Broke Bolt In Aluminum intake
#1
Broke Bolt In Aluminum intake
Any tricks to getting a broke bolt out of an aluminum intake?
First thought is weld a nut to the broke stud/ Heat the Aluminum surrounding the bolt and remove. This works for Cast Iron. Not sure if Al. will react the same.
Any advise before i jump in would be great.
THANKS
First thought is weld a nut to the broke stud/ Heat the Aluminum surrounding the bolt and remove. This works for Cast Iron. Not sure if Al. will react the same.
Any advise before i jump in would be great.
THANKS
#5
Easier to weld a nut on a aluminum intake than a iron intake (dislike materials won't stick to the intake)usually the heat from welding will loosen up the electrolysis corrosion that has taken place and the bolt will come outwith little problems.
For me I find drilling out a stud or bolt risky business. It's hard to keep a drill straight for the length of a intake bolt and when you do free up the intake you will still have to address the bolt stub left in engine, best to address the bolt while it is whole if you can... Your milage may differ...Tedd
For me I find drilling out a stud or bolt risky business. It's hard to keep a drill straight for the length of a intake bolt and when you do free up the intake you will still have to address the bolt stub left in engine, best to address the bolt while it is whole if you can... Your milage may differ...Tedd
#6
If your a good welder have the right equip. and a broken stud long enough that would be a go or center punch the broken stud use a GOOD broken bolt/stud extractor or ez-out brand with a soaking penetrant oil. key to this method is center drilling straight enough otherwise the aluminum threads will be damaged and you may need a heli-coil
#7
It is the two bolts that hold the Choke Tube thingly in the intake(W 31 Intake).
Drilling out scrares the hell out of me, need to be dead on with that method.
Never had any luck with an easy out.
I have done the "weld a nut on method" dozens of times with great success.
Was just concerned about the aluminum as a different factor than Cast iron
Drilling out scrares the hell out of me, need to be dead on with that method.
Never had any luck with an easy out.
I have done the "weld a nut on method" dozens of times with great success.
Was just concerned about the aluminum as a different factor than Cast iron
#8
It is the two bolts that hold the Choke Tube thingly in the intake(W 31 Intake).
Drilling out scrares the hell out of me, need to be dead on with that method.
Never had any luck with an easy out.
I have done the "weld a nut on method" dozens of times with great success.
Was just concerned about the aluminum as a different factor than Cast iron
Drilling out scrares the hell out of me, need to be dead on with that method.
Never had any luck with an easy out.
I have done the "weld a nut on method" dozens of times with great success.
Was just concerned about the aluminum as a different factor than Cast iron
#9
Without seeing exactly what you're dealing with,
since you have enough stud exposed above the hole
to weld a nut to it,
I'd think you have enough to grip with vise grips.
If so, I'd try that first and heat the area around the hole
to see if you can back it out.
since you have enough stud exposed above the hole
to weld a nut to it,
I'd think you have enough to grip with vise grips.
If so, I'd try that first and heat the area around the hole
to see if you can back it out.
#10
Take it to a machine shop and have them EDM it out... if the intakes worth saving and having the repair done right. You'll thank me and the machine shop. MAW have them check it for warp and glass bead blast it for you too...
If you have the finesse or seasoned touch... PB Blaster, LITTLE propane heat n ice quench (at least a few cycles of this). Then drill a centered hole and acquire both a square fluted extractor and reverse fluted stubby extractor sets, not harborjunk. Still will need the heat and PB while extracting. Sometimes the act of center punching is enough to jar the galvanic's lose. A small 1/4" or high qual air hammer set real low will do it too. The slapping action of the air hammer works miracles but this better performed via a well seasoned touch, need a high qual hammer.
Weld a nut on and use the pneumatic's is another route. Has to be a precision weld around aluminum which is tough...EDM my friend.
If you have the finesse or seasoned touch... PB Blaster, LITTLE propane heat n ice quench (at least a few cycles of this). Then drill a centered hole and acquire both a square fluted extractor and reverse fluted stubby extractor sets, not harborjunk. Still will need the heat and PB while extracting. Sometimes the act of center punching is enough to jar the galvanic's lose. A small 1/4" or high qual air hammer set real low will do it too. The slapping action of the air hammer works miracles but this better performed via a well seasoned touch, need a high qual hammer.
Weld a nut on and use the pneumatic's is another route. Has to be a precision weld around aluminum which is tough...EDM my friend.
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