ClassicOldsmobile.com - Electrical

Instrument Basel

NinetyEight67 — Mon, 18 May 2026 16:31:49 GMT

Has anyone removed a dash on a 67 Ninety Eight olds if so what all needs to be done, I need to remove my speedometer I�m thinking there�s a problem in the printed circuit board. Thanks

Overcharging electrical system

72 Post — Sun, 17 May 2026 22:45:54 GMT

I have a 72 Cutlass stock 350. While I was driving today I kept smelling rotten eggs. When I got home I popped the hood and could hear the battery sizzling. I immediately removed it. Upon removal I did check the voltage and it was charged at 13.7v. I let it cool down a few hours, tested it and it was at 13.4v and installed it back in so I could check to see if it was overcharging. In fact it was and upon inspection I received a 17.8v reading. Shut down the car and once again disconnected the battery. My silly question for everyone is am I correct in thinking this is a voltage regulator issue and not the alternator itself since the regulator is external. Sorry for the question but I must say this is the first time I've ever run into this. Thanks, Mike.

Radio Antenna

Chuxter — Sat, 16 May 2026 17:48:18 GMT

I recently had a new windshield installed on my 70 Cutlass Supreme and the antenna plug wire on the windshield is so long it hits my chrome trim at the bottom of the windshield. Has anyone ever had this problem and what is the best way to fix this issue?

Vintage Air

Chuxter — Fri, 15 May 2026 02:59:02 GMT

I am putting vintage air in my 70 Cutlass Supreme. Can I do away with
my old fan relay and all the wiring that goes with it?

1970 442 In process of complete rewiring

70_455 — Mon, 11 May 2026 02:17:20 GMT

Hello

I tore out eall wiring in the engine bay (what a previous slop and chop job)and am looking to see if anyone has actual pictures of a clean engine bay where I can see exact routing, or if they can point out a post that would have it.
I have the Assembly manual but some stuff still better seen in actual photos.
Would anyone also know where to get clips that would hold the harness after it leaves those 3 fender clips holding everything down?

Thanks!

What is this plug on my 1988 oldsmobile delta 88 royale brougham.

KitsuneNoTikune — Sat, 09 May 2026 01:11:55 GMT

It's right next to the crankshaft position sensor.

70 Console wiring?

DocN — Fri, 08 May 2026 06:53:09 GMT

Anyone have a wiring diagram that shows the console wiring? I've seen this diagram but it just shows a hot feed off to the console somewhere.

I'm trying to adapt a 4-wire '70 console harness to a '72 3-wire pigtail. Both were bought before I knew the difference, and when I first got them, a superficial check suggested the only difference was the '70 included a ground of some form.

I have the parts to make the physical change- the plugs and contacts- but I want to triple-check a proper diagram before I go snapping everything into place.

Doc.

Dash panel

NinetyEight67 — Wed, 06 May 2026 22:34:08 GMT

Hi Everyone, I have an Olds 1967 98 and I�m having trouble finding the issue with my dash lights? I don�t have any, I check all fuses they all were ok, reach up and pulled 3 light out from around the speedometer and ran a bench test and they all lite up so now I�m stumped, any help would appreciated. Thanks

Hooking up radio

denf221 — Tue, 05 May 2026 12:46:55 GMT

Trying to hook up original, still have antenna in windshield. What is this plug, I assume it's radio related. Where is it supposed to go, what does it connect with. What do I look for under dash? Thanks

1970 442 front light harness clips or wire retainers

70_455 — Tue, 05 May 2026 12:27:31 GMT

Hello
What does everyone use in place of zip ties to secure the harness correctly? Ive tried looking for these 545249 clips but no luck..

Would anyone aldo know if more than the rear seat (lower kick and sil plate are off) would be need to removed to change the intermediate harness to the rear lights?

Thanks!

1966 Toronado headlight switch Interesting "find" and factory ERROR

preal — Sat, 02 May 2026 18:41:51 GMT

Well as mentioned in my blower relay/circuit breaker post I am getting my 1966 Toronado back on the road FINALLY after she's had a long nap due to the transmission losing reverse and third gear about 24 years ago. Since then I did drive it a few times over the years locally and I do start it and run all the accessories several times a year as well as oil changes, adding fresh gas etc. so it wasn't DEAD for 24 years. Anyway I rebuilt a headlight actuator years ago and finally installed it. Another issue I had along with the right headlight not popping open was that the headlights switch was VERY hard to pull out to turn on the headlights. I've been down this road before and know how to take it apart and clean it all up etc. Anyway I had a "good used" one in my spare parts bin that moved freely so I decided to just install that one.

