When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1971 442 and getting ready to install new axle bearings and seals.
I have the new style A9 bearing set. I'm not sure of how to install the seal and bearing. One picture on supercars unlimited says install the seal in the axle tube? And the bearing only has the metal plate on one side, the old one has it on both. Which side does the solid side go?
The seal in the axle tube is for the early O-Type rear end only. The 8.5" corporate 10 bolt uses a totally different bearing and seal setup. The retainer plate goes on first, the seal is pressed on next, then the bearing and its retaining collar are pressed on.
This is the pic from the Supercars Unlimited site for the 1970 O-Type. It is the same as the 71-up 10 bolt axles.
Last edited by Fun71; March 6th, 2016 at 06:57 PM.
From what I remember of my Set9 bearings, the instructions said how to determine which side faced outwards. Did your bearings come with instructions?
I remember the edge of the inner race was beveled, too, which would facilitate pressing it onto the shaft and would be a giveaway for which side faces outwards.
From what I remember of my Set9 bearings, the instructions said how to determine which side faced outwards. Did your bearings come with instructions?
I remember the edge of the inner race was beveled, too, which would facilitate pressing it onto the shaft and would be a giveaway for which side faces outwards.
I searched the net and couldn't find any installation instructions for installing the Set9 bearing. I am sure Brain (507olds) or Jim (monzaz) will be able to tell you which way is correct.
I found this from a recent discussion about Set9 bearings. Can you tell from looking at your bearing which way the rollers are leaning as shown in the lower portion of the diagram? If so, that will tell you which way the bearing should be pressed on.
TIP: YOU NEED A BEARING PRESS DRIVER... USE A hm89449 RACE SEEMS TO WORK THE BEST... REMOVE THE CAGE AND BEARINGS AND YOU HAVE OYUR TOOL FOR PUSHING ON THE AXLE BEARINGS...
Ok the way the bearing in the picture is the right side is the side that goes into the housing first. the seal will go on the left side. The retaining ring will also go on the right side .
So order on the axle would be 'RETAINing flat plate first, the seal with the open cavity side toward the bearing or up away from the retaining plate. Next the A9 tapered bearing (reference your picture flat square edge to the seal and the beveled round side to the inside of the axle tube.
NOW STOP! at this point I would fit the axle bolt it up and see what the end play feels like. REASON ...incase you bought wrong parts or something is not right you can still remove the parts. ONCE the wedding retaining ring is installed your DONE.... you will not get the seal off with out crushing it.
Finally if all checks out press the retaining ' wedding ring' on and
Your done.
Ok. I should have read your post first before I put the ring on... I guess I damaged the bearing when I installed it. The race should not be separate ... I put the axle in and way too much play . That bearing moves all over now. So I have to start over. Live and learn.
Well I think the picture I posted shows the messed up bearing. When I pressed it on it popped and then the race came off. I think that is my problem. The retainer ring is tight against the inner race but the bearing just flops around. Not good as far as I can tell.
You are fine. The race is a separate piece it is only manufactures as one for convenience of packaging....The part is scored to break apart like that .
end play can only be checked with backing plate and all bolts torqued in place.
WHY DO YOU THINK YOU RUINED THE BEARING? how was it pressed on?
Jim
Last edited by monzaz; March 7th, 2016 at 06:47 PM.
Hi all. First post here.
My 72 cutlass has a leaking axle seal so I ordered the bearing, press ring, and seal. I have the axle out and am trying to figure out what's next. I see that the stock axle bearing lock ring has a couple of stakes/dimples on it.
My question, do I grind those dimples off before I try to press the lock ring off?
You need to remove the complete retaining ring.... if your grinding be careful not to gouge into the axle shaft too much...Sometimes you will nick it here and there.
Once you weaken the ring you can pry it off with a large screw driver or ply item of your choice.
When that is out of the way you can press the rest off.
If the bearing explodes and you still have a race left on the shaft you will need to Again grind and score the race till you can get the left over parts off.
Thanks Jim. I appreciate the response. I'm fairly mechanical, have worked on bikes a bit, but this is my first car and have never had much exposure to these old ones so I'm feeling my way through several projects on this car and have made plenty of mistakes along the way. I should have come here much sooner. I do have a shop press, I'll find out soon if it has the required clearance and throw to do this job. Hopefully it will become obvious once the old bearing is off how far to push the new one on.
I assume there's a shoulder, or positive stop??
The other thing that has me confused is the load path, just thinking through it. The only thing keeping the axle from flying out (ignoring the brake disk captured in the caliper) is that thin plate with the 4 bolts and the axial load is then transferred through the oil seal, then the bearing and the press load of the bearing on the shaft, plus the press load of the retaining ring on the shaft are keeping it in. So the body of the oil seal reacts about 1/4 of the lateral force of the car when I'm going around a corner?
In the other direction, what's keeping the axle from pushing further in (ignoring the brakes and the end of the axle inside the differential) is either the press load of the bearing, or if there's a shoulder I haven't seen yet that the bearing presses up against, then it's that shoulder.
Glad you are bringing all this up... I really do not think people do enough thought into how everything works and how much load all these parts endure... Even front suspension parts like the tie rod ends etc.
Were all just flying around corners and bouncing around curbs expecting none of this stuff to ever break.
Motors, transmissions, rear ends... All the power should through them....
Just like when people take a car pulling the front tires off the ground even for a few inches ...the whole drive line and LITTLE cross piece of metal and needle bearings (u-joint) takes the whole weight and torque load of the front of the car and motor and trans etc. 1500 + pounds up off the ground... We just see it so often now and just take it all for granted. Axles-
I personally am not a fan of the tapered bearing set-up for the rear differentials. Ford has a same kind of set-up for the 9" 3.150 bearing ends to... HATE them...
I stick with the sealed ball bearing even though the longevity is less on mileage...I never have a leak issues like we get with the tapered bearing outer seal deal. Jim
JD Race
March 6th, 2016, 05:32 PM
Jim
