 100% original, but I don't mind mostly factory with minor "improvements". I recently spent 5 or 6 evenings with a needle and thread to stitch around the seems of all 4 sunvisors where the thread had disintegrated. Had to find the old holes going through 4 layers of material including the binding around the edges. I'd much rather restore a clean original part than replace parts although I did have to get a new headliner. Luckily, it was available in the exact original material.
Last edited by tcolt; March 21st, 2017 at 01:30 PM.
I think the valve cover vent hose goes to the big nipple at the front, but is the curved end used on an Olds or should I cut it off? Are there any brackets to hold the hose on the way to the left valve cover breather and are the black spring hose clamps correct for that hose?
Here is an answer to part of my question from Pat (70Post) about the breather hose which I did indeed buy from Chevy restorer Jeff at PacecarJeff.com:
"That hose is a Chevy part (very long hose with the 90 degree bend in the end). That angled end is sort of nice if you put THAT END on the PCV valve on the D side v cover and then route the straight end over to the fitting on the front of the carb throttle blade plate.
It results in a more "sanitary" look/installation in that the hose coming out of the top of the PCV valve makes the right turn instead of having a longer relaxed loop that you would get using a straight end hose at the PCV valve. Use either style but it's more of a personal preference deal. If you have the GM/Chevy PCV hose it's made extremely long and you'll end up cutting a lot off of the carb end (assuming you want to retain the 90 degree bend @the PCV valve)."
Thanks Pat. Now, the question is whether my black PCV hose clamps are the same as on a Chevy...
Last edited by tcolt; March 17th, 2017 at 10:29 AM.
I recently spent 5 or 6 evenings with a needle and thread to stitch around the seems of all 4 sunvisors where the thread had disintegrated.
I need to do the same to my 71 98. The sun visor seam has come apart.
If you have a 2004R in your VC then you can source aftermarket linkages from Summit or Jegs. I suppose you could find an OE linkage on an 80s G body Cutlass as well. They used a CCC Q-jet and a 2004R transmission.
I need to do the same to my 71 98. The sun visor seam has come apart.
If you have a 2004R in your VC then you can source aftermarket linkages from Summit or Jegs. I suppose you could find an OE linkage on an 80s G body Cutlass as well. They used a CCC Q-jet and a 2004R transmission.
Yeah. I like to understand how it all works anyway, so I just made an extension. It's going on today...
don't put that spring in the other hole unless you hook it towards the front of the engine. if you put in the lower hole and leave it where it is on the other end it will hold the throttle open. look on some of the picture on here of the restored cars 99% of them are dead on for brkts and things.
On my car, if I hook the spring into the bottom half of the lever it rotates the shaft counter-clockwise to close the butterfly valves. I just don't have any holes on the mounting bracket (off an 80s Cutlass) to put the other end of the spring.
Who can tell me if the bracket that holds the heater hose on an AC car should be painted black as Inline tube does ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-69-70-71-...39F1ZMfvUSCk6Q ) or not, as shown in the picture of the Gold colored engine above (picture 12)?
The original factory hose bracket was grey phosphate plated....not black. I'm referring to the bracket that holds the heater hose to the intake/AC bracket.
The bolt for this bracket is a somewhat unique size but it may be the same bolt as the distributor clamp bolt...I'll check.
Factory also used thin flat washer under the bolt head.
Last edited by 70Post; March 21st, 2017 at 08:41 PM.
Thanks Pat. So they are both not quite correct... Is that the same grey phosphate used on the black sheet metal screw for the upper radiator hose plastic clamp? The one I just got from Inline tube was white zinc... No markings and a rim around a dished hex head.
Thanks for your details and I will wait to hear about whether the distributor clamp bolt is the correct one so I can hopefully find one at a junk yard. There's no hurry though...
Last edited by tcolt; March 21st, 2017 at 10:01 PM.
No - the strap is originally a lighter to medium grey phosphate. I've pulled MANY of these from Olds's over the years and they were never a black painted finish....always the grey phosphate. Typically, the bolts are a bit darker (the rad hose strap screw you refer to)....more of a charcoal grey phosphate on up to a more true black color.
Some of these repro parts are "close but not exact".....but they occasionally seem to upgrade finishes, accuracy, etc.
