Saved-68 442
#1
Saved-68 442
Picked up a 68 442 today.....need help with decoding
Cowel
D55 M40V 29
68 34487 05(S)312747
940. 2-1-5. CGG
VIN
3448781111438
On top of water pump...386026. C or 396026G..it was pretty dirty!
Made in Canada
Thanks for help!
Ted
Cowel
D55 M40V 29
68 34487 05(S)312747
940. 2-1-5. CGG
VIN
3448781111438
On top of water pump...386026. C or 396026G..it was pretty dirty!
Made in Canada
Thanks for help!
Ted
Last edited by sammy; November 15th, 2012 at 06:11 PM. Reason: addition
#2
442
Vin 3448781111438
3=Olds
44=442 V8
87=2dr Holiday Coupe
8= 1968
1= Oshawa
11438=Production number
Car has wooden sport wheel, black interior floor shift with 3speed with kick down, original radio shoulder belts. Car is all original and not molested
Will post pics soon. BTW, it is Olive Green- a real sleeper
Ted
3=Olds
44=442 V8
87=2dr Holiday Coupe
8= 1968
1= Oshawa
11438=Production number
Car has wooden sport wheel, black interior floor shift with 3speed with kick down, original radio shoulder belts. Car is all original and not molested
Will post pics soon. BTW, it is Olive Green- a real sleeper
Ted
#3
Cool! I don't know the casting number well enough, but the correct 400 engine for 1968 would have a large letter G at the end of the number.
Waiting for pictures......
P.S. I've seen 1968 wheels with both real wood and plastic that looks like wood, similar to the shifter *****. Which one do you have?
Waiting for pictures......
P.S. I've seen 1968 wheels with both real wood and plastic that looks like wood, similar to the shifter *****. Which one do you have?
#5
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Ted,
Awesome - you are the proud owner of a Canadian 442!!
Can help with some of the decode for you on the cowl tag
D55 - console shifter
M40 - TH400 Transmission
V29 - ?? You sure it's V29? I think its U29 which is courtesy lighting package
05(S)? I think that should read OS
What you really want is a casting that shows 390925 on your 400. That is supposedly one uber rare engine.
your TR code is 940 - Black vinyl bucket seats and black interior trim
2-1-5 I think this has something to do with the build date and shift. My thought is 2 - second shift (PM or afternoon) 1 - month (Jan) 5 (week)
CGG - This should be your 3 PNT codes. (you may have one of the rarer 2 tone cars) Provincial white roof, willow gold body, willow gold steel rims with poverty caps if I'm not mistaken. If the car has SSII from the factory they would have been argent.
Here's a comparison cowl tag and VIN from a 68 post coupe that was built at Oshawa.
Awesome - you are the proud owner of a Canadian 442!!
Can help with some of the decode for you on the cowl tag
D55 - console shifter
M40 - TH400 Transmission
V29 - ?? You sure it's V29? I think its U29 which is courtesy lighting package
05(S)? I think that should read OS
What you really want is a casting that shows 390925 on your 400. That is supposedly one uber rare engine.
your TR code is 940 - Black vinyl bucket seats and black interior trim
2-1-5 I think this has something to do with the build date and shift. My thought is 2 - second shift (PM or afternoon) 1 - month (Jan) 5 (week)
CGG - This should be your 3 PNT codes. (you may have one of the rarer 2 tone cars) Provincial white roof, willow gold body, willow gold steel rims with poverty caps if I'm not mistaken. If the car has SSII from the factory they would have been argent.
Here's a comparison cowl tag and VIN from a 68 post coupe that was built at Oshawa.
#7
The 396026G is the correct and only block available for 68. (And 69 of course). The original matching numbers 400G block will make this car worth much more than a 66-67 390925E 400E block.
Last edited by allyolds68; November 16th, 2012 at 04:27 AM.
#8
Unless this was a Canadian thing there were no real wood steering wheels in 68. There's a really close reproduction one in wood that I think is for the Corvette (?) that I've seen used for the 68's.
Last edited by allyolds68; November 16th, 2012 at 04:27 AM.
#9
John
#11
bit more...
4 piston caliper ?
396026 G
C heads
Carb 7028251
seats made Jan 3 1968
12 bolt rear. boxed ca, sway bar
orig radio front and rear speakers....
look for engine number tomorrow
Ted
396026 G
C heads
Carb 7028251
seats made Jan 3 1968
12 bolt rear. boxed ca, sway bar
orig radio front and rear speakers....
look for engine number tomorrow
Ted
#13
Oldzzy, yup this one is from London.It was seller"s fathers. Sat since 1989,and 6 mo ago she floated it to her place where it sat until sh decided to sell. She said she had over 60 e mails in 2 days and around 780 hits on her ad
John, the lock ***** sure look like real wood
More to come....
