Hello from Los Angeles California
July 8th, 2018, 11:35 PM
#1
O'smobile
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 336
Hello from Los Angeles California
Hello from SoCal. Long time gearhead, first time forum member. I've had a few cars but this 68 Cutlass S is my passion right now. My plan is to build it as a mild street rod for weekend bruising.
It was a rescue from the scrap yard in 2003. A 2 bbl. 350, 3 spd. manual, black on black. The floor console and shifter were gone and the rest was unrestored. All the floors were rotted from the glass leaks front and rear.
Replaced or repaired:
- Windshield channels welded up and glass resealed
- Floor patches welded in
- Replaced front bumper
- Rechromed rear bumper
- Replaced front grill
- Replaced headlight surrounds (used oem)
- Replaced all rubber seals for doors, hood, and trunk
- Repaired ignition and wiper switches
All this because I wrecked my cherry '69 4-door. It was a 2bbl, auto daily driver I got from an original owner. It was a green on green Cutlass S with 44k when I got it in 1994. I put 54k on it in 10 years. I made suspension upgrades but it was all factory OEM. One day I punched it on a green and someone came sailing though and whacked the front. I got the 68 because it had good sheet metal and needed everything the 69 had.
Cool original parts found:
So many cars I see 'restored' and it's all aftermarket under the hood so I really appreciate the little things.
- Air cleaner had metal Rocket sticker and the little chrome trim piece that goes under the butter fly nut
- Heat riser tube to air cleaner
- 3 speed Muncie Trans. with reverse light switch and wiring harness.
- AM/FM radio including *****
- Back speaker with blue wire front to back
- Horn button
- Starter brace
- metal vacuum line from manifold to brake booster
Cool unoriginal stuff found: AC/DC cassette of Back in Black
Enhancements installed:
- Coolant catch can
- Halogen headlamps
- Polyurethane bushings for A-arms, rear 4-link, front sway bar and end links
- Moog ball joints
- Front sway bar 1-1/8 inch
- Rear sway bar
- Aluminum differential cover
- Boxed rear control arms
- Aluminum brake drums (from Buick)
- Front disc (single piston) brakes with master and prop. valve
- Bilstein Shocks
- Valve cover vapor catch can
- K&N air filter
- Bilstein Shocks
- Rebuilt M20 with Hurst Competition Plus shifter
- 11-inch McLoed semi-metallic clutch with Hays steel flywheel
- H.E.I. Distributor with 12v junction block
- Sun Mini tachometer (speedo is busted so this helps me gauge my speed)
- Power steering cooler
- Hooker full-length exhaust headers with 1-5/8 inch primary
- Heat shield added to starter wires
- Flow Master dual 2-1/4 inch exhaust with series 50 Delta Flow mufflers
- 17x8 inch steel wheels with 245/45/17's (to get more tire options)
Next up in the near future:
- Install rebuilt 350. I found another engine which included an iron 4-bbl intake and 4MV. I then took it to be bored .030. We added forged aluminum flat top pistons, Edelbrock Performer intake, heavy duty factory rockers, enlarged stainless steel valves and a Lunati W-31 Factory Performance cam. Aftermarket larger balancer and Hays steel flywheel were all balanced together with the crank. Machine work and assembly were done at Vellio's in Lawndale, California. I just painted it gold and pulled the original engine. It's all sitting in my driveway waiting to be reassembled.
- Restore dash; pad is to be replaced with a nice used one I cleaned and re-dyed; it's all apart on a table
- Rebuild 4MV; Rochester from a 70 Cutlass. Since the numbers checked out I think it will work nicely. I just have to figure out the choke since the 7111 Edelbrock has no choke provision. I think I will get the electric choke conversion kit.
- Interior installed. I have the panels but I need the headliner
- Thinking about replacing my original 4 blade fan and try to get it more efficient without looking aftermarket. I am considering a used factory 6 blade with a viscous clutch.
One of these days:
- Seats with headrests and lateral support
- Rear disc brakes
- 12:1 steering box
- roll cage
- aluminum driveshaft with large u-joints and safety loop
My approach has been to get the car to handle and stop as good as possible. I don't know very much and have great respect to the engineers at GM. I'm not into chrome, sound systems, or tinted glass. My only real weakness is for new tires and brakes. =D
It was a rescue from the scrap yard in 2003. A 2 bbl. 350, 3 spd. manual, black on black. The floor console and shifter were gone and the rest was unrestored. All the floors were rotted from the glass leaks front and rear.