Upon installing it no matter what way I put the three vac lines on I could NOT get the headlights to work properly!! After getting frustrated and spending way too much time I compared my original switch to the "good used one" It turns out that someone must have taken it apart and when they put the top part of the vacuum portion on the switch they installed it 180 degrees from where it should be! The hoses/lines ports should face the firewall NOT the back of the cluster. Ok so I gently separated the port part from housing and flipped it around and tested it again in the car. With all lines to color coded ports once again I could NOT get the headlights to function right. I could get them to OPEN but not close, or just drop till locks keep them partly open OR even do nothing! I then took vac portion apart agaIn, and went out to the car and studied it and with me holding that black rubber "block" with L shaped channel in it I was able to slide the block back and forth and eventually get the lights to pop open and close properly I then CAREFULLY keep everything oriented as it worked and put the vac part of switch back together and once again tried it. AT the point of almost pulling my hair out after all this it STILL didn't work right!!!!!!

I figured out that from the FACTORY the color of the ports are mislabeled! I have THREE switches and they are all like this They have the GREEN port (Headlight UP circuit) where the VAC line (yellow) should be and Vice versa! I thought MAYBE just MAYBE its not marked right???? and I was indeed correct! once I swapped the green hose where yellow was it all worked correctly!!!! So for anyone doing this job it's NOT YOU!!! It's whoever made that switch (Trico ???) RED port is correct and above that should be marked Yellow and be vac supply The Port that has nothing below it should be GREEN that is for headlight UP circuit. The headlights will NOT function properly if you install your hoses in the color coded way. I've since scraped off the green. and yellow dots and re-did them with Testor's model paint. Almost a dead match LOL So that the next care taker doesn't lose his mind if he/she has to swap out or fix the switch. AND YES I even checked to make sure the hoses that pass through the fire wall weren't accidentally switch from green to vacuum instead of Yellow for vac. My yellow strip had Vacuum. Live and learn! What should have been a 1/2 hour to hr job turned into several hours and a good amount of frustration!! Hope this helps someone with a 1966 as this is a ONE YEAR ONLY switch and Toronado ONLY

1970 442 Engine and Light Harness Connector ID

70_455 — Sat, 02 May 2026 04:40:01 GMT

Hello

Finally getting to Rewiring the engine Compartment in my 70 442 Convertible, AC car with Internally Regulated Alternator.
I bought the Harnesses from M&H and Id like to know if anyone can ID the two plugs pictured below.

The first picture is a short double tan pigtail pigtail right out of the harness and the second/third is a round connector black/tan stripe and Green/white stripe.

Lastly, in the 4th pic, the Wiper motor wires look as if the light blue wire is a bit short and will make a bulged loop when connected. Would anyone know if this is is correct or did they cut the light blue wire short and they should all be the same length?
Thanks!

Bulbs for the optional interior lamps?

matt69olds — Fri, 01 May 2026 21:14:04 GMT

Specifically, the ones that are bolted to the bottom of the dash on the left and right. I technically need them for my 81 GMC, they are the same setup. None of the parts stores have a listing, and I can�t read the numbers on the base of the one bulb I have. I found a few bulbs that appear to have the same base.

Thanks

'66 Toronado Help needed with a Circuit Breaker that mounts on blower reply.

preal — Fri, 01 May 2026 18:04:11 GMT

Hi All
I'm new to this site though not new to 1966 Toronado ownership! I have owned my '66 Deluxe since 1984!!!! Anyway I am getting things that were done half assed years ago corrected NOW. One of them is a circuit breaker that is mounted with the blower relay. This is the not so common one with the LONG bracket coming off of it with 2 mounting holes. So here's my question .... On the back of the stock Alternator the BAT wire I am 99% sure ran to this circuit breaker then from there to the power "junction' Is this correct??? If not what and where does this circuit breaker go to and where does the BAT wire go to?? I have found conflicting into on this. I also see some sources list it as a 60 AMP CB while others say it uses a 30 AMP CB. Any help would be GREAT!!!! Thanks kindly. SIde note mine is Tropic Turquoise. manual A/C, Flairstat, corner lamps, deluxe interior, power 6 way seat, trunk, cruise, antenna and locks. I think Im only missing rear defog, passenger recliner, and headrests. and Comfortron to have ALL options.

why is 70-72 rallye fuel gauge pod brake lamp staying lit

70sgeek — Fri, 01 May 2026 02:38:07 GMT

Installed a new repro rallye fuel gauge pod in my '72 CS and the brake warning lamp won't go out with the car running. It flickers a slight bit when I move the emergency brake pedal a bit (not enough to engage it) but it won't go out. No underlying brake fluid or pressure issues, the factory pod it replaces didn't have this lamp issue.

I followed the factory diagram to rewire the pod connector for it and everything else works properly in all other respects.

Is is possible the gauge has a ground or lamp socket issue - OR could it really be signaling a brake issue that didn't trigger the factory pod?