1978 Delta Royale 350 Questions ....
July 23rd, 2011, 08:02 AM
#1
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1978 Delta Royale 350 Questions ....
Thanks in advance for any help!
Just picked up a 1978 Royale, 350 Olds engine, 64K original miles, great shape & runs smooth. ( I remember going with my mother to order her one brand new when I was 18 ..
)
A) What is the proper thermostat temp rating to buy for this engine, I see various 160 thru 220 degree thermostats being sold for it ( 160, 180, 195, 205, .. ect ..)..
Also, I know it's located at the end of the hose @ the engine, anyone have a quick step-by-step for me??
B) Water leaks onto the front passenger side floor, it seems to come down the inside of the firewall when I spray a hose onto the wiper blade / screen area ... any ideas?
Just picked up a 1978 Royale, 350 Olds engine, 64K original miles, great shape & runs smooth. ( I remember going with my mother to order her one brand new when I was 18 ..
)A) What is the proper thermostat temp rating to buy for this engine, I see various 160 thru 220 degree thermostats being sold for it ( 160, 180, 195, 205, .. ect ..)..
Also, I know it's located at the end of the hose @ the engine, anyone have a quick step-by-step for me??
B) Water leaks onto the front passenger side floor, it seems to come down the inside of the firewall when I spray a hose onto the wiper blade / screen area ... any ideas?
Last edited by Blaster; July 23rd, 2011 at 09:08 AM.
July 23rd, 2011, 09:46 AM
#3
Seasoned beater pilot.
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 5,468
On the passenger side under the hood, there is a big black plastic heater box. Check the tar seams where it bolts to the firewall. You may have to re caulk it after all these years.
My recommendation for the thermostat change, is to leave that little stubby rubber hose's clamp connected to the housing when you pull it off. Disconnect it from the pump side, so you will have twisting and down force available to you.
My recommendation for the thermostat change, is to leave that little stubby rubber hose's clamp connected to the housing when you pull it off. Disconnect it from the pump side, so you will have twisting and down force available to you.
July 24th, 2011, 06:03 AM
#6
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.. Got it for $2K
Body in great shape, car had new Alternator, battery, belts, air filter, recent shocks & fairly recent tune up.
Also prev owner just had the Headliner & visors all re-done.
AC Ice cold, heat hot. I was given most of the paperwork from orig bill of sale thru recent maint. too ...
* I'll check the Heater box as mentioned for leaks ...
-- I may have more questions .
Thanks!
Body in great shape, car had new Alternator, battery, belts, air filter, recent shocks & fairly recent tune up.
Also prev owner just had the Headliner & visors all re-done.
AC Ice cold, heat hot. I was given most of the paperwork from orig bill of sale thru recent maint. too ...
* I'll check the Heater box as mentioned for leaks ...
-- I may have more questions .
Thanks!
July 25th, 2011, 06:32 AM
#7
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Are you able to explain further...?
I know to take off the top hose @ the engine, but what exactly to do after that?
July 25th, 2011, 11:59 AM
#8
There are 2 bolts holding the waterneck on the manifold. Remove them and the thermo is right under that. The hose that Jay is talking about is a hose between the water neck and the water pump. Be sure that this hose in in place BEFORE you replace the waterneck and put the spout from the waterneck in the hose first , then push the waterneck on the mani but not to knik the hose.
It sounds complated, but it's not. When you pick up a thermo, pick up a gasket too. They are like $2
It sounds complated, but it's not. When you pick up a thermo, pick up a gasket too. They are like $2
July 26th, 2011, 05:28 AM
#9
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Posts: 31
Thanks again for the info !
Other observations/questions:
* I can't believe the GM " flip/wheel" clock is still keeping great time, dead on since I got the car almost a month ago..
* Oil pressure guage, upon startup, goes all the way up to 60 & stays there, after a few mins of driving, it then seems "normal", will eventually read lower/mid numbers at idle or a stop light, & go up higher w/accelleration or higher speeds ..
* Took a very "quick look" at that heater box, didn't notice anything apparent per the firewall leak .. I' have to look further ..