The clear zinc (what you call "white") is sort of the basic/default finish for most fasteners these days. On grade 8 (high strength) it's yellow zinc (ie gold).
As for the bolt for that bracket....I checked them here:
>Dist clamp bolt is 3/8 x 1-1/2 "TR" head marking....but has no bolt grade/strength markings on the bolt head so it's likely a Grade 2 bolt (the lowest strength used and not a lot of load on a dist clamp bolt).
>AC bracket bolt is 3/8 X 1-5/8 "TR" head marking with grade markings showing it's a Grade 5 bolt (ie-3 hash marks on bolt head). This bolt probably got cranked down a bit harder since it holds that large AC cast iron bracket to the top of the intake.
You might check salvage for any AC-equipped Olds's....88's, 98's and others may have the same bolt/strap setup but not 100% sure. Of course, the Olds Abodies w/AC used this strap/bolt, etc.
Sometime prior to 1970....the strap was much shorter and had a sort of belled or flared edge on the strap where the hose passed through it. Done that way to prevent cutting on the hose. I'm pretty sure this was the mid-60's version but I'm not sure when they changed over to the longer strap we're discussing here. (PIC below shows "earlier" strap/bolt setup).
Last edited by 70Post; March 21st, 2017 at 10:45 PM.
I don't have much luck at the local Southern California yards. There are rarely any rear wheel drive Olds from the 60s through 80s and if there are they are usually not complete enough to have original parts like brackets or clamps. I like the 60s bracket better, but obviously it didn't work for Olds. I just found out that my radiator shroud was stripped, so it won't take the sheet metal screw anyway, without some sort of backup nut.
Here are pictures of my simple throttle arm extension that I attached to the original arm with minimal modification. It provides the required 1.35" of travel to the 200-4R throttle valve. Plus, the throttle valve already starts out at about 1/2" extended at idle.
I hope you don't mind if I ask you a few more questions, since you are such a detail person. Do you have anybody for factory Olds/ Delco type batteries or even just fake battery tops? Were the original batteries side mount, like it is in my car right now?
Also, have you ever found a finish to replicate the dull grey finish found on distributor vacuum cans and some hose clamps (especially European cars)? Some of them even have a mottled kind of finish. I think it's called zinc flame-sprayed or galvanized zinc. It may only be possible to treat the raw sheet metal that way.
OK - let's step back a couple steps....time for some "edumication"
>Clear Zinc - This is the silver color (you call "white") zinc finish you've shown pics of. Galvanizing IS zinc...just a different application process AND different look. "Flame" applied?? - You've been going to to many of those Marvel Comic's-originated movies.
>Dist Vacuum Advance Canister - What you call "dull" is just the deteriorated original shiny/bright clear zinc finish. SO.....what you want it a nice, new zinc plated finish...
Take your pick - any number of "silver" spray can finishes are about as close as you'll get. Folks may refer to or suggest Eastwood's "Clear Zinc" spray can finish....don't waste your $$$$. It's not remotely close to the original look/finish.
For the same $ you can buy a brand new, high quality vacuum advance canister from NAPA Auto Parts (I'll post which PN would be appropriate later).
>"Stripped Out" Upper Rad Holes in Fan Shroud Plastic - Use a "flat nut" to back up the screw.....I may have the correct size. If not, I'll go grab some at the nearby fastener supply place. Don't let some stripped out plastic prevent you from using the right looking fastener.
I can likely provide the right length screw to use w/a flat nut and will check it all against an original fan shroud here.
>Batteries, etc - You can pay big $ for a repro battery (ie - $300+) OR just buy a "battery topper" for whatever style Delco battery you want to "recreate ($49). Go with a topper and spend a fraction of the savings on some nice repro "Spring Ring" battery cables if you really want the original look. Spend some more of the savings on a nice higher end battery like a NAPA Gold (ie - Dekka Battery - Made In USA) battery.
>Lack of local salvage places - No problem....I probably have a already-replated heater hose strap setup here.
Start a list of what original stuff you think you need and can't source locally.
Last edited by 70Post; March 24th, 2017 at 12:35 AM.
OK - let's step back a couple steps....time for some "edumication"
Thanks Pat! Here is my long list on responses and a few new discoveries.
>Clear Zinc - This is the silver color (you call "white") zinc finish you've shown pics of. Galvanizing IS zinc...just a different application process AND different look. "Flame" applied?? - You've been going to to many of those Marvel Comic's-originated movies.
