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George I moved your post because its a completely different subject. There are several ways to do this. You can use a blocking diode, a relay, an if your running an HEI you can do away with the bypass wire completely.
Figured after it was mechanically worked out( phew, that was a process), others would like to see it electrically connected. Wiring diagram for points/ conversion kit distributor showing relay/diode hook-up? Difference because of having a HEI instead? Assume MSD dizzy is hooked up the same as an HEI? Which small wire/color goes to mini starter and which small wire/color is left off? Thanks for taking care of me and my post.
The small wire color left off or have a blocking diode installed would be the yellow wire. The purple still goes to the S terminal on the mini starter. If using a blocking diode then both wires would be installed on the S terminal.
I know this is a 66 diagram but the start circuit is the same.
I prefer to use a Ford Starter relay because its made for the task as below (make believe the R terminal on the starter is not there) This will also eliminate the dreaded hot start issue.:
You only need to connect your ignition key on resistor or 12ga wire to the I terminal on the relay for it to stay running with the key on. There are many ways to do this and others will suggest using a small 30A relay.
Man o man! That was excellent. Even this old, 30 year, retired U.S. Navy Master Chief can follow that. Thanks so much for the diagrams and explanations. That's going in my archive.
I prefer to use a Ford Starter relay because its made for the task
No, it really isn't. The Ford starter solenoid is designed for the Ford self-energizing starter. GM starters use the body-mounted solenoid to physically push the starter drive into engagement with the flywheel. Ford starters use a different style Bendix drive that do not require this.
There are many ways to do this and others will suggest using a small 30A relay.
Yeah, that would be me. The fallacy of the Ford solenoid scheme is that you STILL have the GM solenoid in series. All you are doing is adding an additional set of contacts to wear our and an additional set of connections to corrode. The contacts inside the GM solenoid must still carry all the current from the battery to the starter motor. If they are pitted or worn, fix that, don't bandaid the problem. The real issue with the GM starter is the resistance in the starter circuit and the resulting voltage drop in the wiring.
The issue we are trying to overcome is that the mini starter does not have a bypass wire output to provide a full 12v during start. I like the Ford solenoid because its heavy duty. Wired as above it will provide a full 12v to the S terminal circumventing all the resistance in that circuit that you stated above while also providing an output for the coil+ terminal during start on cars that this signal is dropped through the ignition switch. I've had this setup on my car for 4 years now and it works every time and I can spin my starter like an engine with the plugs removed. I also use a small 30A relay mounted next to it with a jumper from B+ to supply my HEI using the resister wire as a trigger. Instead of using the IGN terminal off the fuse box.
this is from my experiences every year clean the external ford solenoid contacts they corrode real quickly even when treated to stop it. I also only buy quality parts period. mini aluminum starters also need to be cleaned a little more corrosion sets in and creates havoc.
Last edited by jfb; August 31st, 2017 at 07:24 AM.
Reason: to add a little more to th topic.
The contacts on the Ford solenoid are sealed inside the unit. I never mess with the internals of any starter until it acts up. From my experience, if it ain't broke don't fix it.
The issue we are trying to overcome is that the mini starter does not have a bypass wire output to provide a full 12v during start.
You definitely don't need a Ford solenoid simply to provide the bypass voltage to the coil. Does the OP even have a points-style ignition? If it's HEI or a conversion, you want full time full 12V anyway. If you DO want a bypass, simply use the S terminal to trigger a small relay that provides 12V to the coil whenever the starter is engaged. No need to change the heavy battery cables, no F-word parts in an Olds, no muss, no fuss.
The biggest advantage to using a ford solenoid is no need for a continually powered battery cable running near the headers, or in the case of a trunk mounted battery a heavy gauge battery cable that is powered all the time.
The biggest advantage to using a ford solenoid is no need for a continually powered battery cable running near the headers, or in the case of a trunk mounted battery a heavy gauge battery cable that is powered all the time.
Well the heavy duty wire to the starter will only carry current when the starter is in use, but it will physically always be where it is routed.
Most every car has a big wire to the starter from the battery, but the running service circuits don't go near the exhaust anyway.
Or have I missed something?.
The biggest advantage to using a ford solenoid is no need for a continually powered battery cable running near the headers,
All that means is that the big, exciting fireworks show will happen the next time you try to start the car, instead of before that. If the battery cable gets grounded, sparks will fly at one time or another. All you are doing is changing the time that might happen. You are also increasing the number of high current connections that increases the chances of corrosion and added resistance.
August 29th, 2017, 08:56 AM