* Someone told me after changing the thermostat, to leave the radiator cap off, & let the enging run up to temp, & wait until "no more bubbles" can be seen in the radiator .. Make sense / does it matter??
* There's a smell of gas that's apparent around the car, once it's running & lingers a while after shut down .. No leaks I can see, any suggestions?
* The PCV breather I believe is the open hose, going from the side of the air cleaner to the valve cover .. If I replace that with a "better" aftermarket breather, I would just simply "pull out" the current one in the cover, & pop in the new, correct? .. The aftermarket units I've seen don't connect to the air cleaner ... What about that no longer needed hose going up to/thru the air cleaner housing?
Other observations/questions:
* I can't believe the GM " flip/wheel" clock is still keeping great time, dead on since I got the car almost a month ago..
* Oil pressure guage, upon startup, goes all the way up to 60 & stays there, after a few mins of driving, it then seems "normal", will eventually read lower/mid numbers at idle or a stop light, & go up higher w/accelleration or higher speeds ..
* Took a very "quick look" at that heater box, didn't notice anything apparent per the firewall leak .. I' have to look further ..
* Someone told me after changing the thermostat, to leave the radiator cap off, & let the enging run up to temp, & wait until "no more bubbles" can be seen in the radiator .. Make sense / does it matter??
* There's a smell of gas that's apparent around the car, once it's running & lingers a while after shut down .. No leaks I can see, any suggestions?
* The PCV breather I believe is the open hose, going from the side of the air cleaner to the valve cover .. If I replace that with a "better" aftermarket breather, I would just simply "pull out" the current one in the cover, & pop in the new, correct? .. The aftermarket units I've seen don't connect to the air cleaner ... What about that no longer needed hose going up to/thru the air cleaner housing?
Last edited by Blaster; July 26th, 2011 at 05:38 AM.
July 26th, 2011, 12:41 PM
#10
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 222
Thanks again for the info !
Other observations/questions:
* I can't believe the GM " flip/wheel" clock is still keeping great time, dead on since I got the car almost a month ago..
* Oil pressure guage, upon startup, goes all the way up to 60 & stays there, after a few mins of driving, it then seems "normal", will eventually read lower/mid numbers at idle or a stop light, & go up higher w/accelleration or higher speeds ..
* Took a very "quick look" at that heater box, didn't notice anything apparent per the firewall leak .. I' have to look further ..
* Someone told me after changing the thermostat, to leave the radiator cap off, & let the enging run up to temp, & wait until "no more bubbles" can be seen in the radiator .. Make sense / does it matter??
* There's a smell of gas that's apparent around the car, once it's running & lingers a while after shut down .. No leaks I can see, any suggestions?
* The PCV breather I believe is the open hose, going from the side of the air cleaner to the valve cover .. If I replace that with a "better" aftermarket breather, I would just simply "pull out" the current one in the cover, & pop in the new, correct? .. The aftermarket units I've seen don't connect to the air cleaner ... What about that no longer needed hose going up to/thru the air cleaner housing?
Other observations/questions:
* I can't believe the GM " flip/wheel" clock is still keeping great time, dead on since I got the car almost a month ago..
* Oil pressure guage, upon startup, goes all the way up to 60 & stays there, after a few mins of driving, it then seems "normal", will eventually read lower/mid numbers at idle or a stop light, & go up higher w/accelleration or higher speeds ..
* Took a very "quick look" at that heater box, didn't notice anything apparent per the firewall leak .. I' have to look further ..
* Someone told me after changing the thermostat, to leave the radiator cap off, & let the enging run up to temp, & wait until "no more bubbles" can be seen in the radiator .. Make sense / does it matter??
* There's a smell of gas that's apparent around the car, once it's running & lingers a while after shut down .. No leaks I can see, any suggestions?
* The PCV breather I believe is the open hose, going from the side of the air cleaner to the valve cover .. If I replace that with a "better" aftermarket breather, I would just simply "pull out" the current one in the cover, & pop in the new, correct? .. The aftermarket units I've seen don't connect to the air cleaner ... What about that no longer needed hose going up to/thru the air cleaner housing?
