jc1671

Hi - could someone help with the fuse diagram for a 70 cutlass supreme? I don't have the manual and the names on fuse box are unreadable. Thanks in advance!

Is the the Haz. IGN 4 amps?

svnt442

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Fun71

This may help also:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rol-power.html

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jc1671

Thanks - do you know the amp for the HAZ/IGN? The last fuse which is smaller than the others, is that a 4 amp?

svnt442

svnt442

That little socket it for inst/lamps and is 4 amps.

jc1671

thanks everyone for your help.
Which one of these fuses would control the interior/dome lights? My interior lights will not turn off so I think the Door Jam switch is broken so until I can replace the door switch I tried removing each fuse to see if that would power off the lights but that did not work so I actually had to disconnect the battery.

oldcutlass

Are you sure the **** on the headlight switch is not turned all the way to the left?

jc1671

Yes, the headlight **** was turned off. Do you know which Fuse would control the dome lights?
Also, have you encountered this sort of issue and do you think it is the Door Jamb switch that is busted? I am about to order one to start there. Thanks for the help!

oldcutlass

The one labelled clk, ltr, ctsy second one down on the left.

jc1671

Believe it or not but I removed the fuse recommended and the dome lights still on when door is closed so I removed each fuse and none of them turned the lights off. Any other suggestion? Thanks.

oldcutlass

Is the clock still running? Does the cig lighter work? BTW the 4A fuse is for the panel lights.

svnt442

I think the one you want is the second 25A fuse on the left (CLK LTR CTSY)

jc1671

Yes, the CLK LTR CTSY fuse is the one I removed first and the interior dome lights still on so even after removing each fuse I could not get to turn off the lights. The CLK LTR CTSY did turn off the cluster panel lights. I guess I can try removing each fuse again.

oldcutlass

You mean the instrument cluster lights (speedometer, etc)? If so thats not the fuse.

jc1671

No, my issue is not with the cluster lights. It is the dome lights that turns on when the car door is opened. Do you think the issue is tied to the Door Jam Switch? I will order one to see if that takes care of the issue. Any other suggestion? Still dumb founded that the interior lights are not tied to any fuse, at least in my car it seems.

oldcutlass

I would not order anything yet. If you pulled all the fuses the courtesy lights should have turned off. There is one power source to all the courtesy lights and multiple switched grounds.

jc1671

Last time I removed each fuse individually and put it back as I saw that it did not turn off the lights including the CLK LTR CTSY.
This time I removed all the fuses, cleaned up the housing a bit and then added one at a time and that did the trick, the CLK LTR CTSY is the one for the dome/courtesy lights. Having found the right fuse and seeing that removing it keeps the lights off do you think that it is safe to say that the issue is with the Door Jamb Switch?

Also, any tricks on removing these darn fuses? They are really tough to take out and I ended up breaking 3 of them.
As always, thank you!

oldcutlass

The auto parts store should sell a glass fuse removal tool. I carefully use a jewelers screwdriver. Pull the kick panels and disconnect the right and left pin switches from the back with the doors closed to see which is the offending culprit. If neither one with the wires disconnected causes the courtesy lights to go off then you have a short to ground in the white wire somewhere.

jc1671

I actually removed the door jamb switch and the lights did not turn off, should I still try your route of removing the kick panels?

oldcutlass

The problem with removing the switch with the wires still attached is you take the chance of twisting the connections off. Since the one switch did not turn the lights off check the other one/s. There is a switch in each door jamb.

jc1671

So I removed both door jamb switches, closed the doors added the fuse and the darn lights still on. Does that qualify as a short?
How does removing the door switch help the case if there is nothing to make contact when closing the door? Also one of the switches only has two male pins while the other had 3, would that be an issue? I wound not think so since its been like that since I bought the car but just curious.

oldcutlass

Did you unplug the wires from the switches?

Yellowstatue

The driver side switch has three wires, one of which activates 'the key in the ignition' warning buzzer.

cjsdad

The driver's side door switch should have three wires and two male pins on it. The white wires on the driver's side will be crimped together on one connector and the key buzzer wire will be on the other connector. The white wires will be the switched lead for the interior lights. There should be only one white wire on the passenger door switch. The white wire also connects to the light switch in your dash. If the white wire is connected to ground at any point it will keep the interior lights on. It is possible that the light switch has failed and is shorted internally keeping them on. When you pulled the driver's side switch, did you try pushing the switch in? The courtesy light wire can ground through the key buzzer circuit. Another place I have seen the white wire shorted out is under the dome light itself. If someone has removed the light socket from the roof of the car it is possible they managed to get the white wire pinched under the screws that hold it. The white wire also runs down the front A pillar, someone may have installed too long screws and possibly punctured the wire. Lots of possibilities for where the white wire can be shorted.

jc1671

I will try to answer all questions,
Yes when I removed the fame switch I actually unplugged the switch from the male pins.
The driver side has 3 male pins and not 2 as pointed out by CJSDAD and the passenger side has 2 male pins. I did press on the switch once removed from the door and nothing happened.
However When I removed the driver side switch, unplugged the switch from the wire and toggled on the wires the lights did flick a bit but then stopped and I have not been able to replicate the flicking again.
Now my headliner was changed 2 weeks ago so now I am wondering if that has anything to do with it since CJSDAD mentioned possible issue with some light socket once removed, but if that is the case shouldn't I have seen the issue as soon as I got the car instead of week later?

oldcutlass

If you unplugged all the wires from the switches, then pull the lens out of the courtesy light and unscrew the housing off its mount. See if the light goes out.

