Help with 1972 Convertible Cutlass interior lighting
#1
Help with 1972 Convertible Cutlass interior lighting
I've replaced all the interior bulbs in my convertible Cutlass. Before I replaced the bulbs the light under the dash and the floor light ( on the back of the console ) both were working. Now that Ive replaced the rear arm rest bulbs my 25amp fuse blows out. I've also tried to use a bigger fuse ( 30 amp ) and the lights stayed on for a while, also another issue is, once I closed the door the rear armrest lights stayed on and I made sure the interior light switch was in the off posistion. If anyone could shed some light on this situation I would greatly appreciate it. I've only replaced two light bulbs and its causing the accessory fuse to blow each time...ive tried installing the fuse with doors closed and all light switches are off. The bulbs I got are from autozone and they are Sylvania 97 LL ( Long Life )
#2
I'd say you have a short somewhere. You'll need to check all the wires. It could be under the carpet where the wire runs to the back. Maybe pinched or insullation rubbed off. It's not the bulbs and a larger fuse won't help.
#3
What bulbs did you use in the armrests?
Were they #90 bulbs, with two contacts on the bottom (like taillight bulbs), and no connection to the base?
If not, the wrong bulbs could be shorting out the lighting.
- Eric
Were they #90 bulbs, with two contacts on the bottom (like taillight bulbs), and no connection to the base?
If not, the wrong bulbs could be shorting out the lighting.
- Eric
#4
I'm betting a short at or near the armrest lights since they stayed on after the door closed. Maybe the socket is grounding out and someone pulled the bulb to keep from blowing fuses. Just a reminder, the orange wire should be powered all the time and the door swtiches complete the ground to make them light.
#6
Update
When I took the lens off the old bulbs were still in there. They hadn't been disconnected. There appeared to be the original bulbs because they bulb just fell off fron the base ( on both sides ) ...So it appers to me no one ever tried to disconnect the bulbs before I did. I guess the next step is to look for a short somewhere.
The new bulbs are 97LL and I've just noticed that the old bulbs have " 68 G-E " written on the base of the old bulbs, Could the new ones be too powerful for the old wiring in the car?
The new bulbs are 97LL and I've just noticed that the old bulbs have " 68 G-E " written on the base of the old bulbs, Could the new ones be too powerful for the old wiring in the car?
#7
I've also taked the armrest bezels out just to take a quick look there and the wires / connection there looks good on both sides.....
MMCILROY - did you have this exact same issue? and if so what bulbs did you eventually go with?
MMCILROY - did you have this exact same issue? and if so what bulbs did you eventually go with?
#8
How many pins are on the base of the new bulbs?
GE 97 has one pin on the base - that will blow your fuse should that pin short both contacts in the socket. If the pin touches only the HOT contact, it will ground through the base, keeping those lights on all the time.
A 68 has two pins on the base - correct for your application
GE 97 has one pin on the base - that will blow your fuse should that pin short both contacts in the socket. If the pin touches only the HOT contact, it will ground through the base, keeping those lights on all the time.
A 68 has two pins on the base - correct for your application
#9
Okay, Grant, so far McIlroy, Rob, and I (not in that order ) have told you that you have the wrong light bulbs. In fact, you have even explicitly told us in two different places that you used the wrong light bulbs.
I'm not sure how many other ways I can say this:
You can mess with the sockets all you want, but it won't help you.
You need to use the right light bulbs.
How much clearer can THREE of us be?
GO. GET. THE. RIGHT. LIGHT. BULBS.
My recollection is that the right ones are #90, it looks like yours were #68s, which is what Rob says. Go look in the manual, make sure which one of us is right (Probably Rob - he's much more detail oriented), and get the right bulbs.
Until you do, you will keep blowing fuses and your lights won't work right.
This is not a complicated fix.
- Eric
I'm not sure how many other ways I can say this:
You can mess with the sockets all you want, but it won't help you.
You need to use the right light bulbs.
How much clearer can THREE of us be?
GO. GET. THE. RIGHT. LIGHT. BULBS.
My recollection is that the right ones are #90, it looks like yours were #68s, which is what Rob says. Go look in the manual, make sure which one of us is right (Probably Rob - he's much more detail oriented), and get the right bulbs.
Until you do, you will keep blowing fuses and your lights won't work right.
This is not a complicated fix.
- Eric
#10
68 is is the longer life (dimmer) bulb, rated at higher voltage. 90 is probably the one listed in the manual, as it sounds familiar. Brighter with shorter life. Either will function in this application.
I would pick up the new ones at a local auto parts store so you can verify base style. I ran across a couple specialty bulb websites that incorrectly listed the 90 as a single contact! The might send you a 9somethingorother.
#68 MINIATURE BULB BA15D BASE - 13.5 Volt 0.59 Amp G-6 Double Contact (DC) Bayonet (BA15D) Base, C-6 Filament Design. 1.44" Maximum Overall Length. 5,000 Average Rated Hours (rated 5,000+ at 14 Volts)
#90 MINIATURE BULB BA15D BASE - 13.0 Volt .58 Amp G6 Double Contact Bayonet (Ba15D) Base, 6.0 MSCP C-6 Filament Design. 1.44" Maximum Overall Length. 750 Average Rated Hours.
I would pick up the new ones at a local auto parts store so you can verify base style. I ran across a couple specialty bulb websites that incorrectly listed the 90 as a single contact! The might send you a 9somethingorother.
#68 MINIATURE BULB BA15D BASE - 13.5 Volt 0.59 Amp G-6 Double Contact (DC) Bayonet (BA15D) Base, C-6 Filament Design. 1.44" Maximum Overall Length. 5,000 Average Rated Hours (rated 5,000+ at 14 Volts)
#90 MINIATURE BULB BA15D BASE - 13.0 Volt .58 Amp G6 Double Contact Bayonet (Ba15D) Base, 6.0 MSCP C-6 Filament Design. 1.44" Maximum Overall Length. 750 Average Rated Hours.
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