Horn Not Working
August 5th, 2016, 06:25 PM
#1
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Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 95
Horn Not Working
Hi, I have a 1967 442. My horns stopped working. We have completed the following:
-Removed the horns and jumped them with the battery. They work fine.
Symptoms:
- We have continuity from the horn button to the relay. Each time we push the horn button we get continuity.
-the horns have 12 volts at all times. (don't understand this)
- we reinstall the horns and attached the positive wire to the horn, the relay clicks.
- We also have 12 volts at the horn button when we push it we get spark.
What we have done:
-Replaced the horn relay, twice.
-cleaned all terminals
- replaced a couple of wire plugs. (the connecting wires to the relay, black and green)
- checked the continuity from the relay to the horns. OK
What are we missing? Any clues? All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Carl
-Removed the horns and jumped them with the battery. They work fine.
Symptoms:
- We have continuity from the horn button to the relay. Each time we push the horn button we get continuity.
-the horns have 12 volts at all times. (don't understand this)
- we reinstall the horns and attached the positive wire to the horn, the relay clicks.
- We also have 12 volts at the horn button when we push it we get spark.
What we have done:
-Replaced the horn relay, twice.
-cleaned all terminals
- replaced a couple of wire plugs. (the connecting wires to the relay, black and green)
- checked the continuity from the relay to the horns. OK
What are we missing? Any clues? All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Carl
August 5th, 2016, 07:02 PM
#2
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
So, if you jump the horn wire where it connects to the relay, do the horns both blow?
If you put a test light between the relay output terminal, where the horn wire connects, and ground, does the light glow when you press the horn button?
- Eric
If you put a test light between the relay output terminal, where the horn wire connects, and ground, does the light glow when you press the horn button?
- Eric
August 6th, 2016, 06:27 AM
#3
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
Hi, I have a 1967 442. My horns stopped working. We have completed the following:
-Removed the horns and jumped them with the battery. They work fine.
Symptoms:
- We have continuity from the horn button to the relay. Each time we push the horn button we get continuity.
-the horns have 12 volts at all times. (don't understand this)
- we reinstall the horns and attached the positive wire to the horn, the relay clicks.
- We also have 12 volts at the horn button when we push it we get spark.
What we have done:
-Replaced the horn relay, twice.
-cleaned all terminals
- replaced a couple of wire plugs. (the connecting wires to the relay, black and green)
- checked the continuity from the relay to the horns. OK
What are we missing? Any clues? All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Carl
-Removed the horns and jumped them with the battery. They work fine.
Symptoms:
- We have continuity from the horn button to the relay. Each time we push the horn button we get continuity.
-the horns have 12 volts at all times. (don't understand this)
- we reinstall the horns and attached the positive wire to the horn, the relay clicks.
- We also have 12 volts at the horn button when we push it we get spark.
What we have done:
-Replaced the horn relay, twice.
-cleaned all terminals
- replaced a couple of wire plugs. (the connecting wires to the relay, black and green)
- checked the continuity from the relay to the horns. OK
What are we missing? Any clues? All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Carl
Start by jumpering the green wire at the relay to +12V. If the horns work, you are good to that point. Reconnect those wires and ground the relay terminal that the black wire goes to. If the horns work, the problem is either the black wire or the steering column or horn button. If the horns do not work, does the relay click? If it does, the contacts are bad and the relay likely needs to be replaced.
August 6th, 2016, 12:12 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 95
You might want to review the wiring of the horn circuit. The horn button on the steering column is normally open and provides ground to operate the coil in the horn relay. The relay coil is connected to +12v on the red wire that goes to the threaded post. The black wire to the steering column will show this +12v that is passing through the coil wire in the relay. When the black wire is grounded (by the horn button), the coil energizes and pulls the relay contacts together. This then connects the red +12V wire to the green wire that runs to the horns.
Start by jumpering the green wire at the relay to +12V. If the horns work, you are good to that point. Reconnect those wires and ground the relay terminal that the black wire goes to. If the horns work, the problem is either the black wire or the steering column or horn button. If the horns do not work, does the relay click? If it does, the contacts are bad and the relay likely needs to be replaced.
Start by jumpering the green wire at the relay to +12V. If the horns work, you are good to that point. Reconnect those wires and ground the relay terminal that the black wire goes to. If the horns work, the problem is either the black wire or the steering column or horn button. If the horns do not work, does the relay click? If it does, the contacts are bad and the relay likely needs to be replaced.
August 6th, 2016, 12:25 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 95
You might want to review the wiring of the horn circuit. The horn button on the steering column is normally open and provides ground to operate the coil in the horn relay. The relay coil is connected to +12v on the red wire that goes to the threaded post. The black wire to the steering column will show this +12v that is passing through the coil wire in the relay. When the black wire is grounded (by the horn button), the coil energizes and pulls the relay contacts together. This then connects the red +12V wire to the green wire that runs to the horns.
Start by jumpering the green wire at the relay to +12V. If the horns work, you are good to that point. Reconnect those wires and ground the relay terminal that the black wire goes to. If the horns work, the problem is either the black wire or the steering column or horn button. If the horns do not work, does the relay click? If it does, the contacts are bad and the relay likely needs to be replaced.
