Alternator upgrade questions
November 15th, 2018, 09:24 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 118
Alternator upgrade questions
I've swapped a powermaster alternator - which is internally regulated. My 71 cutlass previously had an externally regulated alternator.
My question is do I need to run fuses or diodes anywhere? No issues as of yet..
I watched a video on how to do so with some of the wiring, but I will be upgrading the charge wire too. I've tested the voltage and it's not quite up to par, only 13.5 volts sometimes lower when accessories kick on.
I'm trying to wire in my sniper, ignition box and dual sync distributor so I'll need the juice.
Also is there any other switched 12v source I could use on the fuse panel. Sniper has to have a source and the ignition box also, or do I just connect both to the same source? Somewhat confusing... Thanks for any tips
My question is do I need to run fuses or diodes anywhere? No issues as of yet..
I watched a video on how to do so with some of the wiring, but I will be upgrading the charge wire too. I've tested the voltage and it's not quite up to par, only 13.5 volts sometimes lower when accessories kick on.
I'm trying to wire in my sniper, ignition box and dual sync distributor so I'll need the juice.
Also is there any other switched 12v source I could use on the fuse panel. Sniper has to have a source and the ignition box also, or do I just connect both to the same source? Somewhat confusing... Thanks for any tips
Last edited by big man; November 15th, 2018 at 09:26 PM.
November 16th, 2018, 06:16 PM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
First off which alternator did you install? For the sniper I would use a switched 12v source to power a relay to aux fuse panel, terminal strip, or stud with a 12v feed direct from the battery with the load fused as required.
November 17th, 2018, 04:47 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,232
A MSD ignition box will probably require a diode in the charge light wire (the brown wire that went to the old firewall mounted regulator.
Holley wants the power and grind wires run directly to the battery, but sometimes that’s not practical. You could use the stud on the horn relay to power the EFI.
Holley wants the power and grind wires run directly to the battery, but sometimes that’s not practical. You could use the stud on the horn relay to power the EFI.
November 18th, 2018, 05:03 PM
#5
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Location: central Indiana
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The horn relay stud should have power at all times. The BEST place to get a key on switched 12 volt power is the pink wire coming from the ignition switch. That wire isn’t fused, so make sure to include a proper sized fuse. You could also use the power wire to the ignition coil assuming the resistance wire has been completely removed. Some people like to use the resistance wire to trigger a relay to provide full 12 bolts to the ignition, I don’t like the idea of relays for that. One more thing to possibly fail.
November 18th, 2018, 05:46 PM
#6
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 118
Lol I wish I were more electrically inclined!
So could I use the ignition stud on the fuse panel for the ignition box and the pink wire for the sniper?
Had the sniper running with an Hei distributor but needing a little help on doing the dual sync and ignition box. Both of which are new to me. Thanks thus far..
So could I use the ignition stud on the fuse panel for the ignition box and the pink wire for the sniper?
Had the sniper running with an Hei distributor but needing a little help on doing the dual sync and ignition box. Both of which are new to me. Thanks thus far..
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