Uncle Hulka

I'm hoping someone here might be able to help me with this. I have a 1969 Cutlass S that was originally equipped with AC. Some time ago I replaced the original 350 with a 1969 455 from an AC car (so it had all the necessary brackets I needed).

I have removed all the related components in the engine compartment (compressor, condenser, evaporator). With the compressor removed, all the remaining engine-mounted accessories (power steering pump and alternator) are located on the driver side of the engine, leaving the pass-side empty and (at least, visually) unbalanced.

I have a spare 400 out of a '68 non-AC 4-4-2. It has all the brackets and hardware I would need to mount my alternator on the passenger-side of my engine, so it would look correct for a non-AC Cutlass.

My question is about the electrical wiring. I want this to look correct. Does anyone make/sell the proper wiring and/or harness that would be used on a non-AC '69 4-4-2? Is there more to this than I am imagining? I can't be the first person who wanted to do the same thing. If anyone here has done this conversion I would love to hear any insights or advice from you.

Thanks very much,
Uncle Hulka

joe_padavano

There is far LESS to this than you are imagining. Simply route the alternator wires to the other side of the engine. Extend as required. Problem solved.

Yes, someone has done this before. That would be the factory, on every single non-A/C car built.

Uncle Hulka

Thanks for the reply, Joe.
The wires going to my alternator are extremely short and would not reach anywhere near to the non-AC alternator location. I understand how to extend wires. As there is some significant current involved, I was hoping to use a factory-style harness made specifically for this purpose. If no one makes such an item, I'll extend as needed. I just want it to look like the factory did it, that's all.

joe_padavano

The alternator wires are part of the engine harness. You can buy a repro engine harness for a non-A/C car. It won't be cheap and it requires you to swap out the entire engine harness under the hood from the firewall connector out. This is why I suggested simply extending the wires. Use the same gauge wire, solder and shrink sleeve the joints, and the electrons won't know the difference. If you REALLY care about appearances, you can remove the voltage regulator connector, remove the terminals with the wires for the two wires that run to the alternator, and replace them with longer ones completely from terminal-to-terminal. Then replace the large red wire that runs from the threaded BATT terminal on the alternator to the horn relay.

Uncle Hulka

Once again, Joe, you go right to the crux of the issue. I didn't (but should've) realize that the alternator harness was integral to the engine wiring harness. That was my hang-up. Replacing the entire harness is not an option. I'll extend the wires (or course using similar gage wire) and make it look as factory correct as possible.

Thanks, Joe!

stellar

You have to love Joe. I know I do. He is correct 99.99999% of the time and gets right to the point.