Start by jumpering the green wire at the relay to +12V. If the horns work, you are good to that point. Reconnect those wires and ground the relay terminal that the black wire goes to. If the horns work, the problem is either the black wire or the steering column or horn button. If the horns do not work, does the relay click? If it does, the contacts are bad and the relay likely needs to be replaced.
August 6th, 2016, 12:39 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
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You might want to review the wiring of the horn circuit. The horn button on the steering column is normally open and provides ground to operate the coil in the horn relay. The relay coil is connected to +12v on the red wire that goes to the threaded post. The black wire to the steering column will show this +12v that is passing through the coil wire in the relay. When the black wire is grounded (by the horn button), the coil energizes and pulls the relay contacts together. This then connects the red +12V wire to the green wire that runs to the horns.
Start by jumpering the green wire at the relay to +12V. If the horns work, you are good to that point. Reconnect those wires and ground the relay terminal that the black wire goes to. If the horns work, the problem is either the black wire or the steering column or horn button. If the horns do not work, does the relay click? If it does, the contacts are bad and the relay likely needs to be replaced.
Start by jumpering the green wire at the relay to +12V. If the horns work, you are good to that point. Reconnect those wires and ground the relay terminal that the black wire goes to. If the horns work, the problem is either the black wire or the steering column or horn button. If the horns do not work, does the relay click? If it does, the contacts are bad and the relay likely needs to be replaced.
August 6th, 2016, 01:30 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 95
Thanks Eric and Joe, I have replaced the original relay twice. The first time I purchased a cheapo relay from the parts store. It never worked and I had the same problem. I went to Fusick and purchased the correct relay ($90). Installed it and still had nothing.
Preformed the following tests
:
Removed the black horn button wire from the relay. Jumped the relay to ground, on the horn button side, by-passing the black wire to the steering wheel. Nothing.
Also removed the green wire from the relay, jumped it to the positive terminal under the relay and got the horn to work. Black wire was not installed, grounded or attached to the relay. Horns worked.
I tested for voltage. Had 12v at the green wire plug. Nothing at the black wire.
Replace all wires to the relay. Attached the green wire to the horn and got a loud click from the relay.
I then decided to open the old original relay. The inside was burnt pretty good. Obviously shorted.
Is it possible I have another bad relay?
Could there be a short elsewhere that is causing the problem and burning out relays?
Preformed the following tests
:
Removed the black horn button wire from the relay. Jumped the relay to ground, on the horn button side, by-passing the black wire to the steering wheel. Nothing.
Also removed the green wire from the relay, jumped it to the positive terminal under the relay and got the horn to work. Black wire was not installed, grounded or attached to the relay. Horns worked.
I tested for voltage. Had 12v at the green wire plug. Nothing at the black wire.
Replace all wires to the relay. Attached the green wire to the horn and got a loud click from the relay.
I then decided to open the old original relay. The inside was burnt pretty good. Obviously shorted.
Is it possible I have another bad relay?
Could there be a short elsewhere that is causing the problem and burning out relays?
August 6th, 2016, 02:44 PM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Is it possible that the Chinese subcontractor could have put a non-working relay in the box?
- Eric
August 6th, 2016, 04:26 PM
#9
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Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
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Hi Eric, thanks for the quick response. I have the green wire hooked to the terminal that has 12v to is all the time. If I switch them, the black wire would have 12v to it all the time. Should the black wire have voltage all the time? Wouldn"t I be applying 12v direct to ground? Guess I will try and switch them and see what happens.
I will get another relay tomorrow, but do not have access to the original. I will try using another universal relay. Since the $90 relay is electrical, I doubt they will accept it back. Let you know how I make out. This is really driving me crazy. Thanks so much for your help. Carl
I will get another relay tomorrow, but do not have access to the original. I will try using another universal relay. Since the $90 relay is electrical, I doubt they will accept it back. Let you know how I make out. This is really driving me crazy. Thanks so much for your help. Carl
August 6th, 2016, 04:46 PM
#10
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
You're welcome.
Yes.
Yes, when you press the horn button.
I wouldn't, at least not until you've switched the wires, which is free.
- Eric
ps: Do you find that your battery is running down when you leave the car for a week or so?
Yes, when you press the horn button.
I wouldn't, at least not until you've switched the wires, which is free.
- Eric
ps: Do you find that your battery is running down when you leave the car for a week or so?
August 6th, 2016, 04:48 PM
#11
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
You might want to review the wiring of the horn circuit. The horn button on the steering column is normally open and provides ground to operate the coil in the horn relay. The relay coil is connected to +12v on the red wire that goes to the threaded post. The black wire to the steering column will show this +12v that is passing through the coil wire in the relay. When the black wire is grounded (by the horn button), the coil energizes and pulls the relay contacts together. This then connects the red +12V wire to the green wire that runs to the horns.
Start by jumpering the green wire at the relay to +12V. If the horns work, you are good to that point. Reconnect those wires and ground the relay terminal that the black wire goes to. If the horns work, the problem is either the black wire or the steering column or horn button. If the horns do not work, does the relay click? If it does, the contacts are bad and the relay likely needs to be replaced.
Start by jumpering the green wire at the relay to +12V. If the horns work, you are good to that point. Reconnect those wires and ground the relay terminal that the black wire goes to. If the horns work, the problem is either the black wire or the steering column or horn button. If the horns do not work, does the relay click? If it does, the contacts are bad and the relay likely needs to be replaced.
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