Convertible Top Switch Issue
#1
Convertible Top Switch Issue
I just replaced my leaking convertible top cylinders and re-filled the pump/motor with ATF. As I'm trying to bleed the system, the convertible top switch keeps going out after about 5 seconds. Then after waiting about a minute or so, the switch works again, but only for 5 seconds or so. At one point i did notice a little smoke coming from the convertible top motor in back.
Anyone else have this issue? My gut tells me either the switch or motor is bad. Is there a way to test either? I'd like to avoid replacing them.
Thanks!
Anyone else have this issue? My gut tells me either the switch or motor is bad. Is there a way to test either? I'd like to avoid replacing them.
Thanks!
#4
Like Eric said, the fuse for a 68-69 is on the firewall next to the master cylinder. It's a heat contact type fuse. I doubt it's the fuse. The 68-69 switches don't do a good job of providing current to the motor. Most times it's the switch contacts that are burned up.
I'd disconnect the motor harness and run 12V+ directly to the motor to see if it solves the problem. One lead is up and the other down. Also make sure you've got the ground connected from the pump to the body. If you're getting a puff of smoke at the motor it may just be shot and when it heats up it kills it until it cools down
I'd disconnect the motor harness and run 12V+ directly to the motor to see if it solves the problem. One lead is up and the other down. Also make sure you've got the ground connected from the pump to the body. If you're getting a puff of smoke at the motor it may just be shot and when it heats up it kills it until it cools down
Last edited by allyolds68; August 25th, 2014 at 09:57 AM.
#5
Did the motor electrical circuit work correctly before you repaired the cylinders?
Like Eric said it sure sounds like a circuit breaker. Check your grounds and all the wires in the area where you were working to make sure you didn't disturb something while working on the cylinders.
Like Eric said it sure sounds like a circuit breaker. Check your grounds and all the wires in the area where you were working to make sure you didn't disturb something while working on the cylinders.
#6
Thanks for the replies guys. I will check the circuit breaker tonight. Prior to installing the new cylinders the top cut out from time to time. But I can't remember exactly, I really haven't used it in over a year. The cylinders were shot so I didn't fill the pump and just lifted it manually when I needed to.
What am I looking for with the circuit breaker? Will it go bad or is it a toggle like a house breaker, where you flip it on/off? Sorry, newbie questions I know!
-Ken
What am I looking for with the circuit breaker? Will it go bad or is it a toggle like a house breaker, where you flip it on/off? Sorry, newbie questions I know!
-Ken
#7
The circuit breaker looks just like a relay.
If you jump across the terminals and the top works, then it is likely the problem, but it is also possibly that it is tripping because of an excessive load from the motor, in which case you will need to address that.
- Eric
If you jump across the terminals and the top works, then it is likely the problem, but it is also possibly that it is tripping because of an excessive load from the motor, in which case you will need to address that.
- Eric
#8
It should be as shown on this assembly manual drawing (you do have the assembly manual, right?). If it's original it will be covered with a rubber boot. BTW this is from the 68 manual but I'm fairly sure 69 is the same (See figure 1 below). It's a heat activated breaker and because the top switch is AFTER the breaker what usually heats up is the up/down switch contacts and those usually burn out before these stupid heat breakers ever open up. There's no fuse between the switch and the motor
here's the only crappy pic I could find. It's missing the mounting case on the back
Last edited by allyolds68; August 25th, 2014 at 02:10 PM.
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