matchek

Hi all, the power window, front passenger side doesn't go down . When I press the button, the interior light dims. I hear no noise.

When .I press the power window for the other three windows, the interior light also dims and the power windows work fine. Any idea please?

Matt

matchek

As an update, I pulled off the vinyl door panel. When I hit with switch, the interior light dims and I hear a light click. When I pulled the wire from the window motor and hit a switch, the light does not dim and I don't hear a click.

I will get a multimeter in a few hours and check the voltage. Do you know what it is supposed to be? Looks like a real job to replace the window motor. Have to remove metal door panel too?
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​​​​​​I am thinking it is the window motor or a ground.

matchek

Also these motor were replaced 25 years ago

matchek

I took a picture inside the door. It looks like if some holds the window up, I can loosen two bolts and take the window motor out.

matchek

When I put a multimeter in the window motor it dances around a bit and then settles at around 6 ohms resistance.

matchek

When I used a test light power is getting to the motor. Tried jumping directly to the motor and motor doesn't move.

I tired removing the power window motor , but there are bolts I cannot reach through the door walls to loosen them. My hunch is that I need to disconnect the guide from the window to move the window motor in a position to remove all the bolts and finally remove the motor. Anyone done this?

joe_padavano

Read the Fisher Body Manual. Removing the entire window mechanism is the preferred way to access the motor. The FBM also shows you where to drill access holes through the inner door panel to reach those otherwise hidden bolts if you do not wish to remove the mechanism.

droldsmorland

Grounds! Grounds! Grounds! then test the motor and switch amp draw. Could be deeper but let's start simple. A 50-year-old car needs all of its ground connections cleaned. There is a bunch of 'em.
With the amount of rust I see in the pic chances are good its a lost ground. Lube the window tracks as well(all window tracks). Also get something on that inner door rust before you lose the door bottoms.

matchek

Thank you very much Joe - did not think of drilling the holes. That makes the job much easier! By the way, the closest I found online is a Cardone window motor. Most of them come WITHOUT the gear. Is it easy to swap the gear or do I need to buy a new one with a new gear?

Droid - there was power to the motor with a test light. I also jumped the switch and got the same result. Just interior light dims with a faint click noise. When I jump I also get Sparks at the motor when I fiddle with the wire. If it was a ground, I would think I would get no result.

I was surprised at the rust too. I noticed reading the manual the door panel is supposed to be covered with inner plastic --- had none. Would you know where to get the best plastic replacemebt? What is the best track lubricant?

Thank you!

droldsmorland

Do some homework on rust neutralizers and zinc-rich primers and then top coat it with a good paint.
As for the plastic vapor barrier, you could try any of the resto houses; Fusick, Year One or the other GM A & B body supply houses. You can also source some heavy mil plastic and get the same results if yours aren't repopped. Those contractor trash bags at Home Deep hole could suffice. Use strip calk or gorilla tape to affix it. But that's not causing the rust. The vapor barrier keeps moisture off the cardboard door panels which prevents them from warping and growing mold.
White lithium spray grease or my favorite is Castles Muscle grease (spray, red grease).

joe_padavano

Petroleum-based lubes can cause the plastic window rollers to deteriorate. I use silicone grease on my window mechanisms to be safe.

droldsmorland

Good point Sir!

matchek

Good point Gents.

By the way, just so we are on the same page, the rust from the pics are from the *inside* of the door. Are you recommend painting/spraying the inside of the door?

matchek

Perhaps you were just talking about painting the new window motor?

After thought, the rust inside the door may have come from rain through deteriorated window stripping when my Dad left it outside in the 90's - it has been garaged kept for the last 15 years though. I replaced the stripping a couple of years ago in case I'm caught in the rain.

droldsmorland

Yes. Kill the rust on the inside of the door skin then coat with something to prevent it from coming back.