72455

With all the recent chatter on here about rally pics, tachs and the like, I figured it was time to see if I could get the dash clock working in my 72 Supreme.

I was wondering what the common problems could be and some possible fixes. I know the fuse is good, so I've already ruled that out.

Thanks,
Dave

mrolds69

Original clocks always have the same problem(s). There is a set of points inside them, like ignition points. They open and close maybe 6 times an hour...since 1972. Eventually, they burn and don't work right. You can file the points and the clock will probably work ok for a while. Naturally, you would have to clean + lube the gears and parts, too. If you are mechanically inclined, you can probably get it going. My advice is to convert to quartz, it will keep excellent time and be done forever. There is a member here who does them...oldspackrat...maybe he can exchange + $ for a rebuilt clock. That particular clock is not extremely difficult to do yourself.

Cutlassfarmer

72455

Are the points interrnal or external?

mrolds69

The points are internal, you usually have to take it apart to get at them. But not always. As for how to remove the clock(s). It depends on the year, make, and model. The 72 Cutlass clock is easy because it's big, and comes out easy. A rally Pac clock is harder. Some clocks are tiny, hard to work on, and hard to remove. Here's part 1 of a short tutorial, you can see the points.

72455

If I can get mine working, any idea how long it will be until I have to do it again?

bry593

Don't bother fixing your old movement. It was never that good from the factory (although I do like that thump noise every time it winds). I had my '70 Chevy converted to quartz from solenoid wind about 5 years ago. It keeps perfect time even when the battery is low. The current draw is maybe 1/10th of what the solenoid required. I expect it to last 20 years or so.

I didn't realize Scott was doing the conversions, but I do know Scott and I would not hesitate to send him my clock and will most likely do so as my 442 needs a convert.

As for getting the clock out of a '68 or '69 (my experience), you remove two 1/4" screws with a 1/4" ratchet, disconnect the power wire and the lamp subharness from the main harness. At this point, according to the CSM, it slides out the front. However, I took mine out from behind the dash.

Cutlassfarmer

bry593

Today, I sent my clock off to Instrument Services in IL. They will convert it quartz (Borg clock), clean it, paint the needle and polish the lens for $110. Can't beat a deal like that!

Fun71

It's easy. This is what I recall from the 1980s, which was the last time I had a clock in the dash (I replaced the non-op clock with a tach):
Remove four screws that hold the gauge face plate in (two on the underside of the upper horizontal surface above the gauges, two underneath that also hold the blue lenses to the dash.
Remove the gauge face plate.
Remove the 1/4" (?) sheet metal screws holding the clock in the dash opening.
Take the clock out and disconnect the wires from the back of it.

VC455

The answer depends on how well you maintain battery voltage over time.

Most often, the factor that causes the points to fail is low battery voltage. As the winder mechanism runs down, the points are supposed to close briefly and activate an electromagnet that winds the mechanism and separates the points. If a battery is allowed to run down, there gets to be a situation where there is not quite enough current to separate the points. The current continues through the points, heats them, and causes them to fail.

If your car is not run frequently, use a battery charger or disconnect a cable. You probably will never have to file the points again in your lifetime.