Driveshaft Question
April 23rd, 2013, 06:07 AM
#81
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 330
according to this site, I need a GM 3RL, not a 1310
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...D%20Guide.html
Am I mistaken?
I am still confused about how the same part number (albeit a different brand) would have the holes and grooves (see red circles on attachment).
Is that possibly the correct part, with an additional lubrication point added? Looks to me like dirt would get in there and grind away inside.
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...D%20Guide.html
Am I mistaken?
I am still confused about how the same part number (albeit a different brand) would have the holes and grooves (see red circles on attachment).
Is that possibly the correct part, with an additional lubrication point added? Looks to me like dirt would get in there and grind away inside.
Last edited by ddd777; April 23rd, 2013 at 06:08 AM. Reason: image
April 23rd, 2013, 06:26 AM
#82
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,845
ddd777:
Everything you've posed uses the 3R ujoints within inside snap rings. The 13XX series use outside rings and the joints are obvious - there's a channel for the ring very close to the outside endge.
The channels you're seeing are the original setup from the factory that injected plastic through the holes to lock the caps in place. If you have anything with the plastic still in it, then you have to burn it out. The replacements will just use the snap rings on the inside. The channels are not for lube - the caps must be press fit into the rings. Dirt won't affect it because the caps aren't moving.
It is a little shady that you got a different brand part than advertised, but the one you got will work.
Everything you've posed uses the 3R ujoints within inside snap rings. The 13XX series use outside rings and the joints are obvious - there's a channel for the ring very close to the outside endge.
The channels you're seeing are the original setup from the factory that injected plastic through the holes to lock the caps in place. If you have anything with the plastic still in it, then you have to burn it out. The replacements will just use the snap rings on the inside. The channels are not for lube - the caps must be press fit into the rings. Dirt won't affect it because the caps aren't moving.
It is a little shady that you got a different brand part than advertised, but the one you got will work.
April 24th, 2013, 05:52 AM
#84
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 330
You have u joints with 4 inside snap rings.
You need a conversion joint in the correct size on all 4 ears.
Two ears will have outside snap rings matching the yoke you have.
Turbo 400 cars with original rear end would have 1330 series everywhere.
using a rear end from say a smaller engined car may have 1310 series u joint.
You need 1330 to 1310 conversion u joint with outside rings on the 1330 side...if indeed the shaft has the 1330 series joint...(turbo 400)
You need a conversion joint in the correct size on all 4 ears.
Two ears will have outside snap rings matching the yoke you have.
Turbo 400 cars with original rear end would have 1330 series everywhere.
using a rear end from say a smaller engined car may have 1310 series u joint.
You need 1330 to 1310 conversion u joint with outside rings on the 1330 side...if indeed the shaft has the 1330 series joint...(turbo 400)
I am under the impression that GM 3RL not 1310 is correct.
Last edited by ddd777; April 24th, 2013 at 05:58 AM.
April 24th, 2013, 05:57 AM
#85
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 330
Yes indeed. It was the rubber gasket/seals/bushings in the tail end of the transmission. It was replaced while the transmission was just being built.
April 24th, 2013, 06:36 AM
#86
XCELERATIONRULES!
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Orwell,Ohio
Posts: 323
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...D%20Guide.html
http://mdsdriveshaft.com/spicer_universal_joints.htm
http://mdsdriveshaft.com/spicer_universal_joints.htm
Last edited by Nasty455; April 24th, 2013 at 11:47 AM.
April 24th, 2013, 06:51 AM
#87
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 330
Doesn't it look like they are all 4 inside snap rings (with the plastic injection) on my original one?
April 24th, 2013, 07:15 AM
#88
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
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Original doesn't have the snap rings, just the plastic. Snap rings are for the replacement ones. You can actually see the tip of the plastic in your photo.
I hope that's not your yoke because it is toast. The oil seal has ground quite a deep groove in it
I hope that's not your yoke because it is toast. The oil seal has ground quite a deep groove in it
April 24th, 2013, 07:30 AM
#89
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,845
WTH is going on in here?
1330 is NOT the same as GM3RL. The page you linked to even says that!
All of the items that ddd has posted have 3RL ears.
ddd: be careful. Get this wrong and the ujoint will fly apart when you hit high speeds, dropping the driveshaft and causing massive damage. Unless you're confident, I'd suggest taking the parts to a local driveshaft place and have them review and assemble. I can't believe the amount of mis-information in the posts here.
1330 is NOT the same as GM3RL. The page you linked to even says that!
All of the items that ddd has posted have 3RL ears.
ddd: be careful. Get this wrong and the ujoint will fly apart when you hit high speeds, dropping the driveshaft and causing massive damage. Unless you're confident, I'd suggest taking the parts to a local driveshaft place and have them review and assemble. I can't believe the amount of mis-information in the posts here.
April 24th, 2013, 11:09 AM
#90
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 330
wth is going on in here?
1330 is not the same as gm3rl. The page you linked to even says that!
All of the items that ddd has posted have 3rl ears.
Ddd: Be careful. Get this wrong and the ujoint will fly apart when you hit high speeds, dropping the driveshaft and causing massive damage. Unless you're confident, i'd suggest taking the parts to a local driveshaft place and have them review and assemble. I can't believe the amount of mis-information in the posts here.
1330 is not the same as gm3rl. The page you linked to even says that!
All of the items that ddd has posted have 3rl ears.
Ddd: Be careful. Get this wrong and the ujoint will fly apart when you hit high speeds, dropping the driveshaft and causing massive damage. Unless you're confident, i'd suggest taking the parts to a local driveshaft place and have them review and assemble. I can't believe the amount of mis-information in the posts here.
April 24th, 2013, 11:55 AM
#91
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,845
Sadly, I learned that mistake from experience. When your drunk buddy mutters "man, these things don't fit right" while installing the driveshaft, it's a bad sign.
Luckily for me it was the rear joint. Destroyed the tranny but did not pole-vault the car.
Luckily for me it was the rear joint. Destroyed the tranny but did not pole-vault the car.
April 24th, 2013, 12:45 PM
#92
XCELERATIONRULES!
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Orwell,Ohio
Posts: 323
Sorry about that.
This is what happens when you mate one rear end with a different transmission,with a different u joint.
I have so many u joint numbers in my head it's ridiculous.
It would have been smarter for Gm to use the basic joint in the same car.IMHO
This is what happens when you mate one rear end with a different transmission,with a different u joint.
I have so many u joint numbers in my head it's ridiculous.
It would have been smarter for Gm to use the basic joint in the same car.IMHO
April 25th, 2013, 11:21 AM
#93
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 330
Fortunately, the guy who is going to put it in for me knows what he is doing and will let me know if it doesn't fit. Worst case is that I get set back some time.
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