cjsdad

If the white wire was only pinched under a screw it may take a while for the insulation to squeeze away and let the copper wire touch ground.

svnt442

At this point I might be worried about a cross circuit within the fuse box itself. The thing is 47 years old after all and it might be time for a replacement. Unfortunately (or fortunately) that would require replacing the dash harness as that is how it comes.

cjsdad

I don't understand that. Unless the fuse panel has been molested in an unnatural way there is no way for the wires to cross themselves. A wiring harness is a non-wear item. It cannot cross connect a circuit without human interference. Most wiring mishaps occur in the stereo and underhood areas so unless there has been any other work done lately under the dash the courtesy light wiring CANNOT damage itself in any way. It requires active participation. If the headliner was replaced and the dome light begins acting up, there is a problem in the headliner area.

svnt442

If water got in there and caused corrosion of the copper parts, then yes there could be a crossed circuit.
If a hot had grounded somewhere in the harness it would be blowing fuses, not causing the lights to stay on.
That circuit is getting power from somewhere that it's not supposed to be and to me the fuse panel is a likely culprit at this stage of the game.

cjsdad

The problem with the OP's vehicle is the courtesy lighting. They always have power, it wouldn't matter to the light circuit if the power wires were burnt and crossed and he didn't mention any blown fuses. But they worked fine before the new headliner was installed. What is wrong is what is new! The switched portion of the circuit is in the grounding side. That doesn't run through the fuse box.

jc1671

I unscrewed the courtersy light dome and pulled out the housing and right there could not see any wires being pinched. I tried it again with the dome housing pulled out and lights stayed on.
what I find odd is that when I first unscrewed the driver jamb switch and pulled/twisted the wires a bit the courtesy lights flickered so shouldn't that indicate the issue could be with the wiring on that area?
I traced the wires from the Jamb switch to under the dash harness which was not an easy task and noticed that the 3 wires from the jamb switch are connected to 3 others wires that I assume goes to light switch, is this correct? The issue that I noticed is that they are connected with electrical tape, is that how these wires are supposed to be connected? Could that be the issue, but again that area would not have been touched, to make matters worst is that I don't have enough space to pull these wires, remove the electrical tape and make sure all wires are connected.
CJSDADA, if you believe it's the issue is related to the headliner, why would it take a week for the problem to appear? and does that mean I have to remove the headliner to see if any wires is pinched?
Guys, I can't thank you enough for your input.

cjsdad

If the wires that are connected together are white, you shouldn't have any issues with that. If they are different colors, that could be a problem. Pictures are awesome for troubleshooting over the internet.

Your courtesy lights have worked correctly for 47 years now, yes? You mentioned that you had a new headliner installed and two weeks later you have issues with your courtesy lighting. What is wrong is what is new! Interior wiring does not get damaged without help. Switches can go bad, but not wiring. There are lots of places that your courtesy light wires can get pinched by the header bows and screws that are needed to be removed to install said headliner. If the wires were just pinched it can take a while for the metal to cut or smash through the insulation and short out. With the dome light removed, were you able to pull the wiring and hear it move all the way down the A Pillar? Have you disconnected it from the headlight switch and tried it? If you cannot find the short, take it back to the headliner shop and have them take a look at it. They will be familiar with troubleshooting mystery dome light issues!

oldcutlass

Separate all the wires at the door switches so none are connected to each other.

jc1671

The headliner installer told me that 99% of the time he comes accross these issues the problem is with the door jamb switch so for me to take care of that first so I will have to order the part to apease him and rule that out.
As far as the wires (2 whites and 1 black) from the door switch are connected to each other and then to another set of wires, I don't have any room to take them apart and split them so I will try the headliner route and see where that takes.
As you guys have experienced now it becomes a point game where the headliner installer will not want to touch it until I rule out all options.
I will keep you posted, thanks.

jharsh

I am a little confused in all this, so please correct me if I am wrong, but can't the Dome light harness be unplugged from inside the trunk and checked for voltage and grounds?

oldcutlass

Again if you look at the diagram, you need to separate the all the wires from the door jamb switches and see if the light goes out. You can splice/solder them back later to see if the light goes out. If it does not then the problem is between the switches and the dome light. I would not buy door jamb switches yet because they might not be bad as the light stays on with them disconnected from the body.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...x=0&ajaxhist=0

cjsdad

Why would you suggest he violate a perfectly good wiring harness for troubleshooting? As I said before, wiring harnesses do not go bad by themselves! They have to have human interference to malfunction! Switches can go bad because they are a wear item. The OP has already stated that he disconnected the wiring from the door switches and the lighting issue remained. New switches would ensure that they continue to work for another 47 years but other than that they have been ruled out as the culprit.

JC, have you disconnected the white wire from the headlight switch yet? There is a circuit on that switch that will turn the courtesy lighting on and off and it most definitely can go bad You have ruled out the door switches so if the headlight switch does not prove to be the issue, I would take it back to the headliner installer and explain that your light system worked perfectly for 47 years and he was the last person to work on the vehicle. What is wrong is what is new! Tell him to find the problem and PROVE to you that it was not his fault or you will cancel his payment! Unless you paid in cash, then you're screwed.

oldcutlass

He is not violating the harness, he is isolating which leg of the circuit is causing the light to stay on. With all the legs still connected and the 2 switches not connected to ground, thats the only way to isolate which wire is shorted to ground. I have to disagree, wiring does go bad. I don't blame the installer for not wanting to take the headliner down without proof there is an issue. The OP can prove which wire is causing this before tearing the car apart.