Changing the carb out
July 20th, 2012, 05:05 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Changing the carb out
In an 85 delta, other than the distributor, anything I need to change out if I ditch the q-jet for an aftermarket carb?
Plan on using it on the 307, then on the 330. Probably go 600 cfm
Plan on using it on the 307, then on the 330. Probably go 600 cfm
July 20th, 2012, 08:52 PM
#2
Big Daddy No Bucks
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 891
Nothing major I can think of.
My only concern would be to address the lock up torque converter issue as I've mentioned elsewhere.
Perhaps the idle compensator as well.
I just used an older one (12V) when I did this ... just tapped into the a/c wire.
My only concern would be to address the lock up torque converter issue as I've mentioned elsewhere.
Perhaps the idle compensator as well.
I just used an older one (12V) when I did this ... just tapped into the a/c wire.
Last edited by ThePackRat; July 20th, 2012 at 08:54 PM.
July 21st, 2012, 05:55 AM
#4
Big Daddy No Bucks
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 891
Admittedly I am no CCC expert ...
But I'm pretty sure the ECM is what calls the shots on when to lock/unlock the TCC.
However in the course of doing so ...
I'd imagine not only does it use the VSS signal to choose when to lock/unlock the TCC ...
I'd think it would also use feedback from the TPS at times as well.
Therefore, once the CCC carb with the TPS in it is removed .....
I would think that would throw a monkey wrench into things.
The ECM would only know at what speed the car was moving at this point.
It would no longer have anything telling it what the position of the throttle is anymore.
This is where I believe a kit and/or an OEM TCC setup for a vehicle without an ECM would come into play.
But I'm pretty sure the ECM is what calls the shots on when to lock/unlock the TCC.
However in the course of doing so ...
I'd imagine not only does it use the VSS signal to choose when to lock/unlock the TCC ...
I'd think it would also use feedback from the TPS at times as well.
Therefore, once the CCC carb with the TPS in it is removed .....
I would think that would throw a monkey wrench into things.
The ECM would only know at what speed the car was moving at this point.
It would no longer have anything telling it what the position of the throttle is anymore.
This is where I believe a kit and/or an OEM TCC setup for a vehicle without an ECM would come into play.
July 21st, 2012, 06:32 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
But I'm pretty sure the ECM is what calls the shots on when to lock/unlock the TCC.
I'd think it would also use feedback from the TPS at times as well.
Therefore, once the CCC carb with the TPS in it is removed .....
I would think that would throw a monkey wrench into things.
The ECM would only know at what speed the car was moving at this point.
It would no longer have anything telling it what the position of the throttle is anymore.
This is where I believe a kit and/or an OEM TCC setup for a vehicle without an ECM would come into play.
I'd think it would also use feedback from the TPS at times as well.
Therefore, once the CCC carb with the TPS in it is removed .....
I would think that would throw a monkey wrench into things.
The ECM would only know at what speed the car was moving at this point.
It would no longer have anything telling it what the position of the throttle is anymore.
This is where I believe a kit and/or an OEM TCC setup for a vehicle without an ECM would come into play.
EGR will seize to function and might cause knock issues. Also, idle control unit will need to be readjusted, as the CCC controls that, too.
You will need a non CCC disty, a way to lock the TCC, and rewire the AC enable relay if you want the AC to work.
July 21st, 2012, 06:45 AM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hmmm, crap 
I hope my TC is locking up as it is right now.
Car has been running like crap, and I opened it up and wouldn't go faster than 87 MPH. That never used to be a problem before.
Lost about a second to a 1.5 seconds in the 1/4 mile, but it was super hot and humid too. I pulled a 13 second Monte Carlo, but the car usually runs in the low 12's high 11's but my buddy's dragster still ran in the low 8's all day long
I hope my TC is locking up as it is right now.
Car has been running like crap, and I opened it up and wouldn't go faster than 87 MPH. That never used to be a problem before.
Lost about a second to a 1.5 seconds in the 1/4 mile, but it was super hot and humid too. I pulled a 13 second Monte Carlo, but the car usually runs in the low 12's high 11's but my buddy's dragster still ran in the low 8's all day long
July 21st, 2012, 07:27 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Hmmmm... is my '85 442 subject to this also?
It now has a 403 running like a '77 Toro- '77 carb, vacuum and mechanical dist'r. I noticed the AC did not work now but it used to, cruise also.
How can I tell if the thing has a lockup TC- it does have the 442's OD trans- and whether or not the lockup is taking effect??
