Cutlass 69, replacing the dash light, wich lamp & converting to LED?
#1
Cutlass 69, replacing the dash light, wich lamp & converting to LED?
Which lamp should I get for the 69 Cutlass dash lights, what's the socket, and would it make sens to convert to LED?
Thank you,
Tom
Thank you,
Tom
#2
If your gauges are the same as my 70 442 clone, then you have 161, 168, and 194 bulbs in the left 2 gauges.
The ONLY differences in these 3 bulbs.....is the wattages. They are EXACTLY the same style outside of that.
The clock are another style that are $10 a pop even on Ebay......so I haven't replaced them cuz my clock is broke.
Here's the rest, I don't feel like typing it up again.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...42-guages.html
Look at the 1st and 3rd pic side by side to see the big difference.
The ONLY differences in these 3 bulbs.....is the wattages. They are EXACTLY the same style outside of that.
The clock are another style that are $10 a pop even on Ebay......so I haven't replaced them cuz my clock is broke.
Here's the rest, I don't feel like typing it up again.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...42-guages.html
Look at the 1st and 3rd pic side by side to see the big difference.
Last edited by Aceshigh; July 24th, 2010 at 06:25 PM.
#3
161 is 1 candlepower, 194 is 2cp, and 168 is 3cp.
I used 168's for all the idiot lights, indicators, and gauge illumination bullbs.
I used 194's to light up the lower AC and wiper / top / cruise switches.
I found NO use for the little 161's anywhere on my 72.
LEDs may not be necessary.
Pull the gauges, take them all apart and clean them up inside and out.
Repaint the interiors if yours are discolored and faded and they should be as bright as new!
A good guide thread is here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post130178
and some pictures of my end result is here (NO LEDs were used):
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post168730
I used 168's for all the idiot lights, indicators, and gauge illumination bullbs.
I used 194's to light up the lower AC and wiper / top / cruise switches.
I found NO use for the little 161's anywhere on my 72.
LEDs may not be necessary.
Pull the gauges, take them all apart and clean them up inside and out.
Repaint the interiors if yours are discolored and faded and they should be as bright as new!
A good guide thread is here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post130178
and some pictures of my end result is here (NO LEDs were used):
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post168730
#4
No doubt what she did is totally badass. As well as the write up.
I couldn't brag enough about her tutorial and pics. Great place to begin, no doubt....
However, at the end of the day.....LED's are superior to incandescent bulbs in every way.
If you followed her write up AND put LED's in, you've done the best of both worlds.
I couldn't brag enough about her tutorial and pics. Great place to begin, no doubt....
However, at the end of the day.....LED's are superior to incandescent bulbs in every way.
If you followed her write up AND put LED's in, you've done the best of both worlds.
#5
Who's she and what did she do?
Except in price and color match.
Color match can be compensated for be changing the color of the paint used inside the gauges.
Since LEDs are often brighter than incs, one would want to install them and compare the brightness to the rest of the dash prior to doing any painting.
You would not want the gauges blinding bright and the rest of the dash normal; they should all be somewhat equal to the dimmest dash item (and this may not have an LED equivalent.)
Except in price and color match.
Color match can be compensated for be changing the color of the paint used inside the gauges.
Since LEDs are often brighter than incs, one would want to install them and compare the brightness to the rest of the dash prior to doing any painting.
You would not want the gauges blinding bright and the rest of the dash normal; they should all be somewhat equal to the dimmest dash item (and this may not have an LED equivalent.)
#6
Hi Rob, thank you for your thread about dash lightning, just cool. Meanwhile I went on and I ordered a set of LED fitting for w5w, 194, etc. So I hope they will fit. I let you know how things work out.
#7
So, I am back, and I have good and bad news. first the good news. The left side of my dash is working nice and bright, but the speedo in the center is totally dark. So I decided to do it like Rob - take out the whole thing, clean it and check it. But what to say. It took me quite a while to get the two little screws at the bottom of the gauges, but after they were loose, I tried to pull the units out, i.e. the one where the clock is supposed to go, but no chance.
So here is my question. Do I really have to take speedo and idot lights unit apart while in the dashboard? Or is there a trick to that? I am afraid to get scratches on the silver line of the units.
So here is my question. Do I really have to take speedo and idot lights unit apart while in the dashboard? Or is there a trick to that? I am afraid to get scratches on the silver line of the units.
#8
Welcome back Tom! Perfect timing, too, as your car picture was on last months calendar page!
I am guessing the 69 gauges are different then the 70-72 - do you have a picture showing them? I thought they were the same but I am not too knowledgeable on pre-70s...
I am guessing the 69 gauges are different then the 70-72 - do you have a picture showing them? I thought they were the same but I am not too knowledgeable on pre-70s...
#9
Hi Rob,
so I got the gauges out this evening, what job. I feel like "It's a dirty job, but someone's gonna do it." I had to take down the duct behind the gauges, and the one with the gas gauge I had to take the front ring off. Otherwise it was impossible to take it down to the foot area.
