Blower Switch Wiring
#1
Blower Switch Wiring
OK guys, I am no electrical genius but am trying to undo the creative wiring of the previous owner. Car is 67 Olds Delta 88 with 425 and man A/C
My blower sitch "T" plug is wired like this
Orange/Black.................Brown
................Yellow/Black
................Blue/Black
Does this seem correct to you guys?
Thanks!
My blower sitch "T" plug is wired like this
Orange/Black.................Brown
................Yellow/Black
................Blue/Black
Does this seem correct to you guys?
Thanks!
#2
Not sure if it helps, but that seems right for 1972 models.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post308282
Are there splices, cuts, or hacks?
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post308282
Are there splices, cuts, or hacks?
#3
Somewhat...
The chassis manual has a pic of the wiring but no colour coding to accompany. The only thing I can see from the diagram is that one of the two wires leaving the compressor switch together (both brown in my case) is shown to go into the bottom of the "T". Can't figure out the remaining three wires...manual does not indicate
The wiring diagram in the book shows three lines into the switch vice four so not much help.
The chassis manual has a pic of the wiring but no colour coding to accompany. The only thing I can see from the diagram is that one of the two wires leaving the compressor switch together (both brown in my case) is shown to go into the bottom of the "T". Can't figure out the remaining three wires...manual does not indicate
The wiring diagram in the book shows three lines into the switch vice four so not much help.
#4
What diagram are you looking at? The one in the electrical section only shows heater only circuits. The AC circuit diags are in the AC section of the manual.
Two of the other wires fromt he switch should go to the blower resistor unit in the evap case under the hood - look for a connector with 4 wires going into it. The other wire should go to the high speed relay.
Two of the other wires fromt he switch should go to the blower resistor unit in the evap case under the hood - look for a connector with 4 wires going into it. The other wire should go to the high speed relay.
#5
I am looking at 1B-85. The PO seems to have bypassed the master switch by wiring the 2 wires that plug into the master switch into each other. The switch looks ok to me but I will assume that he knew something as when I tried to rewire correctly, I kept shorting and blowing the fuse (hence my wondering about the blower switch wiring). In the diagram at 1B-85, one of teh twinned lines coming out of the compressor switch is shown going to the base of the "T"
To add to my misery, the heater resistor has one coil burnt through. I will snip a coil off a late model and solder it in tomorrow.
Also, I think the relay is now pooched as, after returning it to the bypass method, I can now only here a click noise from the relay box when I cycle between high and high medium. I did check the circuit breaker and fuse and they are A-ok.
The upshot to all of this is that I now have the vacuum lines figured out and my defroster and heater doors cycle correct!
I appreciate the help Rob
To add to my misery, the heater resistor has one coil burnt through. I will snip a coil off a late model and solder it in tomorrow.
Also, I think the relay is now pooched as, after returning it to the bypass method, I can now only here a click noise from the relay box when I cycle between high and high medium. I did check the circuit breaker and fuse and they are A-ok.
The upshot to all of this is that I now have the vacuum lines figured out and my defroster and heater doors cycle correct!
I appreciate the help Rob
#6
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Have a look at this. It's the AC part of the 67 Delmont 88. I think it has the info you're looking for. If you want more info, check out Wild About Cars - a free website for car enthusiasts. Info is free to use and share. Hope you resolve your problem.
#7
Allan
No link or pic of the AC part you refer to.
Upon closer inspection/troubleshooting, the blower motor connector is broken'ish inside the sealed rubber boot. I am thinking that the PO bypassed the switch because of the one burnt resisitor spool. The problem is compounded by the intermittent blower due to the dodgy connector.
No link or pic of the AC part you refer to.
Upon closer inspection/troubleshooting, the blower motor connector is broken'ish inside the sealed rubber boot. I am thinking that the PO bypassed the switch because of the one burnt resisitor spool. The problem is compounded by the intermittent blower due to the dodgy connector.
#8
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
My bad, it was getting late.
I'm going to put a couple links in here because I don't know which one will serve you the best.
Here you go: http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...ction_1-1A.pdf
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...tion_1B-1C.pdf
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...Section_1D.pdf
I'm going to put a couple links in here because I don't know which one will serve you the best.
Here you go: http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...ction_1-1A.pdf
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...tion_1B-1C.pdf
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...Section_1D.pdf
#9
Thanks Allan
I have it back running now on high power only. I know at least on of my resistor coils is snapped but at least I have a/c pumping again.
I woudl have thought I would have had at least two speeds based on only one wire being burnt but will have to experiment more with that later I suppose.
Thanks again
I have it back running now on high power only. I know at least on of my resistor coils is snapped but at least I have a/c pumping again.
I woudl have thought I would have had at least two speeds based on only one wire being burnt but will have to experiment more with that later I suppose.
Thanks again
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