power windows stopped working
#41
you're probably all tired of hearing from me however I went to the auto parts store, told them what I needed and bought the relay. I connected it per the instructions provided here to no avail. If I connect the orange and red wires together the windows will work but not when connected through the relay. I have two pink wires that would be the only thing that could be throwing me off but again I followed the directions using the color wires and numbers on the relay.
#42
you're probably all tired of hearing from me however I went to the auto parts store, told them what I needed and bought the relay. I connected it per the instructions provided here to no avail. If I connect the orange and red wires together the windows will work but not when connected through the relay. I have two pink wires that would be the only thing that could be throwing me off but again I followed the directions using the color wires and numbers on the relay.
#43
One more time:
Only one pink wire goes to the relay coil - and verify that the pink wire has power when the key is in RUN. The other leg of the relay coil MUST be connected to ground - otherwise the relay will not energize.
And also again, you will need to make a new wire for the ground. The old ground was provided by the metal bracket on the OEM relay. This plastic relay obviously can't do that, thus you need to run a new wire to ground.
Only one pink wire goes to the relay coil - and verify that the pink wire has power when the key is in RUN. The other leg of the relay coil MUST be connected to ground - otherwise the relay will not energize.
And also again, you will need to make a new wire for the ground. The old ground was provided by the metal bracket on the OEM relay. This plastic relay obviously can't do that, thus you need to run a new wire to ground.
#45
One more time:
Only one pink wire goes to the relay coil - and verify that the pink wire has power when the key is in RUN. The other leg of the relay coil MUST be connected to ground - otherwise the relay will not energize.
And also again, you will need to make a new wire for the ground. The old ground was provided by the metal bracket on the OEM relay. This plastic relay obviously can't do that, thus you need to run a new wire to ground.
Only one pink wire goes to the relay coil - and verify that the pink wire has power when the key is in RUN. The other leg of the relay coil MUST be connected to ground - otherwise the relay will not energize.
And also again, you will need to make a new wire for the ground. The old ground was provided by the metal bracket on the OEM relay. This plastic relay obviously can't do that, thus you need to run a new wire to ground.
#47
Just to be clear:
The two pink wires were originally connected to the same terminal
but then you cut off the terminal (which wasn't necessary, as it would have fit onto the relay spade lug just fine)
and separated the two wires, connecting them to either side of the relay's pull-in coil, which cannot activate the relay, as one side of the coil must be connected to +12v, and the other side to 0v (or -12v, or ground, depending on how you want to refer to it) in order for the relay to pull in (and, no, it doesn't matter which terminal is (+) and which one is (-)).
Look at the diagram on the relay and think about what you did. Draw it out if necessary - until you understand it (when you get it, ti will be obvious). That way, you'll always understand it from here out, and you won't have a problem with it again.
Also, when you have a chance, gently straighten out the retaining fingers on the relay cover and remove it, and look at the relay - it may have burned contacts, and if so, a little work with a piece of sandpaper may make it work fine again.
- Eric
The two pink wires were originally connected to the same terminal
but then you cut off the terminal (which wasn't necessary, as it would have fit onto the relay spade lug just fine)
and separated the two wires, connecting them to either side of the relay's pull-in coil, which cannot activate the relay, as one side of the coil must be connected to +12v, and the other side to 0v (or -12v, or ground, depending on how you want to refer to it) in order for the relay to pull in (and, no, it doesn't matter which terminal is (+) and which one is (-)).
Look at the diagram on the relay and think about what you did. Draw it out if necessary - until you understand it (when you get it, ti will be obvious). That way, you'll always understand it from here out, and you won't have a problem with it again.
Also, when you have a chance, gently straighten out the retaining fingers on the relay cover and remove it, and look at the relay - it may have burned contacts, and if so, a little work with a piece of sandpaper may make it work fine again.
- Eric
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October 3rd, 2011 07:50 PM