But after I had it out, I double checked the fitting situation in the dash hole. It seem the way in it could work from the front, but to take it out, it always got stuck on the dash liner.
Would you know, if I am missing on lamp of in the rear of the speedometer, does none of the lamps work? And whats the correct name for the plastic plugs where the lamp goes in and you tighten up in the gauge housing? If I can't find the missing one, I have to get a new one.
Regards,
Tom
so I got the gauges out this evening, what job. I feel like "It's a dirty job, but someone's gonna do it." I had to take down the duct behind the gauges, and the one with the gas gauge I had to take the front ring off. Otherwise it was impossible to take it down to the foot area.
But after I had it out, I double checked the fitting situation in the dash hole. It seem the way in it could work from the front, but to take it out, it always got stuck on the dash liner.
Would you know, if I am missing on lamp of in the rear of the speedometer, does none of the lamps work? And whats the correct name for the plastic plugs where the lamp goes in and you tighten up in the gauge housing? If I can't find the missing one, I have to get a new one.
Regards,
Tom
#10
If you are missing one lamp, the rest should work. Make sure the bulbs are good and that the power and ground connections at the gauge are good. Sometimes the connector pins get loose and need resoldering.
I think your missing part would be a "lamp socket". Hopefully it fell out and is trapped under the dash somewhere.
BTW, when i revisit Germany, i will have to look you up. Cruising to beer joints in the Olds would sure be great! Some of the best food and beer was found there during a 2 week Europe tour I went on 5 years ago...
I think your missing part would be a "lamp socket". Hopefully it fell out and is trapped under the dash somewhere.
BTW, when i revisit Germany, i will have to look you up. Cruising to beer joints in the Olds would sure be great! Some of the best food and beer was found there during a 2 week Europe tour I went on 5 years ago...
#11
Hi Rob, you're always welcome here for a beer and a ride. Looking forward. Could you please let me know which pin to connect to the 12V+ terminal and which to the ground, in order to test the lights on a bench?
Regards from Munich.
Tom
Regards from Munich.
Tom
#12
Could you post a picture of the back of your gauge? I am thinking it is different then the 70-72...
If you apply 12V across one of the night-illumination bulbs in the cluser, the others should come on as they are wired in parallel.
If you apply 12V across one of the night-illumination bulbs in the cluser, the others should come on as they are wired in parallel.
#14
So I took everything apart, cleaned it really well and everything looked fine. Only the glass is kind of faded. Should I consider have a acrylic glass guy make one for me, or would it turn down originality? Or is there a place which sells new glass fronts for gauges.
I guess I also recognized the way of electricity, but I still added a pic of my gauges rear to this reply. So I look for a 12V source and then I test the lights.
I am so eager to show a picture after all is finished.
@Stevengerad: Thanks for informing me, I think I should find the missing socket, but in case, where could I find one on line?
Oh, just one more question. I also have a clock for my dash now, but I think it pulls some power, and after standing all winter the battery could cut out, which never happened so far. So I think of converting to a 12 V clock quartz drive. Would anyone know if there is something available?
Hey guys,
thank your very much for your help and support.
Regards,
Tom
I guess I also recognized the way of electricity, but I still added a pic of my gauges rear to this reply. So I look for a 12V source and then I test the lights.
I am so eager to show a picture after all is finished.
@Stevengerad: Thanks for informing me, I think I should find the missing socket, but in case, where could I find one on line?
Oh, just one more question. I also have a clock for my dash now, but I think it pulls some power, and after standing all winter the battery could cut out, which never happened so far. So I think of converting to a 12 V clock quartz drive. Would anyone know if there is something available?
Hey guys,
thank your very much for your help and support.
Regards,
Tom
Last edited by craftsmen22; September 2nd, 2010 at 10:53 AM. Reason: missing picture
#15
Okay, so the 69 is the same as the 70-72!
The socket you are missing is for the High Beam indicator. The two light blue sockets are for night Lights
The last to are for the Turn Signals, R, & L.
Make sure the screws circled in yellow are snug, clean and not stripped.
They make your ground connections to the gauge case.
So then with the negative side of your 12V source to the case, apply 12V to the contact circled in fushia / purple and the lights should come on!
The socket you are missing is for the High Beam indicator. The two light blue sockets are for night Lights
The last to are for the Turn Signals, R, & L.
Make sure the screws circled in yellow are snug, clean and not stripped.
They make your ground connections to the gauge case.
So then with the negative side of your 12V source to the case, apply 12V to the contact circled in fushia / purple and the lights should come on!
#17
I countet 12 opening for lights. As far as I remember, I replaced only 10 with LEDs since turn indicators look funny using LED lights, maybe I used regular lights for oil and heat as well. I am sorry for not knowing better by now. I ordered about 12 to 15 LED lights and so I have some left for other vehicles.
Regards,
Tom
Regards,
Tom
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