kevin.horton

And I got very useful information from you all, THANK YOU very much! OK, here's another that probably won't bring as many responses...traditional oil, or synthetic? I just had this motor rebuilt, has a mild cam and lifters in it, and I am currently going through the first 1,000 mile break in period. My question is, can I or is it advisable to change out to synthetic oil after your first oil change? I plan on changing the oil again after the first 1,000 miles (I baby this car), but should I move to a synthetic, or would that be a bad decision? I don't know much about the synthetics and their quality and/or lack thereof. And if this latest can of worms generates some good night crawlers, we can have a fish fry with good 'ol channel cat and get the Olds world together. Thanks for any input.

OldsManNJ

My engine builder told me to run the break in oil he put in it for 50 miles - change it out to a non synthetic - then change that at 1000-1500 miles - at that point he said it would be OK to run a full synthetic. I am sure that is just one mechanics opinion - but you asked!

Nilsson

This topic is a bag of snakes.

Oh, and stay away from diesel oils if recommended, that is all I have to say.

GAOldsman

I use conventional oil with a good additive like Z-max or equivalent after break in period and change my oil filter and oil every 3-4,000 miles religiously. I use the additive once a year. If I could afford it I would probably use Royal Purple Synthetic http://www.royalpurple.com/

nonhog

Its an interesting topic. I'm some time (and money) away from having my 455 running. No decision on what I'll run in that yet. In my DD 08 Silverado I run Mobil 1. Don't feel I need to, just something I feel good about.
I've read many articles about sheer, temp, lubricity etc. etc. and find myself in my head saying "really?" "Wow" "Oh" Seeing how much better brand "A" is that brand "R" and that just synthetics vs. synthetics.
Then I re read the article and replace my "Oh wow" with "So?"

Real world proof of better MPG (slight)(none for me)
Real world proof of better performance (slight)(none for me,does seem to run a tad smoother in very cold weather at start up)
Real world proof of better longevity? (pretty hard to prove)

My thoughts are synthetics are better but not by big amounts.

RAMBOW

Buy a good "off road" racing oil... There are quite a few available now, Brad Penn is what I run, i think summit even has one under their house brand.

These off road rated oils have more ZDDP in them than modern oils, which is necessary for the older cars Flat tappet cams.

Can you get by without it? sure, probably- but i'll happily throw down some extra $$ for good oil to avoid a cam going flat during breakin.

Bill in NC

X2!!!! Make sure you get an oil that has ZDDP in it! Rotella no longer has the same amount that it had years ago when everyone thought that Rotella was the answer. Diesel oil also do not have the anti-foaming agents needed to turn any kind of rpm's. Make sure you use a cam break-in additive for your break-in (I've always used Comp Cams brand break-in additive).

I'm a Valvoline lover, and last year when AutoZone had Valvoline race oils 50% off, I bought 5 cases.

Don't overlook the filter either. Wix racing, NAPA gold, or K&N! Don't loose your new engine to a FRAM!

Bayou Olds

Use conventional oil for break in, with cam lube. If you want to switch to synthetic after that, go ahead. But remember flat tappet cams REQUIRE zinc. Most conventional oils have none...EPA thing many years ago. Either find an oil with zinc or add it to whatever oil you use at each change.

dhoff

The Pennzoil rep told me years ago to not run racing oil in a regular street car, he said it was made to run for a race and then change out, and seemed to think it was not for extended usage. I am not sure what he was basing that on. Any thoughts?

blueRAYwhale

i'd use 10 W 40, like castrol or something in a green or yellow bottle, maybe white. put some of that STP stuff in there with that Z additive they took out a few years ago, maybe for the first 500 miles. then just use the same ol 10 w 40 that costs like 3.00 a qt. change the oil about every 3000 mi. and the filter every 6000. don't use synth. oil because it's just a waste of money in a car like that cuz you ain't gonna drive it 25,000 mi. a year. tossin out 35.00 worth of oil every four months or so will get old fast. anyways clean oil is better than none at all. i have a '76 cutlass with a 455, i don't drive it much, maybe 300 mi. a year, it didn't start out that way but gas at 4.00 a gallon made it like that. every spring i drain the oil out of it and put that oil in my '79 buick, kinda like recyclin. i've been doing this for awhile and everythings been going fine. buicks got like 280,000 mi. on the 350 buick motor. keep in mind i'm the kinda guy who goes to pick-n-pull and takes clean oil filters off caddys and reuses em, go figure.

kevin.horton

OK all, thank you so far for your responses...I have ordered a bottle of the comp cams break in additive. No local dealers carry it, is there someone besides JEGS or Summit that carries it? AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts don't carry it.

Bill in NC

My local AutoZone manager will order it for me if I ask for it, but usually I just stop by my nearest speed shop when I need it.

Bill in NC

kevin.horton

OK, thanks much Bill. - kph

RAMBOW

you can go to your local GM dealers parts counter and buy EOS additive. its better then the comp cams break in lube.

As far as the Racing oil- its considered for offroad use only because of the EPA regs regarding the zinc additives, not because of how long it lasts before needing ot be changed.

google OIL ZDDP CONTENT and you can read for days about it.

snowballs442

Opened a can of worms???Yea I think you did. I am not even going to answer this question. But if I did I would say to go ahead and change if thats what you want. On a new engine that would be a good idea. On a older rebuild...no

dc2x4drvr

Joe Gibbs HR 1 10-50 oil, Wix filter. I cut the filter apart at every change to check for trash.

442scotty

I have about 150 miles since the breakin on my new motor...just started using Joe gibbs synthetic 5/30 with the additive. Once place sells the edelbrock stuff and the speed shop I usually go to uses Joe Gibb...Nice to have choices

Bayou Olds

Remember the zinc additive too. Put it in with every oil change. There are several brands out there, ZDDPlus, Lucas, I think even Edelbrock has one now. Zinc is a necessary (for flat tappet cams) metal to metal lubricant that was removed from most oils, but it also provides ring to cylinder wall protection too. Worth the extra few cents to protect 5k in engine.

coltsneckbob

I run with Brad Penn, but my car has 43,000 original miles. During the summer, which is only time I drive it, I use 20-50. I have heard from several mechanics over the years that on an older engine rebuild don't use synthetic. I think the reason is obvious - the synthetic is "too good" and an engine does need to "wear parts in" a bit (e.g. rings need to seat tight).

I used to throw STP into my engines (like 30+ years ago), but won't add a thing to my oil nowadays. After using that STP crap for a few months I opened up the engine to do some valve work and couldn't believe how gunked up it got with that STP junk. Why do you think new car manufactures tell you that you will void the warranty if you add oil additives. I also would buy oil with the zinc in it......don't use an additive. I am not an expert on this, but I do have to assume that oil made with the additive blended in during manufacture has the correct proportions and most importantly does not require the engine itself to blend it.