Oil PSI Gauge - Mine too shoots up to 60 when I crank it, but after it warms up, it settles back down. On that same note, I am seeing 220-230 on the Water Temp gauge. I know this is not correct, but so I let it ride. I think I have a ground issue with the gauge cluster.
Rad/Thermostat - It's what I do, feet don't fail me now!
Gas Leak - look UNDER the car. The hoses that come out of the tank go into a set of metal lines right bast the axle. Mine were ROTTEN. Crazyboutolds also had the same issue on his 79 Holiday.
July 26th, 2011, 01:34 PM
#11
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 31
FDWheel.. Thanks for the tips!
Anyone have any insight on the PCV breather question?
PS: Also, The cruise control is not working....
The Switch on the dash lights up when turned on ... Any ideas?
Anyone have any insight on the PCV breather question?
PS: Also, The cruise control is not working....
The Switch on the dash lights up when turned on ... Any ideas?
Last edited by Blaster; July 26th, 2011 at 01:37 PM.
July 30th, 2011, 05:12 PM
#13
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Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 222
PCV....
I am doing this from the top of my mind and my mind isn't the greatest...
PCV valve is in the pass side valve cover - As seen on the pass valve cover here:
IMG00160.jpg
The oil breather is on the driver's side of the motor:
IMG00161.jpg
With those two pics out of the way... I believe the answer to your question is... You should be able to put two aftermarket breather filters on the covers.
I had an aftermarket one on for a few weeks but decided to put the cleaner back on after restoring it... Wish the camera took better pics.
I am doing this from the top of my mind and my mind isn't the greatest...
PCV valve is in the pass side valve cover - As seen on the pass valve cover here:
IMG00160.jpg
The oil breather is on the driver's side of the motor:
IMG00161.jpg
With those two pics out of the way... I believe the answer to your question is... You should be able to put two aftermarket breather filters on the covers.
I had an aftermarket one on for a few weeks but decided to put the cleaner back on after restoring it... Wish the camera took better pics.
July 30th, 2011, 05:39 PM
#14
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
VERY nice car for the dough - great score!! Working AC - WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
Find a Mr gasket hi flow t-stat at otter zone in 180*. My personal choice...
For cruise issue, connect a clean rubber hose to the big vacuum servo on top the engine and suck on the hose to see if it pulls the throttle open. Often these servos begin to leak. If the rubber is not cracked, thay can be rebuilt yourself.
Yep, you are right, except the round can at the valve cover contains a filter to keep bugs and leaves and large rocks out of. Wont remove dust and sand...
If you use an after market one, pop it in in place of the stock one and remove the pipe and grommet in the air cleaner. Store them away in case you want to revert to stock. The air cleaner hole can be plugged with a rubber plug.
Find a Mr gasket hi flow t-stat at otter zone in 180*. My personal choice...
For cruise issue, connect a clean rubber hose to the big vacuum servo on top the engine and suck on the hose to see if it pulls the throttle open. Often these servos begin to leak. If the rubber is not cracked, thay can be rebuilt yourself.
* The PCV breather I believe is the open hose, going from the side of the air cleaner to the valve cover .. If I replace that with a "better" aftermarket breather, I would just simply "pull out" the current one in the cover, & pop in the new, correct? .. The aftermarket units I've seen don't connect to the air cleaner ... What about that no longer needed hose going up to/thru the air cleaner housing?
If you use an after market one, pop it in in place of the stock one and remove the pipe and grommet in the air cleaner. Store them away in case you want to revert to stock. The air cleaner hole can be plugged with a rubber plug.
July 31st, 2011, 06:32 AM
#15
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 31
VERY nice car for the dough - great score!! Working AC - WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Find a Mr gasket hi flow t-stat at otter zone in 180*. My personal choice...
For cruise issue, connect a clean rubber hose to the big vacuum servo on top the engine and suck on the hose to see if it pulls the throttle open. Often these servos begin to leak. If the rubber is not cracked, thay can be rebuilt yourself.
Yep, you are right, except the round can at the valve cover contains a filter to keep bugs and leaves and large rocks out of. Wont remove dust and sand...
