Yoke on Differential case noise
June 4th, 2018, 11:00 AM
#1
Yoke on Differential case noise
Hello.
This is for Brian Trick as per our conversation, but anyone who is knowledgeable and wants to chime in can too.
As you will see by the video, there is a noise coming from the yoke that rattles at low speed and then screeches at higher speeds. I hope this video captures it well enough.
You may have to turn up the volume a bit to hear the rattle...
Thanks!
This is for Brian Trick as per our conversation, but anyone who is knowledgeable and wants to chime in can too.
As you will see by the video, there is a noise coming from the yoke that rattles at low speed and then screeches at higher speeds. I hope this video captures it well enough.
You may have to turn up the volume a bit to hear the rattle...
Thanks!
June 4th, 2018, 03:23 PM
#2
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Land of Taxes
Posts: 4,841
Yank the tires and drums and repeat what you did in the vid(do not apply the brakes or put it in drive with drums unsecured). Still hear it?
Next, pull the driveshaft, inspect both ujoints. See if anything is rolling around on the inside of the drive shaft tube. Run it in park with the driveshaft removed to eliminate the exhaust system.
Then feel the rear yoke for excessive lash and smoothness(tires and drums removed for the best effect).
Do you feel/hear anything at speed on the road? Could be the carrier bearings are going or the yoke has become loose on the pinion splines? Or the seal is flopping around Any oil leaking?
Then pull the rear diff cover and look at the condition of the fluid and for the presence of metal in the bottom of the pumpkin.
You don't hear this noise when the car is at idle in park, right?
So hard to tell without being there. The above is common sense troubleshooting elimination. Start simple work towards the complex.
Next, pull the driveshaft, inspect both ujoints. See if anything is rolling around on the inside of the drive shaft tube. Run it in park with the driveshaft removed to eliminate the exhaust system.
Then feel the rear yoke for excessive lash and smoothness(tires and drums removed for the best effect).
Do you feel/hear anything at speed on the road? Could be the carrier bearings are going or the yoke has become loose on the pinion splines? Or the seal is flopping around Any oil leaking?
Then pull the rear diff cover and look at the condition of the fluid and for the presence of metal in the bottom of the pumpkin.
You don't hear this noise when the car is at idle in park, right?
So hard to tell without being there. The above is common sense troubleshooting elimination. Start simple work towards the complex.
June 4th, 2018, 06:44 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Cobleskill NY 12043
Posts: 83
Hello.
This is for Brian Trick as per our conversation, but anyone who is knowledgeable and wants to chime in can too.
As you will see by the video, there is a noise coming from the yoke that rattles at low speed and then screeches at higher speeds. I hope this video captures it well enough.
You may have to turn up the volume a bit to hear the rattle...
Thanks!
https://youtu.be/S9ZH3hJqNG8
This is for Brian Trick as per our conversation, but anyone who is knowledgeable and wants to chime in can too.
As you will see by the video, there is a noise coming from the yoke that rattles at low speed and then screeches at higher speeds. I hope this video captures it well enough.
You may have to turn up the volume a bit to hear the rattle...
Thanks!
https://youtu.be/S9ZH3hJqNG8
Check to see if the stone deflector which is staked to the pinion yoke in 4 places has came loose and spinning independently of the yoke
June 4th, 2018, 09:24 PM
#4
The stone deflector is loose and spins freely independently of anything. I can spin it with my finger just by reaching under and spinning it with the car just sitting there not running or anything. What do I do to fix that?
June 4th, 2018, 11:03 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Richfield, Oh
Posts: 1,737
Yoke dust sheild
LOL. That is what I was going to say it was...They fall off all the time on drag race cars WE do not even install yokes with shield for drag racers...
You have to remove the yoke .
Put the yoke in a vice, position the shield back in place on the casting and stake (pointed steel punch drive it in a few spots around the shield to the casting) the shield back in place or just ditch it all together.
AS long as you do not off road you will be fine.
If you still want it maybe a few tack welds...BUT be careful not to spatter the seal surface or weld from the outer part of the shield not the under part.
Do not feel bad it does happen quite often.
Jim
J D
You have to remove the yoke .
