Octania

so, this is the proper front fender emblem for the '68 H/O?

how many total, where on the car?

I am searching for more info using the usual search tools.




https://www.google.com/search?q=imag...gozxJcUQVL4%3D

1969w3155

According to the Fusick catalog, 3 were used, so one on each fender, the third on the trunk lid?

Octania

sure. Another on the glovebox lid then?

here is an interesting find, make your own, as many as you want:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HURST-OLDS-1...516e51&vxp=mtr

jozw30

If that's a plastic emblem it could be correct (doesn't look thick enough), the metal reproductions are terrible.

Looks like only half of a mold in that auction?

The glove box door has an embossed foil sticker.

69ho aurora

I had seen this as well as the 69-79 version dies also up for sale by the same seller, Don Hartman. Back in the 80s, he was the one initially selling H/O repro parts under 2 different company names. I think they were "Deez" and "A Little Different Ltd" or something like that. I'd have to pull out old JWOs to check. The 69-79 emblems he sold were very nice (better than the NOS ones I bought later). The set on my car (since 84) were from him (and presumably these dies). The 68 emblems he sold were not as thick as the originals so they were pretty easy to spot on a car...

I don't know if licensing did him in or what.

pogo69

Your correct...A little different was the name of the company I still have some hand written notes about questions, I think it was in West palm beach but not sure off the top of my head

Octania

Presumably the other half of the mold is a flat plate.

Or, if one wanted to make the '68 emblem thicker... a flat plate with a carefully located small depression. Guide pins to make sure they always align properly.

SO, this brings us to the real reason for this inquiry

Does anyone have handy the dimensions of the '68 H/O exterior emblems?
Including overall thickness and the depth of the external recessed part?

69ho aurora

Actually, as the outside edge of the emblems are tapered (at least the 69+ emblems are), you probably wouldn't be able to do the tweaking of the thickness in just the back plate (unless you wanted to do a lot of manual cleanup on every piece injected). I also had a 68 H/O when he first started selling these and my emblems were gone (the car had been de-badged and had the red wells painted black for insurance purposes), but had a friend with a car with original emblems. So I was very interested in these when they first came out. After seeing them on cars at National meets, it was obvious from a distance that they weren't original. I never did get proper measurements of real ones.

Before both of these came out, I was looking to make emblems for my '69 as they weren't available. I worked at a foundry that specialized in investment casting stainless steel. I used one of my original emblems, mounted it on a wax sprue, dipped it 6 or 7 times, had it autoclaved and then poured in 304 stainless. I got it cut off, and it was a pretty clean sample. I started cleaning it up a bit, but by then Don came out with his repros and I went with those. I still have that stainless emblem somewhere... Would have been cool to get it polished and finished properly.

jwsolds

I would use the plastic ones from Fusick. I believe I have an original '68 emblem and need to compare it with the two repops just to see how much different it is.


I very much disagree with what the guy with the nice '69 H/O said about Don's '69 and up emblem. I think it is the worst made of all the reproductions! It's smaller and the "S" looks like "Z". Who's going to pay big bucks for a die of an emblem that not same as original?


I've got several NOS now but when I redid my '73, couldn't find them so I restored original emblem before putting incorrect repop on it. That's just me, I rather use correct parts verse incorrect repos.

costpenn

Here's some pics of a original emblem off mine - car #184. The outside height of the rectangular border is 3/16", the border around the H is slightly taller at 1/4". These measurements are minus the adhesive strip shown on the back. The inside height of the background is 1/8" to the top of the ribs.

hurst68olds

The originals are still on my car, but most of the chrome is missing. I can get dimensions this evening. I sold a '68 H/O ~15 years ago with a set from A Little Different Ltd. I don't recall any differences. I purchased a set (3) "NOS" w/Doc Watson's blessing/authentication off eBay ~10 years ago & they are different than the ones on my car.

hurst68olds

Here's some comparisons between 3 originals on my car / 3 loose originals / 3 reproductions (SOLD as NOS ) ~10 years ago.


These reproductions are ~.020" thicker -probably the thickness of the chrome (top & bottom).
There is ~.007" of taper to allow the part to be released from the die.
The depth to the black surface is ~.065" original vs. ~.075" reproduction (again ~.010" for chrome).

hurst68olds

a few more & the dash embossed foil emblem "sticker"

83hurstguy

Sorry that I am late to the party, was out of town for a bit...

Good information here on the emblems, thanks for posting the details. I haven't gotten to my exterior emblems yet. My side ones are original on the car from what I can tell, though my decklid emblem is missing, so I'm going to have to figure something out there.

I do have a few things to add regarding dash decal comparisons. My '68 H/O dash trim + decal was in rough shape, so I picked up the H&H Classic Auto reproduction set, as well as the Don Hartman dash sticker (saler2 on ebay).

The H&H wood trim itself was fairly close, the decal printing scale is close to OEM, but it does not have the embossed "ribs" in the decal, which makes it quite a bit different. It's really a dead giveaway that makes them easy to spot.

The Hartman reproduction has the correct embossed "ribs", all the printing is pretty close, though there are minor discrepancies that you can tell when the decals are side by side. If you didn't have them next to each other, it would be hard to tell the difference. I'm happy with his decals.

Anyways, here's the pictures with the labels on them. Hope it helps somebody...