72 Cutlass radiator question

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Old January 6th, 2012, 08:41 PM
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72 Cutlass radiator question

My car is a 1972 Cutlass Supreme 350, auto trans, factory a/c, 49k miles. I have replaced many parts to make it a good reliable driver and I am thinking about also replacing the radiator so I dont have issues in the future. I looked in the filler neck and I only see 2 rows of tubes. Is that correct for my car? I would think it would be atleast a 3 row and I dont know if its really worth it to go to a 4 row if I replace it.

Also, what brand would you recommend for a replacement radiator? I dont think its worth recoring my 2 row if it isnt going to be enough for summer driving in a hilly area with the a/c on. Like I said I am just looking to end up with a worry free driver. Thanks
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Old January 7th, 2012, 08:03 PM
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I thought A/C cars got 3 rows. But a lot of the radiators that are sold ow are only 2 row, but they claim they cool just as well. Not sure I buy that one. a 2 or 3 row will both fit, but a 4 row will require bigger saddles and rubberseats and also a top plate with a bigger saddle and rubber seats. A 4 row has wider tanks on the sides, or you could also say wider looking at them front to back. The curved saddles and rubber seats are too narrow front to back for the 4 row to fit a 2 or 3 row top plate or bottom saddles.
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Old January 7th, 2012, 11:12 PM
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How much "worry" do you want to eliminate?? If you want to do everything reasonably possible to eliminate a future cooling problem you can go with a four row radiator and a few other changes...definitely more $$ and more work.

>Four row, good quality radiator

>A good rebuilt factory water pump with the cast iron type "closed" impeller instead a cheaper rebuilt unit with the open-finned stamped steel impeller.

>A good high flow balanced thermostat.

>Good factory type fan and fan clutch.

>Correct factory pulleys for the 4 row cooling setup if they are different from what you have currently.

You could also look into the newer "high efficiency" type radiators...ie a high efficiency 3 row setup. Don't know if the "high efficiency" angle is just a sales pitch or if it works well or not.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 12:03 AM
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High efficiency usually means more fins per inch.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 01:09 PM
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radiator

I have 1970 C/S with a/c and auto mine has the 3 row unit!
I took it to the Woodward dream cruise and had the idiot come light on.
I did the only thing smart at that time by running the heater.

The following week I pulled the radiator and took it to a radiator repair shop,
they suggested cutting the tanks off using a center section with a 3 core
but going from the O.E. 6 fins per inch to 14 fins per inch, after that no problems sitting in traffic during the cruise and watching others boil over!

Goes back to your old science class more surface area the better cooling.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 06:10 PM
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Well I want a reliable sunday driver, good for around town driving and some car shows and some cruises or what not. I already have a high quality water pump installed, new fan clutch and t-stat, factory fan and pulleys.

Just looking inside the rad its a little crudy, but not too bad for its age. But being only a 2 row I think someone replaced the factory one with this one some time ago. If it should have a 3 row with a/c then id like to get atleast a 3 row again. I cant remember what my first new '72 had with a/c but i think it was a 3 row.

Can this 2 row be recored to a 3 row or am I just better off buying a new 3 row?
I really dont think I want to get into the 4 row if i need to change the mounts and would that have clearence problems with the fan then?

thanks everyone for the help!
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Old January 8th, 2012, 08:39 PM
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Can't tell if your radiator can have a 3 row installed....ask a radiator shop as it will depend on the thickness (or width/depth- front to back staring down at the tops of the tanks) of the end tanks.

You should be able to source a nice used 3 row original Harrison radiator for reasonable $$...they aren't in high demand like the original 4 row radiators and they are fairly common. If you are having one shipped you can have someone just cut through the old core so all they have to do is ship the end tanks with a bit of the old core still attached.
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