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I have been away for awhile trying to make a Chevelle go away but now back to my CS and fuel gauge issues. It reads full all the time no matter what you do. I have tried all suggestions provided and all tests point to the cluster connector at circuit board. And I am trying to NOT pull the dash until all else fails. So here I am for one last quest before I remove dash. I took a pic of the fuel gauge and you can see there 3 screws (basic positions of 10, 2, and 6 o'clock) that hold it in place and under each screw head is a metal strap that I think is connected to the circuit board. Here is my thinking so tell me if I am wrong. I believe each of those straps connect to the board directly or indirectly and that connection then goes to the harness. I am thinking that 1 is a ground, 1 is a power, and 1 is from the sender. So my hopes is that someone can tell me which strap goes to which color wire and that I can jumper from that screw bypass the connector and tie into the harness and the gauge should work. RIGHT??? Sounds like a plan at least on paper? Or is there another way without removing the dash?
Last edited by Rocket Olds; March 15th, 2019 at 02:41 PM.
Reason: forgot pic
I looked at the 67 wiring diagram and my 66 dash
10 o'clock green wire white strip -- goes to the instrument 9 amp fuse
2 o'clock tan wire--- fuel tank sending unit
6 o'clock black wire ground.
If you want pictures of the circuit board , I have the dash out of the car, let me know
Thanks and that is a big help. but here is what I found so far. I have good ground at sender and verified, sender and tank are new when I bought car last year, (doesn't mean sender is good, just new) tank is full so I have not pulled sender out as of yet, I have continuity from tan wire at tank through long flat harness to dash and past the connector to the short harness that goes to the cluster, I have removed gas gauge and checked continuity between all 3 posts on gauge all good and then lightly cleaned copper strips and reinstalled gauge, I hook jumper wires to the straps at gauge then hooked green hot wire to key-on connection, hooked black wire to good ground, and connected the tan wire direct from gauge strap to the tan wire at harness thus by-passing the cluster, then turned key on and gauge did not move still reads full??? I then double checked continuity of the hot wire and it was good, then the ground wire and it was good, but when checking the tan wire the needle on ohm meter literally only moved a little, no continuity??? does any of that make sense to someone cause I was sure that bypassing the cluster would fix the issue. Thanks, Mike
If you connect the sender wire to ground, the needle will go to E. If you disconnect the sender wire then the needle will drive past F. Make sure the case of the gauge is grounded. If it does none of these things the gauge is bad.
just wanted to give a shout out to all who participated on this matter and for hanging in with me til I finally got it all worked out. With the help of knowing which wires went to which position and the expert directions on how to test and look for issues I was able to bypass the cluster and get my gas gauge working WITHOUT removing the dash. That was the whole theme I did not want to remove the dash until it was absolutely necessary. 2 other electrical issues developed after putting gas gauge back in place and I was sure it was related but was told it was just coincidental and it was. they were the high beams not working and the dash e-brake light staying on and with more of the same help I have now fixed those problems. Thank You All , Mike
March 15th, 2019, 02:27 PM
'67 Cutlass Supreme
, Mike