Ted
John, the lock ***** sure look like real wood
More to come....
Ted
#14
#15
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Ted,
Nice score! Lots of TLC coming your way but a nice car to work with. The door lock ***** are aftermarket.
Did you find out what the gearing is and whether it's open or posi?
Nice score! Lots of TLC coming your way but a nice car to work with. The door lock ***** are aftermarket.
Did you find out what the gearing is and whether it's open or posi?
#16
#17
-rear end stamp 3917124 N the 3 could be a 8
12 bolt open
have no idea the gears 3.73, one friend said 4.13,4.34??? what did the 442 come with usually in 1968?
Found protecto plate still attached to owners manual
any help would be great !
thanx,
Ted
12 bolt open
have no idea the gears 3.73, one friend said 4.13,4.34??? what did the 442 come with usually in 1968?
Found protecto plate still attached to owners manual
any help would be great !
thanx,
Ted
Last edited by sammy; November 17th, 2012 at 10:52 PM. Reason: addition
#19
Wow, great save. Among the interesting points:
The faux wood steering wheel is pretty rare, nice to see. Same PN was in fact used on Corvettes, and that's how I found my perfect one- years ago, when you could see bidders' name and contact them via ePay, I bid on a 'vette wheel, did not win, but got a note from a 3rd party with one stashed in the basement, and was I interested? The steering wheel and shifter **** should be faux [plastic] wood. The lock ***** are cheesy aftermarket units, probably real wood.
As with all Canadian built 68-9's, your final drive is Chevy [C-] type. Your cowl tag has "344" body style- Lansing built '68 442's did NOT. If you can grab a close nice pic of that I would appreciate it- I collect info like that. Can you post pix or text of the POPlate info? GM of Canada may well have extensive documentation on this car's original configuration.
It looks like an original master cylinder- DO NOT turn it in for a core! Did you say 4-piston disk brakes? Rare as hell and much like Corvette calipers.
Air cleaner looks like the correct OG unit, and HOLY COW IT STILL HAS THE HOT AIR STOVE PARTS. And, it still has the steel PCV tube in the LH side also. It looks like she does NOT have HD cooling - can you spot the water pump ID [RH outlet boss] or the 6-digit casting ID on the inlet runner? Pulley ID codes readable?
It appears to not have heavy duty cooling. Yes, your engine ID is the correct "G" 400. The VIN stamp will probably match your VIN - about 2 fingers below the "C" found on the front of the LH head, on the vertical wall about 1/2 x 2" machined onto the block. It will be absent the "4487" part but otherwise will match the VIN tag. Ditto for the Auto trans - OG tag on RH side, and VIN stamp on LH side, just above the pan gasket, in the cast textured part of the housing. About midway fore-aft in the pan area.
one of your codes is probably the RARE TRIM I see between side windows and headliner - I have only seen this once or twice before, one was a car up north which I just refound a couple weeks ago- and it is a sport coupe I think. Not super exciting, but still a -rare- feature.
Dash stripe looks correct.
The "2-1-5" I believe was basically 5 columns off the Hollerith type Build Sheet Card, so various options would be called out by populating each column with a particular digit- for example, and this part I am just making up, so don't quote this- if you had HD brakes column 1 might be "1"; if you got power DISK brakes instead it would instead be a "2" - various other combinations would lead to [nothing or a dash as you wrote] or 3 or 4 or etc. Same with cooling options in some other column, lighting options in another column, etc.
More photos! Get the rear end ratio by counting turns, or... you know it needs inspection/ fresh juice anyhow... remove the cover and read the #'s stamped into the ring gear- it'll be tooth count- probably 3.07:1 or so for a C type diff ["43 14" would be stamped into the ring gear OD]. They always like to use a prime number for at least one of the tooth counts.
The faux wood steering wheel is pretty rare, nice to see. Same PN was in fact used on Corvettes, and that's how I found my perfect one- years ago, when you could see bidders' name and contact them via ePay, I bid on a 'vette wheel, did not win, but got a note from a 3rd party with one stashed in the basement, and was I interested? The steering wheel and shifter **** should be faux [plastic] wood. The lock ***** are cheesy aftermarket units, probably real wood.