There is a zinc process used on European sheet metal that translates to Flame-Zinc-sprayed... :-)
>Dist Vacuum Advance Canister - What you call "dull" is just the deteriorated original shiny/bright clear zinc finish. SO.....what you want it a nice, new zinc plated finish...
You're probably right. I've re-plated a lot of hose clamps (European cars) and clear zinc is too shiny. Possibly, the original metal straps were unprotected steel band and not plated at all?
>Take your pick - any number of "silver" spray can finishes are about as close as you'll get. Folks may refer to or suggest Eastwood's "Clear Zinc" spray can finish....don't waste your $$$$. It's not remotely close to the original look/finish.
>For the same $ you can buy a brand new, high quality vacuum advance canister from NAPA Auto Parts (I'll post which PN would be appropriate later).
I would love to get the part number (again, no hurry...) This is a luxury we don't have with European cars of that vintage. Are there good reproductions for the heater valves that thread into the back of the intake manifold and don't break the bank? For that matter, the coolant temp. and oil pressure sensors at the front of the manifold too.
(I'm not referring to Fusick and OPGI. More like Napa and RockAuto...;-) Or do they all pretty close? Mine isn't a concours car, the blue engine being the most glaring tip-off, but if I'm going to replace original parts, I'd like to chose the better option. For instance, my water pump had already been replaced, otherwise I would have had it rebuilt.
>"Stripped Out" Upper Rad Holes in Fan Shroud Plastic - Use a "flat nut" to back up the screw.....I may have the correct size. If not, I'll go grab some at the nearby fastener supply place. Don't let some stripped out plastic prevent you from using the right looking fastener.
Never!...
>I can likely provide the right length screw to use w/a flat nut and will check it all against an original fan shroud here.
Yes!
>Batteries, etc - You can pay big $ for a repro battery (ie - $300+) OR just buy a "battery topper" for whatever style Delco battery you want to "recreate ($49). Go with a topper and spend a fraction of the savings on some nice repro "Spring Ring" battery cables if you really want the original look. Spend some more of the savings on a nice higher end battery like a NAPA Gold (ie - Dekka Battery - Made In USA) battery.
Thanks for the tip.... Does this look correct and I looked at the 1972 Cutlass assembly manual (mostly the same as for thee VC?). I can't see that they would have used those spring ring battery cables?...
>Lack of local salvage places - No problem....I probably have a already-replated heater hose strap setup here.
Start a list of what original stuff you think you need and can't source locally.
I don't know if I'll be able to spend big dollars just to have all original screws, but I've gone over the assembly manual and it looks like I may be missing some engine brackets, clips and screws... Please send me a pm with prices if you do have these parts:
AC heater hose strap, held by bolt 9419053?
I also think I could be missing some metal straps that attach to the left valve cover and hold the cable straps 409217 (as shown in the pictures below), but I really couldn't quite figure out what engine the drawings apply to.
3899723 clamp for brake vacuum tube to wire harness clip (also missing)
Clamp (402027) and screw (9422232) for vent hose. It looks like there is also a larger U shaped bracket that this vent hose passes under.
But the assembly manual also talks about Red, Yellow and Blue vacuum hoses. Maybe I'm going overboard here. I'm not sure I will even use all the original vacuum connections unless they are used for AC or engine performance. I probably don't have to keep anything that was only used to pass emissions rules. To further complicate things Inlinetube sells a kit made up of only black hoses and normally they seem to be pretty close:
Finally, what goes on the empty blue screw on my manifold below? Is it the bracket for the anti-diesel actuator? Someone told me that the anti-diesel solenoid which was on my 2 barrel Rochester was not used on the 4 barrel until 1973, but instead an "actuator". Is that right?
Does the black cable harness clip connect to the alternator bracket from the bottom? It seems like the weight of the harness would want to push it back off that bracket?....
Last edited by tcolt; March 28th, 2017 at 11:12 PM.
You should get a Factory Service Manual. It will tell you whether you should connect your distributor to manifold or ported vacuum. Plus it will answer all your other questions.
FWIW, I have my distributor connected to ported vacuum on my 455, but there aren't many stock parts left on the engine.