Details on the AC relay enable wiring? I probably have the '85 chassis service manual, somewhere.
It now has a 403 running like a '77 Toro- '77 carb, vacuum and mechanical dist'r. I noticed the AC did not work now but it used to, cruise also.
How can I tell if the thing has a lockup TC- it does have the 442's OD trans- and whether or not the lockup is taking effect??
Details on the AC relay enable wiring? I probably have the '85 chassis service manual, somewhere.
July 21st, 2012, 08:56 PM
#8
Kickin' It Oldschool
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Champaign-Urbana, Illinois
Posts: 422
and older gentlemen i know told me about this, i have an 85 as well =) he said if i wanted to ditch the emissions crap then i need to grab a dist and carb from a 70's model and slap it on there, then do a few other things like plug air tubes that go into the block, some computer crap has to be dealt with, im no expert but it's not a "bolt n go" mod. It will run 100% better though if you do do all that. =) You may not get as good fuel economy but hell it's a big block, what do you expect? =D
Fyi i have deleted my air pump and have just put a smaller belt to keep a/c. i blocked off the tubes and haven't had any issues with running too rich or lean. i did play with the idle set screw a teeny bit to get my idle where it should be. 108k and running strong =)
Octania,
You may need to replace all your vacuum lines, check them for dry rot =) especially near the block and carb itself, they get hot and just fall apart. I had no cruise or a/c until i replaced basically all the vacuum hoses under the hood. About 12 bucks in replacement air hose, make sure to get the right diameter hose as some are bigger than others.
Fyi i have deleted my air pump and have just put a smaller belt to keep a/c. i blocked off the tubes and haven't had any issues with running too rich or lean. i did play with the idle set screw a teeny bit to get my idle where it should be. 108k and running strong =)
Octania,
You may need to replace all your vacuum lines, check them for dry rot =) especially near the block and carb itself, they get hot and just fall apart. I had no cruise or a/c until i replaced basically all the vacuum hoses under the hood. About 12 bucks in replacement air hose, make sure to get the right diameter hose as some are bigger than others.
Last edited by bdub217; July 21st, 2012 at 08:58 PM.
July 21st, 2012, 09:16 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,703
Hmmm, crap
I hope my TC is locking up as it is right now.
Car has been running like crap, and I opened it up and wouldn't go faster than 87 MPH. That never used to be a problem before.
Lost about a second to a 1.5 seconds in the 1/4 mile, but it was super hot and humid too. I pulled a 13 second Monte Carlo, but the car usually runs in the low 12's high 11's but my buddy's dragster still ran in the low 8's all day long
I hope my TC is locking up as it is right now.
Car has been running like crap, and I opened it up and wouldn't go faster than 87 MPH. That never used to be a problem before.
Lost about a second to a 1.5 seconds in the 1/4 mile, but it was super hot and humid too. I pulled a 13 second Monte Carlo, but the car usually runs in the low 12's high 11's but my buddy's dragster still ran in the low 8's all day long
July 23rd, 2012, 11:56 PM
#15
Big Daddy No Bucks
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 891
Hmmmm... is my '85 442 subject to this also?
It now has a 403 running like a '77 Toro- '77 carb, vacuum and mechanical dist'r. I noticed the AC did not work now but it used to, cruise also.
How can I tell if the thing has a lockup TC- it does have the 442's OD trans- and whether or not the lockup is taking effect??
Details on the AC relay enable wiring? I probably have the '85 chassis service manual, somewhere.
It now has a 403 running like a '77 Toro- '77 carb, vacuum and mechanical dist'r. I noticed the AC did not work now but it used to, cruise also.
How can I tell if the thing has a lockup TC- it does have the 442's OD trans- and whether or not the lockup is taking effect??
Details on the AC relay enable wiring? I probably have the '85 chassis service manual, somewhere.
Most likely no longer working due to the non-CCC stuff.
Lockup should feel almost like another partial shift of sorts ... for lack of a better explanation.
An easy way one should be able to tell if it's working :
A working tach.
A heavy to full throttle acceleration run up to highway speeds.
By doing this heavy to full throttle ... it should keep the converter from locking up till you settle down into a steady cruise in overdrive.
Let off & settle into a steady highway cruising speed ... letting the trans naturally shift into overdrive.
Obviously the RPM's will drop when it shifts into overdrive.
Shortly thereafter ... there should be an additional RPM drop @ 300 RPM +/- IIRC.
That's where the working tach comes in handy ... this slight drop in RPM is more noticeable to some people vs others.
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