1967 CS Won't Start - ClassicOldsmobile.com

1967 CS Won't Start

Old November 19th, 2018, 08:12 AM
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1967 CS Won't Start

I have power to accessories, I have power to lights, the starter is engaging, and the carb is getting gas but I have no spark. The car ran fine yesterday and all I have done is replace a radio. I tried replacing the coil thinking that was about the only thing under the hood that could go bad in a short period of time, that did not help, I still have no spark. Any ideas?

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Old November 19th, 2018, 09:00 AM
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What type of ignition system do you have - breaker points, electronic points conversion, or HEI?

Have you checked all of the fuses to ensure none of them are blown?
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Old November 19th, 2018, 09:09 AM
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I have the original breaker points. I have checked the fuses but I have been having issues with the fuse block and have a replacement Painless block to put in but I need to get this car out of my garage for a few days and don't have time to replace that just yet.
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Old November 19th, 2018, 06:03 PM
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Do you have 12v at the coil + terminal in both the start and run position? Are the points opening and closing and set to .016 gap?
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Old November 19th, 2018, 07:51 PM
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I, apparently, do not have points and condensor. I have appx 6 volts at the coil when the key is in run, and appx 9 volts when the key is in start.
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Old November 19th, 2018, 08:40 PM
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Is your battery low? If you don't have points, run a jumper wire from the battery+ to the coil+ terminal. If you still don't have spark I'd say you have a bad what ever is in there.
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Old November 21st, 2018, 07:21 AM
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How is an original 1967 330 with a floor shift automatic supposed to react when you try to start it with the shifter not in Park? Would the starter engage but some circuit not engage that might prevent spark? or would the starter not engage at all?
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Old November 21st, 2018, 07:41 AM
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If the starter engages it will feed 12v to the coil+ terminal., with the key on only you should see 9ish volts. If the shifter is in park or neutral the starter will engage, it should not engage in gear/s or reverse. There is no circuit to prevent spark unless you have a kill switch somewhere.

Look to see where the red wire from the distributor is going, it will be connected to a 12v feed wire or the coil+ terminal and the black wire from the distributor will be connected to the coil-. Connect the red wire to the coil+ if its not already and run a jumper from the battery+ post to the coil+ terminal and crank the engine. If you still have no spark its most likely the points replacement kit in the distributor is bad. Either get a new one or revert back to points and condenser.
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Old November 21st, 2018, 07:49 AM
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Thanks for the quick response. I'm on the road for Thanksgiving but I will try your jumper test when I get back to my car.
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Old November 21st, 2018, 09:12 AM
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If the problem started immediately after replacing the radio, I would look at everything touched during that job..
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Old November 21st, 2018, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by frankr442 View Post
If the problem started immediately after replacing the radio, I would look at everything touched during that job..
While this may be true, the quick test I suggested above would rule out everything but the distributor. In addition he stated there was voltage in both the start and run key positions at the coil+ terminal.

If the car starts and the red wire from the distributor was hooked to another keyed supply feed other than the coil + terminal then yes the radio install as a cause would be suspect.
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Old November 21st, 2018, 07:33 PM
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As soon as I realized that she wouldn’t start after the new radio install, I disconnected the radio hoping that was the cause. I really have a lot of corrosion in the fuse block and in the distributor. She has been running, so I had not yet addressed those two issues. I now have a new fuse block and I have ordered HEI distributor, so all that will now be replaced as I continue to try to find what has sudden.y caused my car to not produce a spark.

Thanks! Happy Thanksgiving!
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Old November 21st, 2018, 08:06 PM
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An HEI is not a plug and play mod. It needs a full 12v to run right and your stock timing stings are n/a. If it ran good before, why not repair the distributor you have?
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Old November 22nd, 2018, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass View Post
An HEI is not a plug and play mod. It needs a full 12v to run right and your stock timing stings are n/a. If it ran good before, why not repair the distributor you have?
i figure, Iím redoing the fuse block, so running a new 12v wire to the distributor will be easy. The distributor has already been ordered so I might as well use it. I knew timing and plug gap was going to change but I did not realize timing would need that much of a change, Iíll figure it out (I hope). Iím doing a mild resto mod on this car so I donít mind updating a few things and I had heard the HEI was a good mod to do.
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Old November 22nd, 2018, 11:01 PM
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Not really mandatory to change the plug gap. You can open it slightly if you want - I gap mine at .040-.045 instead of .035, but I wouldn't go any wider.
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Old December 7th, 2018, 10:11 AM
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I finally got to spend some quality time with the Cutlass last weekend. It turns out that I managed to short out the 12v wire to the coil (for starting purposes) while I was doing the other new wiring. So, I was sending my starting circuit 12v directly to ground. She is back on the road. However, I will be replacing the fuse block with a Painless 30001 Fuse Block and I will be putting in an HEI Distributor soon as well.

Thanks for the help guys!
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Old December 7th, 2018, 12:05 PM
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Glad you got it running
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