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My comments are relative to my 1970. I would assume 1971 is similar.
If the sockets are completely shot, I don't know of a way to replace them within their housings. You would need to get complete new housing assemblies.
My sockets were okay, but wires were frozen into the backside rubber boots. These wires are supposed to slide freely back and forth in the boot, in coordination with the inside spring. I wiggled mine back and forth, eventually getting the socket end of the wire (with it's spring and little brass pad) to extend a few inches out of the socket so you can work on it. Then, I used sandpaper to sand down the wire insulation a little bit, so that it could slide in and out of the boot. Also used some WD40. I replaced one spring with a small one from the hardware store (twisted it on from one end of the spring). You might even be able to use a pen spring. If socket wire is beyond repair, I've heard they can be purchased and then spliced back into your harness. I did not need this so didn't research where to purchase.
I restored my tail light housing and installed new buld sockets
Spoiler
Sorry im years late but maybe this will help someone else. I restored my 72 tail light housings and installed new buld sockets because my sockets were corroded and they came out great! I used a pair of wire cutters and gently pried up the old socket where it's pressed in or flared out rather and bought some new 3/4 doorman 1157 bulb sockets and straightened out the tabs because they come flared out and slid them in took a punch and hammer bent the tabs so they hold the socket to the housing and that's it! Of coarse make sure you strip the area to the metal clean where the socket go's in cause that's your ground After Before Before After After Before After After After
Last edited by Dans72; March 5th, 2021 at 08:00 PM.
Sorry im years late but maybe this will help someone else. I restored my 72 tail light housings and installed new buld sockets because my sockets were corroded and they came out great! I used a pair of wire cutters and gently pried up the old socket where it's pressed in or flared out rather and bought some new 3/4 doorman 1157 bulb sockets and straightened out the tabs because they come flared out and slid them in took a punch and hammer bent the tabs so they hold the socket to the housing and that's it! Of coarse make sure you strip the area to the metal clean where the socket go's in cause that's your ground After Before Before After After Before After After After
Im assuming you wrapped or covered the exposed wires? If not have you had any problems with moisture and or ground issues? I'm doing the same thing right now but I have a set of new sockets for a 68 i won't be using from the american auto wire kit, I wonder if I could just drill bigger holes in the housing and use them
Im assuming you wrapped or covered the exposed wires? If not have you had any problems with moisture and or ground issues? I'm doing the same thing right now but I have a set of new sockets for a 68 i won't be using from the american auto wire kit, I wonder if I could just drill bigger holes in the housing and use them
I would not hold my breath for a response as the user has not logged into the website for nearly 1.5 years - Last Activity: May 10th, 2022 03:23 PM.
Thanks, Chief, obviously I'm not holding my breath but it's worth a shot.
They sell sockets at nearly all auto parts stores. On my '71 CS convertible I simply cut the wires in the back (behind bumper), removed the lens(es), used a pair of dykes, screwdriver, etc. and yanked the OEM sockets right out of the hole. Sandpaper cleaned up the holes to ensure a good socket ground, then installed new replacement sockets. All you need to do is bend over (crimp) ~10-15 of those little metal strips then splice in your wiring. Really a simple job.
Get the socket w/ the wires. The wires will have the spring loaded contact wire in it. Most automotive parts stores carry the x2 contact standard 1157 (x2 filament bulb) socket. Rip out the old one insert a new one. I guess there are only six tabs which need to be bent over after you slide the new socket into the hole. Don't forget to sandpaper along the edges of each hole where the new socket gets inserted as this contact point (edge of the hole) is the grounding point for the socket & bulb.
I was searching for this style on-line for you - kind of hard to locate unless using the correct terms. I searched on 1157 pigtail socket and finally found them. https://www.autozone.com/power-tools...ket/600544_0_0
I've also seen repair kits that have the wire, contact, tension spring and fiber insulator. I've bought those simply for the new spring and insulator and repaired the factory wiring to keep the colors and socket orientation correct.
Always a good idea to keep some type of grease in the socket to retard corrosion. White grease, SuperLube, even a dab of vaseline.
I've also seen repair kits that have the wire, contact, tension spring and fiber insulator. I've bought those simply for the new spring and insulator and repaired the factory wiring to keep the colors and socket orientation correct.
Always a good idea to keep some type of grease in the socket to retard corrosion. White grease, SuperLube, even a dab of vaseline.
Thank you for your time and research. I've got an extra housing that I'm just playing around with. My American auto wire kit came with 4 sockets for a 68. My car is a 72. I'm just gonna clean up my sockets and replace the wiring but I really prefer the way the bulb 68 clicks in that socket and as you mentioned the wires match. I don't like the fitment (bending the tabs) for new sockets but if I drill the housing to use the 68s I imagine it won't be as tight as I'd like either. I have too much time on my hands lol I really appreciate your input.
I just did a tail light resto on my 442 convertible project. I used the socket pictured in the previous post which is an S91 by Standard Motor Products. My goal was to fit some LED bulbs to have brighter brake lights; the LED bulbs have a much faster response time as well. None of the LED bulbs I tested would fit into the bulb sockets of the stock tail light housings and the pins inside the sockets were broken or missing so a complete rebuild was in order. The brightest LED bulb I tested was made by Phinlion and sold on Amazon.com; it has a whopping 100 SMD3014 chips around the sides and 3 SMD2835 chips on the tip. There is not as much difference in the brightness between the low and the hi setting, but the hi output for brake lights is impressive.
Here is a link to my build thread, the tail light resto is on page 9, post 346, pics of the LED bulbs are on post 350.
I just did a tail light resto on my 442 convertible project. I used the socket pictured in the previous post which is an S91 by Standard Motor Products. My goal was to fit some LED bulbs to have brighter brake lights; the LED bulbs have a much faster response time as well. None of the LED bulbs I tested would fit into the bulb sockets of the stock tail light housings and the pins inside the sockets were broken or missing so a complete rebuild was in order. The brightest LED bulb I tested was made by Phinlion and sold on Amazon.com; it has a whopping 100 SMD3014 chips around the sides and 3 SMD2835 chips on the tip. There is not as much difference in the brightness between the low and the hi setting, but the hi output for brake lights is impressive.
Here is a link to my build thread, the tail light resto is on page 9, post 346, pics of the LED bulbs are on post 350.
Im assuming you wrapped or covered the exposed wires? If not have you had any problems with moisture and or ground issues? I'm doing the same thing right now but I have a set of new sockets for a 68 i won't be using from the american auto wire kit, I wonder if I could just drill bigger holes in the housing and use them
yes, I stripped the wires coming from the stock wiring harness and soldered the new ones together finishing it off with shrink wrap. I also put some silicone around the base and right where the wires come out just to prevent water from potentially leaking through and it’s held up wonderfully! I pulled the cover off recently to replace a blown bulb and its held up with no leaks
I haven’t had any moisture issues either, I only replaced the one bulb and the one that blew was one I had found in my brothers car on the floor board lol but I haven’t had to replace any of the new bulbs I put in since doing the restoration so, she’s still holding up! hope this helps
May 14th, 2018, 04:25 AM
hope this helps