As with all Canadian built 68-9's, your final drive is Chevy [C-] type. Your cowl tag has "344" body style- Lansing built '68 442's did NOT. If you can grab a close nice pic of that I would appreciate it- I collect info like that. Can you post pix or text of the POPlate info? GM of Canada may well have extensive documentation on this car's original configuration.
It looks like an original master cylinder- DO NOT turn it in for a core! Did you say 4-piston disk brakes? Rare as hell and much like Corvette calipers.
Air cleaner looks like the correct OG unit, and HOLY COW IT STILL HAS THE HOT AIR STOVE PARTS. And, it still has the steel PCV tube in the LH side also. It looks like she does NOT have HD cooling - can you spot the water pump ID [RH outlet boss] or the 6-digit casting ID on the inlet runner? Pulley ID codes readable?
It appears to not have heavy duty cooling. Yes, your engine ID is the correct "G" 400. The VIN stamp will probably match your VIN - about 2 fingers below the "C" found on the front of the LH head, on the vertical wall about 1/2 x 2" machined onto the block. It will be absent the "4487" part but otherwise will match the VIN tag. Ditto for the Auto trans - OG tag on RH side, and VIN stamp on LH side, just above the pan gasket, in the cast textured part of the housing. About midway fore-aft in the pan area.
one of your codes is probably the RARE TRIM I see between side windows and headliner - I have only seen this once or twice before, one was a car up north which I just refound a couple weeks ago- and it is a sport coupe I think. Not super exciting, but still a -rare- feature.
Dash stripe looks correct.
The "2-1-5" I believe was basically 5 columns off the Hollerith type Build Sheet Card, so various options would be called out by populating each column with a particular digit- for example, and this part I am just making up, so don't quote this- if you had HD brakes column 1 might be "1"; if you got power DISK brakes instead it would instead be a "2" - various other combinations would lead to [nothing or a dash as you wrote] or 3 or 4 or etc. Same with cooling options in some other column, lighting options in another column, etc.
More photos! Get the rear end ratio by counting turns, or... you know it needs inspection/ fresh juice anyhow... remove the cover and read the #'s stamped into the ring gear- it'll be tooth count- probably 3.07:1 or so for a C type diff ["43 14" would be stamped into the ring gear OD]. They always like to use a prime number for at least one of the tooth counts.
Last edited by Octania; November 18th, 2012 at 10:29 AM.
#20
The picture of the dash stripe is not very clear but it appears the wider stripe is to the inside and the thinner stripe to the outside. The pictures on ROP of an original dash stripe shows the opposite. Would it be possible to get a close up clear picture of the dash stripe in this car? Thanks much.
#21
Judging by how 'most everything else is correct, down to the ALWAYS missing hot air and PCV tube... I'd say the dash stripe, if present, is correct. Now, if the factory did it different on this car, THAT would be great to document.... sure, let's see a good well lit and focused pic of that stripe, especially at say the end.
#22
Judging by how 'most everything else is correct, down to the ALWAYS missing hot air and PCV tube... I'd say the dash stripe, if present, is correct. Now, if the factory did it different on this car, THAT would be great to document.... sure, let's see a good well lit and focused pic of that stripe, especially at say the end.
#32
Wow, thanks for all the photos. I see mostly Lansing built Body Tags, it's great to get some examples of the other varieties.
a 1/10 inch graduated steel rule in the stripe pic would help, but I won't complain. I see the clip that holds the pcv filter in the air cleaner is upside down- minor, minor detail. Great score, nice car to resurrect.
Can you maybe set your shutter to 1/400 second or better, for less blurry, and make sure the camera is on Macro for close shots. That, and brace your hands against a nearby stable object. Use more light as needed to get a good exposure.
Ah, I see that has since been taken care of.
On the POP [interesting half French version] I see 8243162 & T4. Near that should be [under the rust] "OG_____" which is your trans code and exact trans number on its plate of which you have a photo. The T4 should be the rear end code, others probably have that info handy, or see the Chassis Service Manual via WildAboutCars.com... and 8243162 would be your exact Engine Unit Number, which will be stamped into the oil fill tube...
DANG I wish my '68 W30's POP would show up... I have somebody's '68 H/O POP...
You have the dash assembly out already, really? Fast work. No longer "unmolested" eh?
I noted that the VIN rivets, which appear untouched, are put in up from underneath. I can't remember if Lansing cars are done that way or from above.
a 1/10 inch graduated steel rule in the stripe pic would help, but I won't complain. I see the clip that holds the pcv filter in the air cleaner is upside down- minor, minor detail. Great score, nice car to resurrect.
