oldrelics

I have a few questions:

1- where is the ign coil resistor supposed to be mounted?

2-checking ATF, run warm and check running?

3-converting to gm alt, will 62 up bracketry work?

oldcutlass

You may have to modify the mounting a bit to get the pulley to line up.

oldrelics

Where does the resistor wire run from?
I'm going to convert to electronic distributor and the kit says to eliminate the resistance.

oldcutlass

I'm not sure on yours. What you can do is use the resister wire to activate a 30a relay to supply a full 12v to your new setup. Or you can just cap the old wire and run a new switched 12v source.

oldrelics

So another question,
to time this 394 I see the two tabs and the mark on the balancer, the spec is 5 degrees, where is that on the two tabs?

oldcutlass

2 tabs or indentations? The line on the harmonic balance should line up with the second indentation on the tab. First is 0, second is 5, third is 10 deg BTDC.

MDchanic

Early sixties cars had a separate ballast resistor, I believe. It would be a ceramic thing on the firewall. I'm sure a '61 owner can chime in on this.

- Eric

justinj

Should be a resistor wire if everything's stock. I installed a ceramic one when I re-wired my '62 though.

justinj

If you don't have a factory service manual, join WildAboutCars.com (free) - you can download PDF's of the 61 manual on that site. It has this type of info, plus a wiring diagram.

SavedbyHim

I have a stock 61 super 88, resistor is mounted on the intake manifold, no resistor wire.

oldrelics

Thanks guys, I found no resistor on the intake and the coil wiring looks factory taped.

I tried to set dwell tonite but it kept sparking out the little window and shorting out when I stuck the little allen wrench in. It would just completely die out when I try and bring it to 30 from 25....

MDchanic

Hmmmm... That shouldn't happen.

Are you touching the Allen key against anything other than the screw head?

Ideally, you want to use one of those ball-headed Allen keys, or use a purpose-made GM points adjuster, so as not to place a lateral load on the adjusting screw, which will change the setting while you're setting it, so that it snaps back to a different setting when you remove the Allen key.

What sort of dwell meter are you using, and how are you connecting it?

Also, note that changing your dwell will change your timing (which is why you adjust your timing afterward), so that if your dwell is way off, setting it right may change your timing enough that the car won't run. Set your dwell part way, then readjust your timing, then re-set your dwell, then adjust your timing properly.



- Eric

oldrelics

Okay, I filed the points which then I could set the dwell and timing, I think a carb kit is next and some vacuum issues maybe.
The wire going to the coil is a type of cloth covered wire, resistor? I haven't found a ceramic block anywhere.

Is this a factory power brake booster/master cyl?





This vacuum mess at the back of the carb, factory?





How is the column removed from the steering box?

MDchanic

Ummmmmm... That hasn't really been considered to be a good idea since about 1951.

When you file them, you can alter the angle slightly, causing burning.
Also, modern points have a thin metallic plating that greatly extends life, and when you file them, it's gone.
Also, since filing removes the "mountain" on one point, but does not remove the "valley" on the other side, it can completely screw up the effective gap.

I'd put in another set.


Yes.


Hell no.


Nope.

- Eric

oldrelics

Yea, I was going to buy a new set, I was just trying this in the interim. BTW I have filed points on other vehicles with no
ill effects, prob just got lucky. Do you recognize the brake setup? What ever it came out of it mounts in the original bolt holes!

lsutigers93

Looks like someone upgraded to a dual MC from the old single...not a bad thing if done properly...

MDchanic

Looks like a dual M/C with a power booster from sometime in the eighties, but I can't say for sure.

- Eric

Summerof84

The vacuum setup, although not original, is correct. Some vacuum is supplied from the carb and the fuel pump supplies the rest. The booster/MC looks to be S10, which is exactly what I used on my '61 when installing the Scarebird discs conversion. My car has all the braking it needs, plus some now.