1969 Delta88 (455) - starter issue - ClassicOldsmobile.com


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Old November 13th, 2017, 01:35 PM   #1  
69 Delta Custom Holiday
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1969 Delta88 (455) - starter issue

Hi,

I have an issue with my Delta.
If the engine is cold, everything is fine and if I turn zīthe key the starter is working correct, turns the engine and my 455 is starting as it should.

But as soon as the engine is warm (e.g. after driving for 20 minutes) and I turn off the engine, the starter is not working anymore.

I thought it is the starter/solenoid itself as in warm condition there was no reaction from starter at all (not even any "click") when I turned the key.
So first thing I did was a replacement of the starter with a remanufactured one.

The new starter works also very well when the engine is cold, but when I try to start while the engine is warm, there is only a minimal turn of the starter and then a "click-click-click" sound coming from it (like the battery is weak). But some (longer) time later when the engine is cooled down again, everything is working well again and starter is turning and engine starts...

Does anybody has any idea what could cause the issue?
I have not measured the battery voltage while cranking or the voltage of the ignition circuit which is also connected to a terminal of the starter so far.

Can this issue be caused by contact issues of ignition starter Switch or neutral Switch and can this be checked if I bypass them by bridging (just shortly) direct the voltage (just shortly) from power terminal (batt or power terminal of starter) to the small signal terminal (S) on the starter (see Picture) - I assume the starter should tur (when key is in IGN lock Position) respectively starter should turn and engine should start when key is in IGN on Position. Is this correct or can I damage something if I would do that and should I try it with key in IGN off or on?

Thanks in advance for your help and advices !
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Old November 13th, 2017, 03:31 PM   #2  
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Can this issue be caused by contact issues of ignition starter Switch or neutral Switch and can this be checked if I bypass them by bridging (just shortly) direct the voltage (just shortly) from power terminal (batt or power terminal of starter) to the small signal terminal (S) on the starter (see Picture) -
Yes, this is exactly the issue. Voltage drop due to dirty/worn terminals in the ignition switch or neutral safety switch. When the starter is hot, the solenoid is much more sensitive to voltage. Also, be sure you have a correct high-torque starter for your engine. Rebuilt starters are notorious for being a mixture of parts that may or may not be correct for your application. Many rebuilders use one part number for many applications to avoid having to store a large number of slightly different starters in inventory.
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Old November 13th, 2017, 03:36 PM   #3  
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I'll ad make sure all your connections are clean and tight. Make sure the pos/neg battery cables and battery posts are also clean and tight. Check your battery voltage, should be 12.7ish, the .7 is important.
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Old November 14th, 2017, 06:49 AM   #4  
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I'll ad make sure all your connections are clean and tight. Make sure the pos/neg battery cables and battery posts are also clean and tight. Check your battery voltage, should be 12.7ish, the .7 is important.
Yes, and to expand, be sure the battery cables and connections are also in good shape. I've had battery cables that became internally corroded and caused problems like this. I recently bought zero gauge battery cables for my 67 from these guys. Very nice product.
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Old March 17th, 2018, 07:52 AM   #5  
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Where do I get a correct high torque starter for a 400?
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Old April 4th, 2018, 05:33 AM   #6  
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Yes, and to expand, be sure the battery cables and connections are also in good shape. I've had battery cables that became internally corroded and caused problems like this. I recently bought zero gauge battery cables for my 67 from these guys. Very nice product.

hey Joe,


so far I have not done anything to "Goldie" as sheīs still in the winter storage, but I plan to replace also the grund cable from bat to block and the power cable from bat to starter with new ones.
Unfortunately the winter storage is about 30km (20 mls) from here and I would have to go there to measure/ceck AWG, length and cable end (for M8 or M10 bolt) for the cables.
Therefore I would like to ask you (or anybody else) whether you can provide me this Information that I am able to order the correct cables (1969 455 engine).
Is there any other cable than the mentioned two above, that should be replaced additionally?

Last edited by snail; April 4th, 2018 at 05:39 AM.
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