f-150 issue with electrical
#1
f-150 issue with electrical
Hello,
My truck for the last year has been having lots of problems.
Started out if the truck sat for a day, the battery would die.
**I replaced the door switches.
**Replaced the alternator and battery just because.
Then after acouple months, truck would loose all power intermittently.
Like run into a store, come out truck wont start. Put the battery charger on, it would fire rite up.
When the above would happen, the battery is 12v.
The trucks ignition would just click, like the battery is completely dead.
**Cleaned all grounds, checked connectors.
Now, it seems like im at square one.
If the truck sits for a day, its dead.
**But now, while driving intermittently all the interior power will shut off and on.
The truck still drives.
When the power comes back, the truck drives like the computer is "learning" (like when you re-set the computer).
IS there hidden grounds for the PCM?
Do i need a new PCM?
Thats my only next guess...
Thanks
My truck for the last year has been having lots of problems.
Started out if the truck sat for a day, the battery would die.
**I replaced the door switches.
**Replaced the alternator and battery just because.
Then after acouple months, truck would loose all power intermittently.
Like run into a store, come out truck wont start. Put the battery charger on, it would fire rite up.
When the above would happen, the battery is 12v.
The trucks ignition would just click, like the battery is completely dead.
**Cleaned all grounds, checked connectors.
Now, it seems like im at square one.
If the truck sits for a day, its dead.
**But now, while driving intermittently all the interior power will shut off and on.
The truck still drives.
When the power comes back, the truck drives like the computer is "learning" (like when you re-set the computer).
IS there hidden grounds for the PCM?
Do i need a new PCM?
Thats my only next guess...
Thanks
#4
4 Barrels of Laughs
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: I moved to pittsburgh so I can be near Primantis
Posts: 405
typically when I see the words 'let the xxx sit for a day and the battery will die' I tend to blame the alt diodes reverse conducting. As they heat it increases to a steady state of 5-8 amps usually. but you say you replaced that.
we need an inventory of parasites.
an ammeter of sufficient robustness between the battery cable and the battery with everything off, and look for a parasite - anything over say 200mA.
Once you see it, start yanking fuses (hood light off please)
and if that dont help, fusible link time. You will need the chassis electrical manual.
and....by any chance is the fuel pump still running, when the truck is off?
we need an inventory of parasites.
an ammeter of sufficient robustness between the battery cable and the battery with everything off, and look for a parasite - anything over say 200mA.
Once you see it, start yanking fuses (hood light off please)
and if that dont help, fusible link time. You will need the chassis electrical manual.
and....by any chance is the fuel pump still running, when the truck is off?
#6
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php
Post your Q ^^^here too^^^. In the F150 or electrical forums. Only in one or the other place not 2x.
How many miles on it?
Grounds Grounds Grounds. Do the below service to all secondary(large) battery cables from the battery through the starter solenoid down to the starter. Clean the small ones coming off the large ones attached to the body as well.
Remove cables, clean, Ohm out (for low resistance and replace is needed), tighten, spray battery protectant on all connections. Find the engine ground strap and do the same.
Bench test the starter.
Check charging voltage and alternator connections.
You live in the north east. Rust is likely under everything.
Do you have FCC cab lights? If so check for leaks. Could be getting behind the dash. Windshield too. Does the cab leak at all(carpet wet or musty?). If so look at the GEM module (If equipped) for evidence of water staining. Known problem but not sure the 2006s have a GEM? Think it went to a VSM module in 04. FTE site will answer that.
Regardless Now that we have the basics covered see if this fixes it. If not move to the deeper stuff if needed...like a voltage drop test....The FTE forum is as much help as this form is.
Post your Q ^^^here too^^^. In the F150 or electrical forums. Only in one or the other place not 2x.
How many miles on it?
Grounds Grounds Grounds. Do the below service to all secondary(large) battery cables from the battery through the starter solenoid down to the starter. Clean the small ones coming off the large ones attached to the body as well.
Remove cables, clean, Ohm out (for low resistance and replace is needed), tighten, spray battery protectant on all connections. Find the engine ground strap and do the same.
Bench test the starter.
Check charging voltage and alternator connections.
You live in the north east. Rust is likely under everything.
Do you have FCC cab lights? If so check for leaks. Could be getting behind the dash. Windshield too. Does the cab leak at all(carpet wet or musty?). If so look at the GEM module (If equipped) for evidence of water staining. Known problem but not sure the 2006s have a GEM? Think it went to a VSM module in 04. FTE site will answer that.
Regardless Now that we have the basics covered see if this fixes it. If not move to the deeper stuff if needed...like a voltage drop test....The FTE forum is as much help as this form is.
#8
4 Barrels of Laughs
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: I moved to pittsburgh so I can be near Primantis
Posts: 405
the short on the trailer plug is interesting....there is a fix/preventative medicine I have used on tow installations for decades -
on the 7 blade plug (pretty much standard for rvs and utility) the ground and the battery charge lines are at the bottom...if you get something in there conducting like water, moist dirt etc, you flow current.
What I do on all my installs (and I learned this from a friend who has an RV sales biz) is to rotate the socket 90* counter clockwise, so the cap 'door', 'lid' whatever, opens up to the drivers side. everything works just fine, but now gravity is your friend
on the 7 blade plug (pretty much standard for rvs and utility) the ground and the battery charge lines are at the bottom...if you get something in there conducting like water, moist dirt etc, you flow current.
What I do on all my installs (and I learned this from a friend who has an RV sales biz) is to rotate the socket 90* counter clockwise, so the cap 'door', 'lid' whatever, opens up to the drivers side. everything works just fine, but now gravity is your friend
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jpaulwhite
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August 21st, 2010 06:08 PM