CLR to clean nasty bolts
August 12th, 2018, 10:58 AM
#1
Kyle
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 105
CLR to clean nasty bolts
I have my engine bolts (accessories mostly, no head or main or rod bolts) and they’re pretty nasty, worried about threading it in the condition they’re in. Can I just soak them in CLR for like 5 minutes each and just use wire brush to clean the threads? Or would this hurt the bolt structurally...?
August 12th, 2018, 11:49 AM
#3
Kyle
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 105
August 12th, 2018, 12:04 PM
#5
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
August 12th, 2018, 03:06 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: St. Paul Minnesota
Posts: 4,004
Wire wheeling them is probably the best. It cleans and shines them so you can spot dings and dinged threads. It also cleans them so they torque smoothly and properly. Make sure the tool rest is set very close to the wheel so you don't suck them out of your hands. For short bolts, use vise grips to hold them by the head.
August 12th, 2018, 06:56 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: KANSAS CITY, KS
Posts: 2,030
or just buy a cheap harbor freight tumbler..use the green pyramids and call it done, i sell about $2k+ in used bolts a year and they never touch a wire wheel..when they come out they are incredible, with all the striations and factory marks...plus..i run them overnight while i'm sleeping...it aint about the work, its about the results...really really good results with the tumbler..
dawn for the grease..vinegar and CLR for the rust..there is no way using a wire wheel will give the same results, ive been selling used fasteners for a decade..ive tried everything...tumbler is all i use..i have 3 for diff things..i like the vibratory tumbler the best..i even spent a bunch on a laboratory machine, its that impressive..of course the stuff i sell is resto stuff, people wanting OEM stuff..for a hot rod, i would still use a tumbler..its just too good and too easy, and no chance of hurting myself or others...
i use dawn dish soap and white vinegar for light rust and on tuff stuff CLR..
dawn for the grease..vinegar and CLR for the rust..there is no way using a wire wheel will give the same results, ive been selling used fasteners for a decade..ive tried everything...tumbler is all i use..i have 3 for diff things..i like the vibratory tumbler the best..i even spent a bunch on a laboratory machine, its that impressive..of course the stuff i sell is resto stuff, people wanting OEM stuff..for a hot rod, i would still use a tumbler..its just too good and too easy, and no chance of hurting myself or others...
i use dawn dish soap and white vinegar for light rust and on tuff stuff CLR..
August 12th, 2018, 08:19 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Norfolk, Va
Posts: 1,363
Using the right tool for the job. Read paragraph two for this particular discussion.
TOOLS
DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh, S---!"
SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race..
TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
SON OF A BITCH TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "Son of a bitch" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
TOOLS
DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh, S---!"
SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race..
TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
SON OF A BITCH TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "Son of a bitch" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
August 13th, 2018, 06:58 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: St. Paul Minnesota
Posts: 4,004
Yes, as Allan R says, leather gloves AND eye protection. 6" or 8" medium wire wheel. A light on the grinder helps (built in light or small trouble light).
August 14th, 2018, 04:17 AM
#16
Kyle
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 105
Using the right tool for the job. Read paragraph two for this particular discussion.
TOOLS
DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh, S---!"
SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race..
TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
SON OF A BITCH TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "Son of a bitch" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
TOOLS
DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh, S---!"
SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race..
TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
SON OF A BITCH TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "Son of a bitch" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
August 14th, 2018, 04:22 AM
#18
Kyle
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 105
or just buy a cheap harbor freight tumbler..use the green pyramids and call it done, i sell about $2k+ in used bolts a year and they never touch a wire wheel..when they come out they are incredible, with all the striations and factory marks...plus..i run them overnight while i'm sleeping...it aint about the work, its about the results...really really good results with the tumbler..
dawn for the grease..vinegar and CLR for the rust..there is no way using a wire wheel will give the same results, ive been selling used fasteners for a decade..ive tried everything...tumbler is all i use..i have 3 for diff things..i like the vibratory tumbler the best..i even spent a bunch on a laboratory machine, its that impressive..of course the stuff i sell is resto stuff, people wanting OEM stuff..for a hot rod, i would still use a tumbler..its just too good and too easy, and no chance of hurting myself or others...
i use dawn dish soap and white vinegar for light rust and on tuff stuff CLR..
dawn for the grease..vinegar and CLR for the rust..there is no way using a wire wheel will give the same results, ive been selling used fasteners for a decade..ive tried everything...tumbler is all i use..i have 3 for diff things..i like the vibratory tumbler the best..i even spent a bunch on a laboratory machine, its that impressive..of course the stuff i sell is resto stuff, people wanting OEM stuff..for a hot rod, i would still use a tumbler..its just too good and too easy, and no chance of hurting myself or others...
i use dawn dish soap and white vinegar for light rust and on tuff stuff CLR..
But you’re right, seems to be the safest route.
August 14th, 2018, 04:40 AM
#19
[QUOTE=87Brougham;1117243]
Make sure you have a good pair of gloves. That wire wheel will remove skin at a fast rate! A shield or safety glasses is a must. Adjust the guards and tool rest correctly. I/8" clearance. Even then the brush will grab a bolt. Never stand directly behind the wheel you are using. Use vice grips when you can to hold the fastener. Make sure the grinder is fastened securely to the bench.
). Safety first!
Make sure you have a good pair of gloves. That wire wheel will remove skin at a fast rate! A shield or safety glasses is a must. Adjust the guards and tool rest correctly. I/8" clearance. Even then the brush will grab a bolt. Never stand directly behind the wheel you are using. Use vice grips when you can to hold the fastener. Make sure the grinder is fastened securely to the bench.
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