revrory12

I lost the key I had for my 69 delta 88. I have a new cyl lock but can not remove the old one because it is in the lock position and needs to be in the RUN position. I plan to drive a screwdriver into it to break it. Any help or ideas.

MDchanic

I ASSume that this is the ignition lock, and I believe that '69 was a column lock, and not a dashboard switch, so all you have to do is pull the steering wheel, remove the dust cover, remove the lock plate (easier with a $15 tool that depresses the spring for you, but possible with a couple of screwdrivers and some muscle), unfasten and move the signal light switch, then depress the spring-loaded catch and pull out the cylinder.

Once it's out, it's easy to take it to a locksmith and have a set of keys made for it.





- Eric

Junkman

Don't remember when GM switched from the door and ignition having the same key, but if your car was set up with one key for the door and ignition, take out a door lock. On the side of the lock, is a key number. A locksmith can cut you a new key from that lock number. You don't have to totally remove the door lock, just pull the retainer, and then push the lock out enough to see the key number. I know that my 1969 Cadillac share the same key for the door and ignition.

revrory12

I removed the the lock assembly. It slid out, it is about an inch long. However, the column lock on the column still will not come out. My under standing, is it will not slide out if it is still in the LOCK position?? I also lost the door key but had planned to pull it to have it keyed from its part number. I bought a new column lock online cause I thought I would have to break the old one to get it out.

MDchanic

The column lock cylinder will come out with the switch in any position. The manual is wrong.

- Eric

Junkman

The column lock cylinder should have a key number stamped on the barrel, unless it is a replacement lock. For convenience, if the door and ignition have the same key blank code (A/B/C/D, etc.), I would have the locksmith key them alike. I have one key for my Cadillac that opens all the doors and the ignition. I don't have a trunk, so no trunk lock, but the glove box uses a "trunk" key. Never lock it, so no need to carry a key for it.

revrory12

Pics attached. Pulling the spring retainer out should be all that is required? I will try to pry it out.

joe_padavano

No, they aren't.

I can't say that I'm exactly following your description, but the lock cylinder should look like this:



If the outer sleeve is still in the steering column, then the cylinder is broken and needs to be replaced. You will probably still need to depress the locking tab to remove the cylinder.

If you did remove the entire cylinder and it looks like the photo above, then you should be able to use a large, flat blade screwdriver to engage the gear in the hole in the steering column and turn it to unlock the column and start the car.

revrory12

2 pic attachments of Retainer Spring removal.

revrory12

This is what my new column lock looks like. Still trying to get the old one out.

revrory12

I tried prying it out but just the top cap of the lock came off.

MDchanic

Okay, first, the "retainer spring" is your key-in buzzer switch.

The retainer is located under the rectangle to the right of the key-in switch (if I recall) - its under the layer of flashing, which you have to break through with a screwdriver.

Since you have a replacement, all you need to do is line it up with the old one to see where the retainer engages in the column.

- Eric

MDchanic

Well, you busted that unnecessarily.

All you need to do is follow the instructions in the manual, and look at the pictures I posted.

Hold up the new cylinder so you can see where the locking tab is on the old cylinder, and press there.

In my post above, I think I should have said "just left of the key-in switch," but its hard to tell from the picture.

- Eric

revrory12

So I was looking at the new cylinder and the locking tab on the new cyl will not depress into the cylinder when in the lock position, yet, it will depress into the cyl when in the Run position - this is still my concern on why it won't slide out. I have put screwdrivers etc into the hole where the Key retainer spring goes and tried to push up on the locking tab. I will keep trying - thanks so much for your help!

MDchanic

You push down on the retaining tab. Toward the brake pedal.

I have always found when I have done this that the tab will depress with the key in any position - make sure you're pressing in the right spot - you should be able to see the edge of the tab in the hole.

It is possible to drill the old cylinder, but difficult, as that is hardened steel under the chromed piece.

- Eric

revrory12

the red arrow shows the tab. Is this the one you press in?

MDchanic

Nope.

As I showed in the photo I posted:



It's the vertical rectangular hole, just to the left of the key-in switch.

On your picture, it's here:



Break through the flashing and depress the latch.

... Of course, it could always be the rectangle to the RIGHT of the key-in switch, but my recollection is that the retainer is at the end of the cylinder, not in the middle...
It's been a couple of years.

- Eric

revrory12

Broke through. See pic. I am trying to find the spring retainer through the hole but unable too. I have put a light into it and I do not see it. I have used a screwdriver and a small tool with no luck. I will keep trying.

joe_padavano

Step away from the car and actually READ the posts above. First, that is NOT a "key retainer spring" and, more importantly, that is NOT the hole you need to be pressing into. Go back and look carefully at the photos that Eric posted. The slot you need to press it is to the LEFT of the hole for the key buzzer switch. It is often covered over with casting flash. Just break through the flash. Press on the tab. The lock cylinder will come out in any postion. I've done it many times on many different year GMs.

MDchanic

Yes, that's the place.

Just push down along the right-hand wall of that hole, and you will hit the retainer tab, then pull the cylinder out.

- Eric

revrory12

Thank you everyone for your help. After days of messing with this I stumbled on the trick to remove the cyl lock. There are TWO membranes that need to be broken through. (Note: I drilled out the larger opening to see inside.) There is a Smaller one to the right of the larger one (see pictures). I put a screw driver into the larger opening and put the driver on the back edge of the cyl lock to use as a pry bar. I then used a smaller screw driver to push into the small opening - a little of a jiggle, prying and pushing and it popped out. I put the new Cyl lock in - had to jiggle that a bit too to get in. All works good. Hope this post will help the next person needing to remove the Cyl Lock. I added my email in case some needs to email me with questions in the future. roryforesman@gmail.com

MDchanic

Yeah - this is extremely easy to do, but extremely difficult to explain.