Is this the correct service manual that you mentioned for my Vista Cruiser?
edit: btw, don't buy a brand new one - get a used one and while looking for other CSMs for a better price (perhaps) - be sure it's an original GM paperback edition - plenty out there still
Last edited by Vintage Chief; January 23rd, 2019 at 05:00 PM.
Thanks a lot Chief! I wonder what the link I saw is selling?.... It also seems to include a few "shop manuals" and parts cds?...
Thanks, Tom
The paperback CSM is the underscoring highlight which contains the factory service specifications. Depending on vendor you purchase from (but, in general) you might also receive a Oldsmobile Parts Manual with Wiring Diagrams (CD), Factory Assembly (CD) & the Fisher Body (CD). Sometimes these CDs are OK and sometimes they're terrible - mine border on being marginal in terms of the quality of the reproduction - often the pages aren't clearly visible. The CDs were created from scanning original documents and after a gazillion copies, they lose their quality. Colored wiring diagrams are contained in the paperback edition and are of excellent quality. An original CSM is what you want.
Thanks Norm. Would the CSM also have the exact routing of vacuum hoses on the engine, maybe even their color coding? What kinds of information would I find in the Fisher manual?
Thanks Norm. Would the CSM also have the exact routing of vacuum hoses on the engine, maybe even their color coding? What kinds of information would I find in the Fisher manual?
colt- The CSM contains the exact routings of the vacuum hoses on the engine. As i recall, however, I do not believe they are either illustrated in color nor described in color. I read an earlier post of yours discussing colored hoses. I'll add this to your brain.
My 71' CS is a numbers matching vehicle - all original except for the exterior paint (which, the PO did at some point). I'm not interested in maintaining a collector's edition vehicle; although, I would like my vehicle to be as original as possible. Therefore, I do look for as many ways to get original equipment as possible - within reason. I don't care about an original battery, an original battery cable, battery cable end-attachment, rotor, distributor cover, etc. etc. I consider many items as 'maintenance' items on any vehicle and this vehicle is included. So, when I decided to R&R all of my hoses (fuel, vacuum, radiator, etc.) - I went straight-away to my local parts store & purchased up-to-date vacuum hose of the proper size - ALL BLACK and of excellent quality. Now, with that said, I'll mention this. As a newbie (while putting together a larger order), I purchased from Inlinetube.com a set of period correct color vacuum hoses. I think I still have the color diagram which was included with the hoses. Well I removed the DVCS from my intake manifold (didn't need that hose), I don't think the 'kit' included the distributor vacuum advance hose, and I don't have the air cleaner breather vent assembly connected with routing of those hoses (in and about the fuel vapor canister, etc.). But, I'll say this. I read somewhere on CO regarding quality of those 'colored' hoses and wherever and whomever wrote it was correct. The Inline tube hoses, while they had a nice color to them - the color was 'painted' on. Don't get me wrong - the quality of rubber is excellent; the painted-on colors; well, I didn't think too much of. I used only one - a small (red stripe) piece from the carburetor choke into the carburetor port I cut-to-length myself - that was it. It is my understanding (I probably read this from Joe P's thread somewhere) that the truly original vacuum tubes were manufactured with the colors molded into the rubber. Again, if you'd like, I can look for the color diagram but it's not in the CSM.
Regarding, the Fisher manual - I just looked for it the other day and can't find it. I may have tossed it because it may have been the same as the CSM but on CD? Actually, I can't recall - I might have tried to use it once or something. I'll have another look and others will probably jump in and tell you what's on it.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; January 24th, 2019 at 11:00 AM.
Actually, it's not so bad - contains quite a bit of decent information. My copy is I'd consider 'fair' - remember I told you these vendors who sell this stuff are using copies upon copies of previously 'scanned' information so - YMMV.
Here is a list of the various contained sections. 36MB .pdf format. It's a gazillion pages long. I can't tell you exactly because the paging enumeration is as ancient as Fred & Wilma but it's very long. Now I recall why it's not something I'm concerned about. It contains Fisher Body information for all of the GM divisions - Chevrolet, Pontiac, Cadillac, Oldsmobile, etc. - tons of information an 'officiant' might be interested in; but not me. HTH
BTW, that's excellent that you got the FSM you needed. Be wary of scanned PDF copies on CD/DVD though. The diagrams are sometimes poor quality and blurry.
March 13th, 2017, 11:37 PM