Put the yoke in a vice, position the shield back in place on the casting and stake (pointed steel punch drive it in a few spots around the shield to the casting) the shield back in place or just ditch it all together.
AS long as you do not off road you will be fine.
If you still want it maybe a few tack welds...BUT be careful not to spatter the seal surface or weld from the outer part of the shield not the under part.
Do not feel bad it does happen quite often.
Jim
J D
Last edited by monzaz; June 4th, 2018 at 11:05 PM.
June 5th, 2018, 07:41 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Cobleskill NY 12043
Posts: 83
[QUOTE=1968CutlassSupreme;1100028]The stone deflector is loose and spins freely independently of anything. I can spin it with my finger just by reaching under and spinning it with the car just sitting there not running or anything. What do I do to fix that?[/QUOTE
You do not need to remove anything.You can do this on the car and take nothing apart.Two opposing TACK welds on the front face of the deflector to the yoke itself.Make sure you are grounded to the yoke.This will not generate enough heat to hurt the seal and the defletor shields the seal from spatter.Can't tell you how many times I've done this in 35 years of doing rears.Half hour on a lift & you're driving again.
You do not need to remove anything.You can do this on the car and take nothing apart.Two opposing TACK welds on the front face of the deflector to the yoke itself.Make sure you are grounded to the yoke.This will not generate enough heat to hurt the seal and the defletor shields the seal from spatter.Can't tell you how many times I've done this in 35 years of doing rears.Half hour on a lift & you're driving again.
June 5th, 2018, 02:48 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Cobleskill NY 12043
Posts: 83
[QUOTE=SmirchIs#1;1100105]
I would like to add;make sure this is done by someone who is a good welder.When I say TACK weld I mean roughly a half second ZZZZT.Good luck
The stone deflector is loose and spins freely independently of anything. I can spin it with my finger just by reaching under and spinning it with the car just sitting there not running or anything. What do I do to fix that?[/QUOTE
You do not need to remove anything.You can do this on the car and take nothing apart.Two opposing TACK welds on the front face of the deflector to the yoke itself.Make sure you are grounded to the yoke.This will not generate enough heat to hurt the seal and the defletor shields the seal from spatter.Can't tell you how many times I've done this in 35 years of doing rears.Half hour on a lift & you're driving again.
You do not need to remove anything.You can do this on the car and take nothing apart.Two opposing TACK welds on the front face of the deflector to the yoke itself.Make sure you are grounded to the yoke.This will not generate enough heat to hurt the seal and the defletor shields the seal from spatter.Can't tell you how many times I've done this in 35 years of doing rears.Half hour on a lift & you're driving again.
June 5th, 2018, 04:38 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: St. Paul Minnesota
Posts: 4,012
[QUOTE=SmirchIs#1;1100105]
This is CRITICAL, you don't want an arc going through bearings and races that could be bad !
The stone deflector is loose and spins freely independently of anything. I can spin it with my finger just by reaching under and spinning it with the car just sitting there not running or anything. What do I do to fix that?[/QUOTE
You do not need to remove anything.You can do this on the car and take nothing apart.Two opposing TACK welds on the front face of the deflector to the yoke itself. Make sure you are grounded to the yoke. This will not generate enough heat to hurt the seal and the defletor shields the seal from spatter.Can't tell you how many times I've done this in 35 years of doing rears.Half hour on a lift & you're driving again.
You do not need to remove anything.You can do this on the car and take nothing apart.Two opposing TACK welds on the front face of the deflector to the yoke itself. Make sure you are grounded to the yoke. This will not generate enough heat to hurt the seal and the defletor shields the seal from spatter.Can't tell you how many times I've done this in 35 years of doing rears.Half hour on a lift & you're driving again.
June 6th, 2018, 05:14 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Richfield, Oh
Posts: 1,737
Right or wrong
Well I can tell you if you were in a rush go ahead and do it on the car...BUT to be sure nothing else is screwed up I would remove the yoke and inspect before assuming things are great....
Plus the fact of the weld under a car with out a great fuel vent system...WHY take a chance.
comes do to you... your car we have given plenty of options . good luck. Jim
J D
Plus the fact of the weld under a car with out a great fuel vent system...WHY take a chance.
comes do to you... your car we have given plenty of options . good luck. Jim
J D
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