If you use an after market one, pop it in in place of the stock one and remove the pipe and grommet in the air cleaner. Store them away in case you want to revert to stock. The air cleaner hole can be plugged with a rubber plug.
Find a Mr gasket hi flow t-stat at otter zone in 180*. My personal choice...
For cruise issue, connect a clean rubber hose to the big vacuum servo on top the engine and suck on the hose to see if it pulls the throttle open. Often these servos begin to leak. If the rubber is not cracked, thay can be rebuilt yourself.
Yep, you are right, except the round can at the valve cover contains a filter to keep bugs and leaves and large rocks out of. Wont remove dust and sand...
If you use an after market one, pop it in in place of the stock one and remove the pipe and grommet in the air cleaner. Store them away in case you want to revert to stock. The air cleaner hole can be plugged with a rubber plug.
I guess there isn't a "better" aftermarket that uses the stock looking hookups ...?
My '86 Suburban chevy 305 4bbl has a white filter 'pad' on the inside of the air cleaner pipe fitting ... I'd be satisfied with one of those ...
PS: does the stock unit can @ the valve cover open up for cleaning? How?
July 31st, 2011, 09:22 AM
#16
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Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 222
Thaks for the info ...
I guess there isn't a "better" aftermarket that uses the stock looking hookups ...?
My '86 Suburban chevy 305 4bbl has a white filter 'pad' on the inside of the air cleaner pipe fitting ... I'd be satisfied with one of those ...
PS: does the stock unit can @ the valve cover open up for cleaning? How?
I guess there isn't a "better" aftermarket that uses the stock looking hookups ...?
My '86 Suburban chevy 305 4bbl has a white filter 'pad' on the inside of the air cleaner pipe fitting ... I'd be satisfied with one of those ...
PS: does the stock unit can @ the valve cover open up for cleaning? How?
The filter on the cover - toss and replace.
August 18th, 2011, 10:32 AM
#18
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 31
Updates:
_______
I found the passenger side rain leak ...
There's a black plastic piece/seam edge, that runs across under the wiper blade area, behind the screen on the outside passenger side, it had a very (very) small "bump up" allowing rain to pour in & drip down the firewall ... Sealed it up.
_____
I replaced the breather filter w/ a similar stock model ... I thought from posts here that it would only contain a screen for rocks/leaves, however I saw that they contained both a screen & a white filter pad as well ( Which was filthy black in the original unit) ...
__________
Had the gas lines from the tank changed, & almost all of the "gas odor" around the car is gone ... There's still a very slight "engine/gas" smell, occasionally noticed while driving ...
_______
I found the passenger side rain leak ...
There's a black plastic piece/seam edge, that runs across under the wiper blade area, behind the screen on the outside passenger side, it had a very (very) small "bump up" allowing rain to pour in & drip down the firewall ... Sealed it up.
_____
I replaced the breather filter w/ a similar stock model ... I thought from posts here that it would only contain a screen for rocks/leaves, however I saw that they contained both a screen & a white filter pad as well ( Which was filthy black in the original unit) ...
__________
Had the gas lines from the tank changed, & almost all of the "gas odor" around the car is gone ... There's still a very slight "engine/gas" smell, occasionally noticed while driving ...
Last edited by Blaster; August 18th, 2011 at 10:38 AM.
August 18th, 2011, 11:21 AM
#19
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Make sure you find ALL of the rubber fuel lines. I thought I had found all the ones on my 72... In restoring the engine bay, I found a forgotten ancient cracked 3" hose right behind the frame behind the RF wheelwell. It is in the main fuel supply line!
August 18th, 2011, 12:16 PM
#20
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Planet X
Posts: 67
You can still get the PCV filter which is on the driver's side. If you need to replace the rubber grommet on the air cleaner which the tube to the filter attaches, you can get a replacement from Fusicks. The grommet is for an earlier year but works just the same.
I got the filter locally at Autozone and the rubber grommet from Fusicks without modifying another solution.
I got the filter locally at Autozone and the rubber grommet from Fusicks without modifying another solution.
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