Temp wiring help
October 21st, 2018, 02:38 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 227
Temp wiring help
I am trying to temp wire my 455 to see if it will fire. I have a battery cable to the starter, and a ground along with a wire from the battery to the S side of the coil. I do not have a wire from the R to the + of the coil, not sure I need that, but lets come back to that.
i have the wire from the distributor connected to the - on the coil. Oh and that condenser on the coil bracket is also connected to the + side of the coil. Hopefully that sounds right.
my real question is, do i need to have my power going from the battery to the coil run through a resistor even if it will only run for a few minutes. I have no problem wiring it, but I have no idea where or what a resistor looks like to run it through. Or should I head to the autoparts store and deal with them trying to find one when they barely know what a car is?
and if I need a resistor, should I run the wire from R to the + coil?
last question, is there a resistance I can measure on my oil pressure sensor to know I am ok?
any help would be much appreciated.
bob
i have the wire from the distributor connected to the - on the coil. Oh and that condenser on the coil bracket is also connected to the + side of the coil. Hopefully that sounds right.
my real question is, do i need to have my power going from the battery to the coil run through a resistor even if it will only run for a few minutes. I have no problem wiring it, but I have no idea where or what a resistor looks like to run it through. Or should I head to the autoparts store and deal with them trying to find one when they barely know what a car is?
and if I need a resistor, should I run the wire from R to the + coil?
last question, is there a resistance I can measure on my oil pressure sensor to know I am ok?
any help would be much appreciated.
bob
Last edited by Rvsmith5; October 21st, 2018 at 02:53 PM.
October 21st, 2018, 06:03 PM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,553
You need your battery + cable run to the starter solenoid, battery - cable to the block, a temporary jumper from the starter S terminal to the battery to engage the solenoid, a temporary battery + wire to the coil + terminal, and the distributor black wire connected to the coil - terminal. You do not need the condenser on the coil bracket connected its a radio noise filter.
To start connect the jumper from the coil+ terminal to the battery +, touch the jumper that's connected to the starter S terminal to crank the engine and remove when the engine fires. In order to turn it off remove the jumper from the battery + that's connected to the coil + terminal. You don't need to use the resistance wire for a short run. If your going to break the cam in, then buy a ballast resistor at your local parts store.
If you cannot hook up the stock gauges, get an inexpensive 3 gauge set, mechanical oil pressure, mechanical temp, and a volt meter and hook them up instead.
To start connect the jumper from the coil+ terminal to the battery +, touch the jumper that's connected to the starter S terminal to crank the engine and remove when the engine fires. In order to turn it off remove the jumper from the battery + that's connected to the coil + terminal. You don't need to use the resistance wire for a short run. If your going to break the cam in, then buy a ballast resistor at your local parts store.
If you cannot hook up the stock gauges, get an inexpensive 3 gauge set, mechanical oil pressure, mechanical temp, and a volt meter and hook them up instead.
October 21st, 2018, 06:10 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,245
Go to the parts stor and ask for a ballast resister for a some kind of Chrysler product, put the ballets resister in-line between the battery and positive side of the coil. You will also need a wire from the R terminal on the starter solenoid and the positive side of the coil. The s post on the solenoid will need to go to a momentary switch to crank the engine. That should be the minimum you need to temporarily run the engine.
The oil peessure sending unit will show zero resistance to ground with the engine off, and should read very high resistance with the engine running. This assumes you have a sending unit for a oil light. If the sender is for a gauge, I have no clue what resistance it will show for different oil pressure reading. I’d would suggest a mechanical gauge to be somewhat accurate.
The oil peessure sending unit will show zero resistance to ground with the engine off, and should read very high resistance with the engine running. This assumes you have a sending unit for a oil light. If the sender is for a gauge, I have no clue what resistance it will show for different oil pressure reading. I’d would suggest a mechanical gauge to be somewhat accurate.
October 22nd, 2018, 07:47 AM
#4
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,301
For five or ten minutes on a run stand, sending full 12V to the points will not harm anything.
You only need two wires besides the battery cables. A "start" wire to the "S" terminal on the starter (or a remote start button, or a screwdriver shorted across the terminals) and a wire from power to the "+" terminal on the coil. If you have an HEI distributor, then run that wire to the BATT terminal. Done.
You only need two wires besides the battery cables. A "start" wire to the "S" terminal on the starter (or a remote start button, or a screwdriver shorted across the terminals) and a wire from power to the "+" terminal on the coil. If you have an HEI distributor, then run that wire to the BATT terminal. Done.
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