1995 olds cutlass problem

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Old October 29th, 2006, 01:50 PM
  #1  
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1995 olds cutlass problem

I'm trying to work on my girlfriend's 1995 Olds Cutlass Supreme and make it safe for her and the kids to travel around in. I replaced brake pads, rotors, and front calipers. The brakes work fine, and untill yesterday, the tail lights worked fine also. The car is a 95 cutlass, 4 door, 3.1 liter, with cruise control. I checked the stop light fuse, its not blown, and i replaced the stop light switch(by the brake pedal). The taillights come on regularly when the headlights are turned on. The 4-way flashers/hazzard lights work fine. The lights do not get brighter when the brake pedal is depressed, and the light in the back window doesnt work either. The front blinkers work fine, but nothing in the rear. I'm lost. I checked the fuse, and replaced the stoplight switch. Could the cruise control switch(located right above the stoplight switch) be the problem? Is this car equipped with a master cylinder switch? Any info/ideas would be greatly appreciated. We don't really have the money to take it to a shop, and can't afford any tickets, so if anyone has any hints we would be grateful.

Thanks.
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Old October 30th, 2006, 06:43 AM
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Does the switch have powercoming to it& leaving when pedal is pushed ? .If so chech the plug for the T/S switch I have seen this connection burnt many times,if power gets there & leaves check the connection arount the trunk area .Prosses of elimination procedure would cost you $$ per hour
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Old October 30th, 2006, 06:57 AM
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If the rear lamps get brighter when you activate the 4-way hazard switch, then the lamps and the wiring from the front of the car to the back is good. You must have a problem in a switch or a junction someplace under the hood. You really need to get a maintenance manual with a wiring diagram to be sure, unless someone has tackled and solved this one before. Good luck.
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Old November 11th, 2006, 07:42 AM
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Thanks to everyone for the help. Well it took awhile, but finally I figured out it was the turn signal switch. Not a very easy fix for someone who hasnt ever done this before, trust me. If anyone ever has to do this on a similar car to mine, i strongly suggest buying or borrowing a tool to put the steering wheel lock mechanism back in place, the spring that holds everything in place has so much force that its about impossible to push down without a tool. Also, be sure to disconnect the battery before you start working on this project because of the airbag. Oh yea, I called a mechanic and asked how much to replace the t/s switch and I was quoted $360. The switch only cost me $54, and the tool to put the wheel back on was $14, a do it yourself savings of about $300. Thanks alot everyone.
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