keith.parks@sbcglobal.net

I recently installed Dakota Digital's VHX-70O-CUT gauges in my '70 442 with a TH400. The installation is pretty easy. I went slow and followed the instructions and they lit up and worked on the first try! I did run into an issue I wanted to report. I had trouble with the speedometer. It would work for a while, begin to fluctuate and then die. Next time I got in the car, it worked fine but followed the same sequence of events. It took a while and some experimenting but it finally dawned on me that the signal generator that screws in to the speedo drive cable adaptor was probably getting hot and the signal would be cut off. I bought a Dakota Digital part # 130011 speedometer cable extender and installed it. That cured the problem. The cable moved the signal generator 7 inches away from the transmission and I guess that amount of heat isolation is enough. For a little extra protection, I used some DER exhaust wrap on the exhaust pipe near the signal generator too.

Alex72cutty

Sent you a PM!

NTXOlds

Another example of why we need a "LIKE" button on this forum.

Great info!

442Dude

I have the same Dakota Digital setup in my 71 442 that I just finished the resto on. Love the gages and cluster. I used the Dakota VSS and mounted it right to the tail shaft of the Tremec TKX 5 speed trans. The signal is rock solid and I have not had one issue with it varying or heat. Maybe we have different heat loads with our exhaust and such. I have dual 3" exhaust pipes close by but not right near the VSS. No exhaust wrap. There might also be a difference on where that VSS mounts on a THM-400 vice the Tremec TKX.

Glad you got yours up and working.

Vintage Chief

Look no further than the right side of the posted thread....this isn't FB.

NTXOlds

Fair point, BUT rating the thread is not the same as liking an individual post.

A couple of other automotive forums I am on allow you to "like" individual posts with a variety of reactions such as a "thumbs up, smile, etc." It works really well on those forums.

Vintage Chief

I agree with your comment. Curious if any of those other forums you belong to are owned by LLC dba Internet Brands?

Vintage Chief

I just answered/validated my own question. I checked out a couple other LLC dba Internet Brands forum sites I belong to and they do have a LIKE button on each post. I am neither a Moderator nor an Administrator; but I have noticed many very, very, very simple features are NOT enabled on this CO forum which should be enabled (as you suggest). Personally, I think when someone built this CO site, they dropped the ball on enabling half of the features which normally should be enabled. I could go on, but I'm nearly positive my recommendations and comments fall on deaf ears.

There are some peculiarities regarding this CO site. They pay me nothing, which certainly is never going to be enough to provide meaningful recommendations. Therefore, I'm not going to make any positive suggestions. About the ONLY thing an Administrator or Moderator can do on this site is what has been handed down to them from a higher level Administrator with higher privileges. This would be the someone who has dropped the ball and never to be seen again. You get what you pay for.....

Here's an example of many other LLC dba Internet Brands sites which do have the LIKE button:

NTXOlds

like :d

AnDyHD

I've been looking into these sets and they seem great. I looked through the set-up and installation manuals and didn't find some answers.
Did you guys splice onto the stock harness or use pins to fit the stock gauge harness connectors for the various inputs the module requires? Things like turn signals, high beam, fuel level and parking brake. I understand DD provides wiring for the VSS, oil and temp. Also, for the brake indicator, did you connect this to the parking brake switch AND the hydraulic switch? I would prefer both brake outputs to be recognized and I'd prefer not to cut the factory harness but I don't know where to get pins to fit the Olds gauge harness connectors ('68 Cutlass S)

Thanks
Andy

keith.parks@sbcglobal.net

I can't remember what I did on the brake switches. I do remember I did NOT cut the harness. I'd call Dakota Digital. Their techs are really helpful.

Loaded68W34

I used a new 21 circuit harness with plastic style fuses when I rewired my vista cruiser and the dash modules account for 6 (main dash module, gear shift position, fuel pressure, air tank pressure, trans temp, power steering temp) of the 20 or so modules and computers in the car so I can't help much with photos of integrating the module into a stock harness. As for the question about the brake light, the factory light is connected to the parking brake and the differential switch in the distribution block (parallel and independant ground connections). This junction is made in the fuse block just behind the bulkhead connector so if you use the wire running to the back of the dash it will be connected to both just like the factory light is. I do not know of a connector that will attach to the factory dash plugs. You could possibly cut up another harness and find pins that would allow you to plug your existing dash connectors into the connectors from the donor harness. Something like a nail that would act as a male insert into both female connectors (original and donor dash plugs). Then use the donor connectors/ harness to make your connections to the dakota digital dash module. To me that seems like a lot of trouble and places to lose continuity (if you find copper or brass pins/ nails you could solder them to the donor harness connectors which would eliminate some possible issues making it almost like the stock dash circuit board). I would just cut off the factory dash connectors and use the wires from the factory harness for the dash module. As a tech tip, these moduels use a small set screw to secure each wire. I prefer to tin (solder) all of these connections before inserting the wire into the module connectors.

AnDyHD

Sounds like you have a heck of a customized set up in the wagon. Good point regarding the factory brake light wiring, I overlooked the fact that both switches are on the same circuit, TY. Another thing occured to me, do avoid damaging the factory harness I could de-pin the connectors as needed then solder the DD wire to the female connector and use dry shrink tubing to insulate.
Good point regarding tinning the wires on the module end, those set screws work way better with a solid core.
Now I just need to make the order

442Dude

Andy---a few thoughts and tips from the ones that I've installed and I've done lots of DD clusters, wiring harnesses, and such in these vintage cars.
First, on both my personal cars, I installed a new American Autowire harness. In my opinion, they are the best and most capable as far as what they offer and the quality of what you get. There are many advantages including the additional circuits that are included for use as well as clearly marked wires, great schematics, and good tech support if you need it. I just finished a complete re-wire of a 68 Camaro last week with this harness and a DD cluster. Turned out fabulous. People love the harness because you can tailor the length and routing of each wire in order to keep them allot cleaner than factory ever did.
On the DD cluster...there is an I/O box that must receive all signals from the various inputs to include the ones you asked about related to the brakes. Every signal that you want the dash to display must be landed into the I/O box. In order to get the signals into that box, one could take them from the factory harness with connectors or terminals into the I/O box without destroying or contaminating the factory harness if you wished. I'm sure that DD may even have small harnesses that are meant to go from each trunk of the harness to each branch. Possibly these branches could then run to the I/O box. I'm sure there's a way. It's also of note that the DD clusters require their own calibrated sending units for oil pressure and coolant temp. These sending units also have specialized wire whips that are in soft, pliable, black conduit and run from each sensor to the I/O box. At some point, you would have to vary slightly from that factory OEM look for certain things. It depends on how "original" you want it to look.

If you would like pics of the I/O box or have any other questions---let me know. I do love my DD cluster in the 442 and the ones I have installed for others.

Dave

Loaded68W34

That could be a good option as well or you could solder the wires direcly to the factory female connectors as long as you don't get any solder in the female end of the terminals as that would defeat the purpose of trying to save the ends. Another usefull tip, once you have all of the connections de-pinned if you soak the copper connectors in lemon juce for a few minuites it will remove any oxidation. Then, wipe each one down with laquer thinner to remove any remaining juce, add flux, and finally solder the new wires to the crimped portion of the connector where the original wire is attached. Once you add heatshrink over that connection it should work very well.
By the way here are some shots of the backside of my dash from when I was wiring the car. Hard to see everything, but as you can see there is a lot going on.

AnDyHD

Wow! the resto-mod game has changed in 10 years.