I'm glad you took pictures - I know I never did, and I don't recall anyone else here having posted their own either. It's one of those things you don't think about while you're doing it, if you've done it before, but that's really important if you haven't.

- Eric

Leadfoot

Truer words were never spoken.
Having just done this, it turns out that this is ridiculously simple and yet seems very complicated at the same time (mostly because you really can't see what you're doing). I only wish I'd had a new key cylinder to look at while I was doing this, so I'd have known what I was looking for. For any others checking this thread, here's what I found:

The only casting flash window that needs to be broken through is the narrow slot just to the left of the screw boss. In the photo in posts #18 and #20, it's just to the right of the one already broken through. The correct slot is recessed deeper into the casting. If the key warning buzzer switch is still installed, the exposed switch contacts will partially cover the slot.

Even after breaking through this window, only half of the spring-loaded locking tab will be in the slot, so as Eric said, keep your tool to the right side of the slot. A very thin screwdriver is needed -- I used a large jeweler's screwdriver. You might need to push the lock cylinder into the column to keep it in the right position and keep the locking tab exposed to the slot. Then push the screwdriver towards the center of the lock cylinder. It won't move far (I barely felt it move), and if you slip, the locking tab will spring right back out. It takes a little deftness to keep the tab pushed in, the cylinder pushed in, and then pull the cylinder outward and out of the column. At least for me, the cylinder did not come out easily, and I had to pull harder than I expected. It also doesn't take a lot of force to push the locking tab in -- but you won't be able to do it with anything less stout than a jeweler's screwdriver.

I found a lot of conflicting directions about the correct key switch position while doing this. In order to remove the key buzzer switch without damage, the ignition key needs to either be out of the cylinder or the cylinder turned to the 'Run' position. For removing the cylinder itself, as Eric and Joe pointed out, it doesn't matter if the key is in the cylinder or not, or what position it's in.

I also found the attached photograph somewhat helpful. It's from a Car Craft steering column rebuilding (Chevelle) article (the green text was added by me). I've lost the link to the article, but I'm sure I could find it again if necessary. The view in the photo is rotated ccw about 90 degrees from 'normal'.

My2nd 69 442

Following

Allan R

Following what? This thread is 4 years old...

My2nd 69 442

It may be 4 years old but I am NOW Following in order to see the good info as I possibly need to replace My ignition lock.
Allan, I do appreciate you pointing out that this is an old thread and I hope that the info in it is still valid, but being old myself, I guess that the info is now obsolete.

CRUZN 66

In general, information (for the most part) is never obsolete... It's just a matter of how it is interpreted or used... JMO...

My2nd 69 442

And that is the exact reason that I follow this post. I didn't want to loose sight of the information within

Allan R

No problem.
it's just as easy to use the search tool. Everytime you or I post to a thread it automatically subscribes you until you unsubscribe. For me it would be no different than using a search because of all the threads I am subscribed to.
Good luck working on your lock replacement.

CRUZN 66

On occasion when there is information in various threads I want to save for future use, I will copy and paste the information into a text file using Adobe Reader or Microsoft Word, or any similar program... This came in handy when OLDSPOWER.COM shut down... Plus the information will now be readily available without having to log into a web site...

My2nd 69 442

Thanks John for your post. I'm pretty much computer illiterate and sometimes have an issue with downloading to Adobe or Word and then finding it again.
Back to the Ignition lock removal.
I have my steering column opened up to the point of trying to get the switch out.
I've broken thru the flash metal and I still cannot find the item I'm suspose to press to release the switch for removal
I've tried to find a release in both passages shown directly under the 2 Brass fingers(assume this is the key warning) and the passage just to the left of the 1st passage way and I just haven't found the release.
It's hot out and I'm somewhat frustrated so I will get back after it tomorrow. I don't want to screw something up cause I'm pissed.
Is the release at the top or bottom of the passage?

MDchanic

It's right in this hole:



It's a little finger, like a door latch, that catches on the edge of the hole.
You need to press the lock cylinder in slightly, depress the finger and then pull the lock cylinder out.

- Eric

CRUZN 66

Here's a couple photos from the 69 CSM... You do have to remove the key buzzer switch as well...

Gary M

I have a column with no key. This resurected thread just helped me remove the lock cylinder with no key. Awesome. Learn something new everyday on here.

jharsh

Eric, I thought it was the slot just to the right of that one as in post 21 above.

Gary M

I'm not Eric but it was the slot next to that one. Both had to be punched out but I followed instructions and mine came out. No key. Saved me locksmith fees. I already bought a rebuilt column so now I have an extra.

MDchanic

Nope. If you read the instructions, there is no mention of having to remove the buzzer switch before depressing the latch.

The photo you posted is printed three times in Chapter 9A, once in the section for each steering column type, but is a picture of a tilt-tele column, and not of the regular or tilt-only columns that were available in A-bodies.

Compare the column in the manual picture with the photos of columns seen in this thread.

- Eric

My2nd 69 442

Ok, I pulled the key buzzer switch out and I still haven't found the little bastard latch yet.
I've tried both slots and still cannot pull the switch out.
Hopefully Joe Padavano still has my original key and will send it back to me before Fusick sends me my new lock. That will sure make things easier on me. In the mean time, I will still try to find the latch.

Eric and John: your instructions are as clear as anyone could ever put them, but no success yet
Thanks to all

jharsh

Try this video, it may help. It is for restoring a chevelle column but it should be about the same. Go to the 14 minute mark and he will be removing the lock cylinder.

MDchanic

Okay, he seems to have released the catch by pressing in the slot that is to the right of the one that I indicated, but you can't clearly see it while he's doing it.

Please let us know which slot it is that works for you.

- Eric