68 cutlass rear axles leaking
#1
68 cutlass rear axles leaking
Hello, is there anyway besides replacing axles to fix the worn spots where axle meets the seal? I've replaced both seals but both still leak. I do not feel any grooves but i see 2 lines that are shiny on the axle.
#2
There are axle saver seals out there. These seals have a wider margin and put the sealing surface on a different position relative to stock seals. Some of the other members here probably have info on brands or sources.
#3
I suggest checking the bearings for wear.
The issue I had with a 68 O-Type was the bearing inner race spun on the axle shaft, which made a groove in the shaft under the race. This caused the axle shaft to move offset a slight amount and the seal was no longer in tight contact with the entire circumference of the shaft, allowing oil to leak past. I had to get another set of early style (67-69) axle shafts from Brian Trick to fix it.
As for an offset seal, I haven't heard of those for the early O-Types but that doesn't mean they don't exist, just that I haven't heard of them even during the many years I spent working at auto parts stores in the 80s.
The factory oil seal presses into the end of the axle shaft, so you could conceivably very carefully remove some material from the inner end of the metal shell so the seal sits a bit further into the end of the housing and therefore rides on a different part of the axle shaft. If there isn't a noticeable groove in the shaft this may not be the cause of the leak, though.
I would check the bearings for any movement in relation of the axle shaft to verify everything 's OK there.
The issue I had with a 68 O-Type was the bearing inner race spun on the axle shaft, which made a groove in the shaft under the race. This caused the axle shaft to move offset a slight amount and the seal was no longer in tight contact with the entire circumference of the shaft, allowing oil to leak past. I had to get another set of early style (67-69) axle shafts from Brian Trick to fix it.
As for an offset seal, I haven't heard of those for the early O-Types but that doesn't mean they don't exist, just that I haven't heard of them even during the many years I spent working at auto parts stores in the 80s.
The factory oil seal presses into the end of the axle shaft, so you could conceivably very carefully remove some material from the inner end of the metal shell so the seal sits a bit further into the end of the housing and therefore rides on a different part of the axle shaft. If there isn't a noticeable groove in the shaft this may not be the cause of the leak, though.
I would check the bearings for any movement in relation of the axle shaft to verify everything 's OK there.
Last edited by Fun71; February 11th, 2017 at 08:16 AM.
#4
Thank you for the replies. I have brand new bearings on there and new seals. The whole rear end was redone. Can I get some shims to move the seals out a 1/16 or 1/8, or would it be better to remove some of the seal surface to allow it to move further in? Does anyone know where to get these axle savers from? Thank you for the help.
#7
#10
Speedy sleeve it. Clean the axle seal surface. Polish with fine emery paper. Spray brake cleaner to remove all oily residue. Apply properly well mixed JB Weld, thinly, with a fresh utility knife blade. Wipe the JB parallel around the axle circumference just filling in the low spot. Let it set up hard. Emery it down level with the good surface. Tap speedy sleeve on. The JB prevents the speedy from transferring the low spot to the sleeve. Done this a thousand times with great success and durability. The other suggestions will work too. This is the way I like to do it.
Of course, you need the lock ring and bearing out of the way to do this.
BDI, (Bearing Distributos Inc) will have the proper range sleeve. They will also have a choice of seals, HD and regular. Go with HD. Always wipe/pack grease (or vaseline in a trans) on the back side of a seal to help retain the lip seal spring if so equipped.
And of course, always ask for USA parts as they will try to sell the chineasium first because they think everyone wants a 2 dollar cheaper bearing
http://www.bdi-usa.com/Locations.aspx
Of course, you need the lock ring and bearing out of the way to do this.
BDI, (Bearing Distributos Inc) will have the proper range sleeve. They will also have a choice of seals, HD and regular. Go with HD. Always wipe/pack grease (or vaseline in a trans) on the back side of a seal to help retain the lip seal spring if so equipped.
And of course, always ask for USA parts as they will try to sell the chineasium first because they think everyone wants a 2 dollar cheaper bearing
http://www.bdi-usa.com/Locations.aspx
#12
Speedy sleeve it. Clean the axle seal surface. Polish with fine emery paper. Spray brake cleaner to remove all oily residue. Apply properly well mixed JB Weld, thinly, with a fresh utility knife blade. Wipe the JB parallel around the axle circumference just filling in the low spot. Let it set up hard. Emery it down level with the good surface. Tap speedy sleeve on. The JB prevents the speedy from transferring the low spot to the sleeve. Done this a thousand times with great success and durability. The other suggestions will work too. This is the way I like to do it.
Of course, you need the lock ring and bearing out of the way to do this.
BDI, (Bearing Distributos Inc) will have the proper range sleeve. They will also have a choice of seals, HD and regular. Go with HD. Always wipe/pack grease (or vaseline in a trans) on the back side of a seal to help retain the lip seal spring if so equipped.
And of course, always ask for USA parts as they will try to sell the chineasium first because they think everyone wants a 2 dollar cheaper bearing
http://www.bdi-usa.com/Locations.aspx
Of course, you need the lock ring and bearing out of the way to do this.
BDI, (Bearing Distributos Inc) will have the proper range sleeve. They will also have a choice of seals, HD and regular. Go with HD. Always wipe/pack grease (or vaseline in a trans) on the back side of a seal to help retain the lip seal spring if so equipped.
And of course, always ask for USA parts as they will try to sell the chineasium first because they think everyone wants a 2 dollar cheaper bearing
http://www.bdi-usa.com/Locations.aspx
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