Replaced or repaired:
- Windshield channels welded up and glass resealed
- Floor patches welded in
- Replaced front bumper
- Rechromed rear bumper
- Replaced front grill
- Replaced headlight surrounds (used oem)
- Replaced all rubber seals for doors, hood, and trunk
- Repaired ignition and wiper switches
All this because I wrecked my cherry '69 4-door. It was a 2bbl, auto daily driver I got from an original owner. It was a green on green Cutlass S with 44k when I got it in 1994. I put 54k on it in 10 years. I made suspension upgrades but it was all factory OEM. One day I punched it on a green and someone came sailing though and whacked the front. I got the 68 because it had good sheet metal and needed everything the 69 had.
Cool original parts found:
So many cars I see 'restored' and it's all aftermarket under the hood so I really appreciate the little things.
- Air cleaner had metal Rocket sticker and the little chrome trim piece that goes under the butter fly nut
- Heat riser tube to air cleaner
- 3 speed Muncie Trans. with reverse light switch and wiring harness.
- AM/FM radio including *****
- Back speaker with blue wire front to back
- Horn button
- Starter brace
- metal vacuum line from manifold to brake booster
Cool unoriginal stuff found: AC/DC cassette of Back in Black
Enhancements installed:
- Coolant catch can
- Halogen headlamps
- Polyurethane bushings for A-arms, rear 4-link, front sway bar and end links
- Moog ball joints
- Front sway bar 1-1/8 inch
- Rear sway bar
- Aluminum differential cover
- Boxed rear control arms
- Aluminum brake drums (from Buick)
- Front disc (single piston) brakes with master and prop. valve
- Bilstein Shocks
- Valve cover vapor catch can
- K&N air filter
- Bilstein Shocks
- Rebuilt M20 with Hurst Competition Plus shifter
- 11-inch McLoed semi-metallic clutch with Hays steel flywheel
- H.E.I. Distributor with 12v junction block
- Sun Mini tachometer (speedo is busted so this helps me gauge my speed)
- Power steering cooler
- Hooker full-length exhaust headers with 1-5/8 inch primary
- Heat shield added to starter wires
- Flow Master dual 2-1/4 inch exhaust with series 50 Delta Flow mufflers
- 17x8 inch steel wheels with 245/45/17's (to get more tire options)
Next up in the near future:
- Install rebuilt 350. I found another engine which included an iron 4-bbl intake and 4MV. I then took it to be bored .030. We added forged aluminum flat top pistons, Edelbrock Performer intake, heavy duty factory rockers, enlarged stainless steel valves and a Lunati W-31 Factory Performance cam. Aftermarket larger balancer and Hays steel flywheel were all balanced together with the crank. Machine work and assembly were done at Vellio's in Lawndale, California. I just painted it gold and pulled the original engine. It's all sitting in my driveway waiting to be reassembled.
- Restore dash; pad is to be replaced with a nice used one I cleaned and re-dyed; it's all apart on a table
- Rebuild 4MV; Rochester from a 70 Cutlass. Since the numbers checked out I think it will work nicely. I just have to figure out the choke since the 7111 Edelbrock has no choke provision. I think I will get the electric choke conversion kit.
- Interior installed. I have the panels but I need the headliner
- Thinking about replacing my original 4 blade fan and try to get it more efficient without looking aftermarket. I am considering a used factory 6 blade with a viscous clutch.
One of these days:
- Seats with headrests and lateral support
- Rear disc brakes
- 12:1 steering box
- roll cage
- aluminum driveshaft with large u-joints and safety loop
My approach has been to get the car to handle and stop as good as possible. I don't know very much and have great respect to the engineers at GM. I'm not into chrome, sound systems, or tinted glass. My only real weakness is for new tires and brakes. =D
July 9th, 2018, 01:22 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: St. Paul Minnesota
Posts: 4,000
Just looked. You have some work ahead, but sounds like you have a good plan. There are a couple books on the Quadrajet. One is by Cliff Ruggles which is newer and the one I have is older by Doug Roe. Also, you may want to Google "Rich Powers Olds W-31". I believe the "untitled" link might be the one worth reading for details on a W-31. Good luck.
March 12th, 2019, 09:26 AM
#7
O'smobile
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 336
My buddy just put coil overs on his 1969 Malibu so I got his old parts. I now have CPP tubular A-arms and firmer, 1 inch lowering springs. It's what I've been wanting for a while to lessen body roll. I also got a lightly used aluminum radiator (thank you Tyler). I just need more time to work on it, soon I hope...
March 17th, 2019, 01:15 PM
#10
O'smobile
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 336
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
71 OLDS
Major Builds & Projects
341
August 16th, 2023 05:21 PM
kylem4711
Cars For Sale
5
December 19th, 2007 02:53 PM
