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I have a 1968 442 with a 455 engine. Unfortunately, the head is cracked at the exhaust port. Its an iron cast with J heads (411783) on a 396021F block. (I apologise if this seems redundant but I'm from the U.K and know very little about engines.) What would you recommend as a replacement? I have been recommended the Elderbrock Performer RPM 60519. Is this right?
Unless you want a ton of expense, stick with factory castings. I would try and find G or GA heads as those are much better castings then the J heads and are setup from the factory to run unleaded fuel.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I realize that shipping heavy parts like this to the UK (which part are you located in?) can be pricey. Check this link - Bob Kelso Retirement sale
He has a set of 1971 G heads in his post for $100. They are cores
If you want to buy locally in the UK, do your parts stores have to order the parts in from off shore?
Last edited by Allan R; August 17th, 2018 at 06:19 AM.
I realize that shipping heavy parts like this to the UK (which part are you located in?) can be pricey. Check this link - Bob Kelso Retirement sale
He has a set of 1971 F heads in his post for $100. They are cores
If you want to buy locally in the UK, do your parts stores have to order the parts in from off shore?
If they are F heads they would be 1970 and not set up for unleaded fuel.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by Raffi
Thank you so much for your help.
Should I stay away from the Elderbrock Performer RPM 60519 -the guys at Summit said it would work?
Of course they will work, and they're aluminum which isn't as heavy as cast iron. Better machined too.
What's your budget? At almost $US1150 just for the heads, not counting import tax and shipping I think you'd be far better going with a stock head and having it rebuilt as needed unless you're planning to race the car, then you'll likely want to change the cam, pistons, and rockers. The 68 you have obviously doesn't have the original engine so whatever changes you do the the 455 won't matter too much. It all comes down to how much $$$ you have to spend and the time to do it.
Just my opinion but 990 € is steep for those heads. Then again, it may be ok for you if you're just looking for something to bolt on already built.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Raffi, did you check that link I posted to the G heads Bob Kelso has? For $100 and a rebuild you'd be ahead of the game. You can likely have them rebuilt in the US and shipped to you in the UK or have them rebuilt when you get them. You wouldn't have to change anything.
Adapting is not required, Olds big block heads all interchange. What is meant by rebuilt is the valves and valve seats ground and valve guides checked and replaced if necessary. This is pretty standard stuff for any automotive machine shop to perform. Personally, I would go with a good set of iron heads rather than spend the money on the aluminums unless you are looking for a high performance rebuild of your current engine.
Originally Posted by Raffi
Hi Allan,
I have messaged him to see if they are still available.
When you say rebuilt - does that mean adapted to fit what I have? Again, apologies for my ignorance.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
^^^What Boiler said. The G heads are simply from 1971 production. They have induction hardened exhaust ports. The J heads have induction hardened intake and exhaust ports. If the G heads are in really decent core condition it shouldn't cost all that much to have them rebuilt. When the machine shop is doing the rebuild they should magnflux the head to make sure there aren't any cracks. If they are good cores the decks shouldn't need machining, just a clean up. Pretty standard stuff at a good shop. They will install new valves (faster than cleaning old ones) and lap them, keepers, springs (if needed), and valve seals.
Should I stay away from the Elderbrock Performer RPM 60519 -the guys at Summit said it would work?
The Edelbrock heads are not a bolt on and go proposition. You would need to get new pushrods (after measuring for them), rocker arms and guide plates. Then you would have an adjustable valve train where the stock heads do not. That is not a bad thing, but it adds to the complexity of the system. If you want bolt on and go then just stick with the factory iron heads. The G heads will work as a direct swap and there is nothing special that will need to be done to make them work.
Unless you can find some ready to go cheap iron heads, I’d go aftermarket every time. Consider the cost to PROPERLY rebuild iron heads, springs, valve guides, valves,exhaust seats, milling, etc it’s not hard to get close to the price of aftermarket. Then consider the added 50-60hp (probably closer to 75 when replacing junk J heads!) it’s a no brainer. The cost to add 50 hp with no trade off in drivability is hard to do for 1000 bucks. Just my opinion
Last edited by matt69olds; August 17th, 2018 at 08:12 PM.
Of course they will work, and they're aluminum which isn't as heavy as cast iron. Better machined too.
What's your budget? At almost $US1150 just for the heads, not counting import tax and shipping I think you'd be far better going with a stock head and having it rebuilt as needed unless you're planning to race the car, then you'll likely want to change the cam, pistons, and rockers. The 68 you have obviously doesn't have the original engine so whatever changes you do the the 455 won't matter too much. It all comes down to how much $$$ you have to spend and the time to do it.
Just my opinion but 990 € is steep for those heads. Then again, it may be ok for you if you're just looking for something to bolt on already built.
Hi,
I have asked Bob about the G Heads and we're looking into shipping. Should I totally discount the other heads I posted - the non brand heads? Apparently, they are cast from virgin A356 and are heat treated to T6 specs??
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Your call on the others, but they are incredibly expensive,and as noted by others, they are not direct bolt on, whereas the G heads are. Even if the G heads cost a lot to ship, they're going to be easier to replace on your engine and much less expensive overall.
Hi,
I have asked Bob about the G Heads and we're looking into shipping. Should I totally discount the other heads I posted - the non brand heads? Apparently, they are cast from virgin A356 and are heat treated to T6 specs??
Bernard Mondello, uses the same heads as Olds Rocket Parts, except he uses quality parts, proper machining and assembly. Buying out of box assembled Speedmaster/Procomp heads is a crap shoot, there is a reason they cost less. Benard's ready to go Procomp heads are still much cheaper than Performer RPM heads.
August 16th, 2018, 02:31 PM
