'72 Convertible Top Switch Replacement
#1
'72 Convertible Top Switch Replacement
I just took possession of a '72 Cutlass Supreme convertible which will be a long-term restoration project. As of right now, the main thing I need to do is replace the switch for the convertible top. I have the switch, but can't figure out how to get the old one out! Anybody have any tips??
#2
OK, I did a little research and found that I can access (sort of) the switch by removing the left hand gauge cluster. I was able to get one of the two mounting screws out, but the second one I can't get at until I remove the wiring harness. Anybody have a good picture of the plug or can anybody explain the best way to disconnect it other than by pulling the wires out of the plug??
I didn't know that GM employed sadistic designers when they came up with this design...
I didn't know that GM employed sadistic designers when they came up with this design...
#3
I don't have rag top problems but I have spent an inardently large amount of time under the dash to do other things, in the last year or so. I still have to grow 6 or 8 inches on my arms so I can reach that dash speaker.
If you haven't already considered it, I would recommend you remove the seats. I see from the pic's on your web page that they are buckets so a 1/2" socket will do the trick there. 4 bolts on each seat. Beware...they are heavier than they look!
It makes it a lot easier to lay on your back and work than if you have to work around the seats or I would also suspect, with your arm through a dash gauge opening.
After you take off the bottom dash molding piece and disconnect the duct work you should have relatively easy access to the switch. All screws are philips head except the last far right ( passenger side) screw which is an allen head ( if memory servers me).
You may have to remove and replace the "Top" switch by feel if you wear glasses as you will be pretty close to it and focusing with biffocules is almost impossible.
I realize that removing the guages is not a real big problem but if it were me I would go at it from the bottom. There should be enough slack on that switch wiring to detatch it and then back out from under the dash and let it dangle while you swap the wires.
BTW, if you figure out how to get to the dash speaker without me having to grow my arms, I would sure welcome the info!
If you haven't already considered it, I would recommend you remove the seats. I see from the pic's on your web page that they are buckets so a 1/2" socket will do the trick there. 4 bolts on each seat. Beware...they are heavier than they look!
It makes it a lot easier to lay on your back and work than if you have to work around the seats or I would also suspect, with your arm through a dash gauge opening.
After you take off the bottom dash molding piece and disconnect the duct work you should have relatively easy access to the switch. All screws are philips head except the last far right ( passenger side) screw which is an allen head ( if memory servers me).
You may have to remove and replace the "Top" switch by feel if you wear glasses as you will be pretty close to it and focusing with biffocules is almost impossible.
I realize that removing the guages is not a real big problem but if it were me I would go at it from the bottom. There should be enough slack on that switch wiring to detatch it and then back out from under the dash and let it dangle while you swap the wires.
BTW, if you figure out how to get to the dash speaker without me having to grow my arms, I would sure welcome the info!
#4
I'll have to pull the seat to see if that works better. If I could get that darn plug off the switch I could pretty easily get at the second 1/4" bolt head holding the switch in place.
Wish I could help you with the speaker. I know it can be done, as I did it 15-20 years ago in my old Supreme hardtop. I think I installed a pair of 3-1/2" Pioneers. No idea how I did it though. I took a look at the speaker location in the convertible and found there is no speaker there at all. I figured it was disconnected, not non-existent. I remember having to work around A/C ducting, which sucked. The convertible doesn't have A/C, so hopefully it'll be a little easier...
Wish I could help you with the speaker. I know it can be done, as I did it 15-20 years ago in my old Supreme hardtop. I think I installed a pair of 3-1/2" Pioneers. No idea how I did it though. I took a look at the speaker location in the convertible and found there is no speaker there at all. I figured it was disconnected, not non-existent. I remember having to work around A/C ducting, which sucked. The convertible doesn't have A/C, so hopefully it'll be a little easier...
#5
Top switch removal
Hi Jeff
If it would help here's a photograph of the backside of the dash. You can see the top switch with the white back with three pins on it. If I remember right it's a 1/4" socket and I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with extensions to reach it. John
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...2/P1010264.jpg
If it would help here's a photograph of the backside of the dash. You can see the top switch with the white back with three pins on it. If I remember right it's a 1/4" socket and I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with extensions to reach it. John
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...2/P1010264.jpg
#6
Thanks John. I found your picture and information which got me as far as I've gotten so far. The bolts are 1/4", but one of them is covered by the wiring harness plug. The big issue I'm having is getting the darn plug undone without breaking it. Do you know if it's just held on by friction or do you have to squeeze the side(s) to get the plug off? If I can get the plug off I can get the switch out without taking the dash apart farther.
Thanks
Thanks
#7
I've got a little update to the switch replacement. I found where the wires were disconnected to disable the switch and hooked them back up. The top went down without a problem, although the switch has a hair-trigger in the down-position. Once the top was down, I went to raise it to cycle the system a few times. No dice, the top won't go back up. In fact, when I try to raise the top the system tries to lower the top even further. I have to assume the switch is just plain toast, which I expected. Now I have to get the switch replaced so I don't leave the top down all winter.
The way I see it, I have two options. 1 is to get the switch replaced ASAP, which is probably the best thing to do. Option 2 would be to hotwire the connections to get the top back up and then worry about the switch later. The confusing thing for me is that the wires disconnected do not match the wire colors at the top's motor (red, green, and black at the motor). Under the dash is an orange wire connected directly to the fuse box, and a plug which has a purple and gray wire combination. I assume the purple and gray connect to a relay or something?? Can I easily hotwire the top by jumping 12v direct to either gray or purple?? I don't have a wiring diagram yet, and obviously need to get one. What options are available which will allow me to track this kind of stuff down on my own later on?
I've got a couple pics posted on my blog <here> which show what I'm talking about.
Thanks for all available help!
The way I see it, I have two options. 1 is to get the switch replaced ASAP, which is probably the best thing to do. Option 2 would be to hotwire the connections to get the top back up and then worry about the switch later. The confusing thing for me is that the wires disconnected do not match the wire colors at the top's motor (red, green, and black at the motor). Under the dash is an orange wire connected directly to the fuse box, and a plug which has a purple and gray wire combination. I assume the purple and gray connect to a relay or something?? Can I easily hotwire the top by jumping 12v direct to either gray or purple?? I don't have a wiring diagram yet, and obviously need to get one. What options are available which will allow me to track this kind of stuff down on my own later on?
I've got a couple pics posted on my blog <here> which show what I'm talking about.
Thanks for all available help!
#8
WooHoo! It's done! Pulling the seat gave me the rest of the room I needed to get it done. What a pain in the butt! The top works great, although there is a little rust on the bow which lays down on the top of the windshield that I'll have to take care of some day. Yay, more work.
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