Alternator Upgrade - 3800 V6
#1
Alternator Upgrade - 3800 V6
I currently have the base 108 amp alternator on my 90 Toronado. Because my car has the optional VIC, it puts a lot of strain on the charging system, especially now in the warmer months with the A/C running all the time. I was thinking of putting the 120 amp in it (it was optional for the car) and am wondering if I can use the same wiring? I assume it is the same, especially since after looking for replacements, most are the 120 amp anyhow.
I've never replaced an alternator before so I'm not that familiar with them. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
I've never replaced an alternator before so I'm not that familiar with them. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
#2
It should be relatively easy to replace the alternator. If your Toronado is a daily driver that you do maintenance on I suggest buying a Chilton's guide. They aren't as good as the Factory Service Manual but they are invaluable for common maintenance items like alternators, brake master cylinders, fuel filters, etc.
The easiest way to tell if the high amp alternator would fit your current wiring harness is to look at one at the parts store. Just compare the two. If they have the same wiring harness plug you should be good. I don't know of any problems you would run into on that car.
The easiest way to tell if the high amp alternator would fit your current wiring harness is to look at one at the parts store. Just compare the two. If they have the same wiring harness plug you should be good. I don't know of any problems you would run into on that car.
#3
It should be relatively easy to replace the alternator. If your Toronado is a daily driver that you do maintenance on I suggest buying a Chilton's guide. They aren't as good as the Factory Service Manual but they are invaluable for common maintenance items like alternators, brake master cylinders, fuel filters, etc.
The easiest way to tell if the high amp alternator would fit your current wiring harness is to look at one at the parts store. Just compare the two. If they have the same wiring harness plug you should be good. I don't know of any problems you would run into on that car.
The easiest way to tell if the high amp alternator would fit your current wiring harness is to look at one at the parts store. Just compare the two. If they have the same wiring harness plug you should be good. I don't know of any problems you would run into on that car.
#4
You should do what Olds64 suggests, but most likely, the alternators will be the same as far as wiring. Should be plug and play within each series of alternators.
#7
Good idea...I will do that!
#8
I think it's the original alternator and when I have the A/C on and stopped at a light or something, the volt gauge goes down into the orange...around 12V...so I figured it could probably use a boost since being in AZ, the air conditioning is on for about 9 months out of the year...lol.
#9
#10
#11
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Joeypete,
What did you end up doing? BTW, I know this may be an after the fact post for you but it wouldn't be a bad idea to check your battery to see if its in good shape. I had a similar problem with my 98 and went through "hell" trying to find the problem. I found a weak alternator, new (defective battery) amongst other things, and finally found the source of the problem as a minor vacuum leak.
Also, if you are finding a drop in idle when you're running the AC, you should check your IAC to make sure it's not carboned up or not working. It is supposed to compensate for the AC with an increase in vacuum to allow your rpms to remain steady when the AC pump is cycling. An IAC is really cheap and easy to replace or clean.
What did you end up doing? BTW, I know this may be an after the fact post for you but it wouldn't be a bad idea to check your battery to see if its in good shape. I had a similar problem with my 98 and went through "hell" trying to find the problem. I found a weak alternator, new (defective battery) amongst other things, and finally found the source of the problem as a minor vacuum leak.
Also, if you are finding a drop in idle when you're running the AC, you should check your IAC to make sure it's not carboned up or not working. It is supposed to compensate for the AC with an increase in vacuum to allow your rpms to remain steady when the AC pump is cycling. An IAC is really cheap and easy to replace or clean.
#12
Joeypete,
What did you end up doing? BTW, I know this may be an after the fact post for you but it wouldn't be a bad idea to check your battery to see if its in good shape. I had a similar problem with my 98 and went through "hell" trying to find the problem. I found a weak alternator, new (defective battery) amongst other things, and finally found the source of the problem as a minor vacuum leak.
Also, if you are finding a drop in idle when you're running the AC, you should check your IAC to make sure it's not carboned up or not working. It is supposed to compensate for the AC with an increase in vacuum to allow your rpms to remain steady when the AC pump is cycling. An IAC is really cheap and easy to replace or clean.
What did you end up doing? BTW, I know this may be an after the fact post for you but it wouldn't be a bad idea to check your battery to see if its in good shape. I had a similar problem with my 98 and went through "hell" trying to find the problem. I found a weak alternator, new (defective battery) amongst other things, and finally found the source of the problem as a minor vacuum leak.
Also, if you are finding a drop in idle when you're running the AC, you should check your IAC to make sure it's not carboned up or not working. It is supposed to compensate for the AC with an increase in vacuum to allow your rpms to remain steady when the AC pump is cycling. An IAC is really cheap and easy to replace or clean.
I'll check the IAC as well...the car has pretty low miles so I imagine it's got a lot of original parts. I haven't really done much to it since I bought it except fix some pack rat damage and then the dealer did some work for me. I replaced the battery because the car died on me early on but then I discovered it was corroded battery cable terminals. I converted them to top post since the nut was stripped on the side terminal...so the battery is good.
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