Can you maybe set your shutter to 1/400 second or better, for less blurry, and make sure the camera is on Macro for close shots. That, and brace your hands against a nearby stable object. Use more light as needed to get a good exposure.
Ah, I see that has since been taken care of.
On the POP [interesting half French version] I see 8243162 & T4. Near that should be [under the rust] "OG_____" which is your trans code and exact trans number on its plate of which you have a photo. The T4 should be the rear end code, others probably have that info handy, or see the Chassis Service Manual via WildAboutCars.com... and 8243162 would be your exact Engine Unit Number, which will be stamped into the oil fill tube...
DANG I wish my '68 W30's POP would show up... I have somebody's '68 H/O POP...
You have the dash assembly out already, really? Fast work. No longer "unmolested" eh?
I noted that the VIN rivets, which appear untouched, are put in up from underneath. I can't remember if Lansing cars are done that way or from above.
Last edited by Octania; November 18th, 2012 at 04:35 PM.
#33
#35
Could only see last 4 digits of vin on engine plate...1438...
trans matches protect o plate numbers OG 68 8383
The driveshaft turns 4.5 times to 3 rotations of wheel I will take cover off tomorow and get some numbers
The RH outlet boss read 38*783
*O3* I will recheck that again as well as pulley and tranmission numbers
Ted
trans matches protect o plate numbers OG 68 8383
The driveshaft turns 4.5 times to 3 rotations of wheel I will take cover off tomorow and get some numbers
The RH outlet boss read 38*783
*O3* I will recheck that again as well as pulley and tranmission numbers
Ted
#37
Wow, thanks for all the photos. I see mostly Lansing built Body Tags, it's great to get some examples of the other varieties.
a 1/10 inch graduated steel rule in the stripe pic would help, but I won't complain. I see the clip that holds the pcv filter in the air cleaner is upside down- minor, minor detail. Great score, nice car to resurrect.
Can you maybe set your shutter to 1/400 second or better, for less blurry, and make sure the camera is on Macro for close shots. That, and brace your hands against a nearby stable object. Use more light as needed to get a good exposure.
Ah, I see that has since been taken care of.
On the POP [interesting half French version] I see 8243162 & T4. Near that should be [under the rust] "OG_____" which is your trans code and exact trans number on its plate of which you have a photo. The T4 should be the rear end code, others probably have that info handy, or see the Chassis Service Manual via WildAboutCars.com... and 8243162 would be your exact Engine Unit Number, which will be stamped into the oil fill tube...
DANG I wish my '68 W30's POP would show up... I have somebody's '68 H/O POP...
You have the dash assembly out already, really? Fast work. No longer "unmolested" eh?
I noted that the VIN rivets, which appear untouched, are put in up from underneath. I can't remember if Lansing cars are done that way or from above.
a 1/10 inch graduated steel rule in the stripe pic would help, but I won't complain. I see the clip that holds the pcv filter in the air cleaner is upside down- minor, minor detail. Great score, nice car to resurrect.
Can you maybe set your shutter to 1/400 second or better, for less blurry, and make sure the camera is on Macro for close shots. That, and brace your hands against a nearby stable object. Use more light as needed to get a good exposure.
Ah, I see that has since been taken care of.
On the POP [interesting half French version] I see 8243162 & T4. Near that should be [under the rust] "OG_____" which is your trans code and exact trans number on its plate of which you have a photo. The T4 should be the rear end code, others probably have that info handy, or see the Chassis Service Manual via WildAboutCars.com... and 8243162 would be your exact Engine Unit Number, which will be stamped into the oil fill tube...
DANG I wish my '68 W30's POP would show up... I have somebody's '68 H/O POP...
You have the dash assembly out already, really? Fast work. No longer "unmolested" eh?
I noted that the VIN rivets, which appear untouched, are put in up from underneath. I can't remember if Lansing cars are done that way or from above.
And it is the same # on the oil filler tube.
Are you specifcally interested in the W30 POP?
this car will be restored to original,maybe not a 1, but as close as time and $ will allow.
So, based on what you guys have seen so far , is this a matching numbers car?What else should I be looking for?build sheet under tank etc,rear end numbers?
Thanks,
Ted
#39
As of this minute, I have no idea! What I would like to do is a complete off frame resto. If all numbers match up , and the car is matching beyond a doubt, then I will. But I will have to do some # crunching!
Ted
Prob should start a build thread, because I realistically know I will restore it
Ted
Ted
Prob should start a build thread, because I realistically know I will restore it
Ted