1968 Cutlass convertible top motor keeps cutting out
#1
1968 Cutlass convertible top motor keeps cutting out
The convertible top on my 68 Cutlass started hesitating (motor cutting out) last year and I discovered that the driver's side cylinder was leaking badly at the top seal so I replaced it and followed all the steps to bleeding the system (disconnecting the cylinders and running to ATF through the system). Unfortunately, I am still having the same problem, the motor runs for a few seconds then cuts out. I wait a few seconds, it runs again and the cuts out again. Not seeing air bubbles in the lines, so I think it's full. Any ideas why the motor would cut out like this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#2
Sounds electrical. The circuit breaker could be bad. Same for the relay, the motor or the switch. You need to look at that system. You need to have the ability to read volts and amps to properly troubleshoot. Could be a loose connection or a bad ground as well.
Start with the simplest items, visually looking for loose or burnt connections/wires, working your way towards the pump motor being bad.
Get an electrical schematic and a diagram.
Start with the simplest items, visually looking for loose or burnt connections/wires, working your way towards the pump motor being bad.
Get an electrical schematic and a diagram.
#5
The cct breaker for the conv. top and pwr windows is under the brake vacuum booster, near and above the nuts for the parking brake. Black rubber boot covering orange and black wires. Could be loose fasteners or defective cct breaker. Accessory power relay is in the left door jamb, cowl area, behind the kick panel. Two Philips screws hold it in place. You must remove the parking brake mechanism to remove the kick panel . Good luck.
#6
Any updates, I have a similar problem with my 69.The pump will run ok for a few seconds then slow down and then shut off, have to wait a minute for it to run again. There is a bit of oil leaking around the pump area but not much. I cleaned the area to see if oil coming from the hose fitting or out of the pump seal. I noticed my pump/motor will emit smoke, like maybe its leaking oil into the part of the motor that houses the brushes and armature. Im wondering if the oil in the motor is causing it to pull to much amps and tripping the "auto reset" circuit breaker?
#7
Smoke is never a good thing. It might be that the motor is toasted, or it might be a high amperage draw as a result of a bad connection. Feel the wires, and if they are hot, then look for a bad connection. Keep in mind, that the bad connection might be at the terminal crimp anywhere in the electrical run. Also make sure that the ground is good all the way back to the battery. The pump grounds to the body, and there should be some grounds from the body to the frame and engine on most cars. Many times, these grounds get forgotten to be put back when work is done under the hood. Even undersized battery cables can cause you electrical problems, as well as old cables that have corrosion under the plastic coating. Electrical gremlins can be the most difficult to track down, unless you take a methodical check from the battery back to the taillights, checking everything in between. It is time consuming, but results in a more reliable car, and less problems to solve later on.
#8
Any updates, I have a similar problem with my 69.The pump will run ok for a few seconds then slow down and then shut off, have to wait a minute for it to run again. There is a bit of oil leaking around the pump area but not much. I cleaned the area to see if oil coming from the hose fitting or out of the pump seal. I noticed my pump/motor will emit smoke, like maybe its leaking oil into the part of the motor that houses the brushes and armature. Im wondering if the oil in the motor is causing it to pull to much amps and tripping the "auto reset" circuit breaker?
#9
Ok great, much thanks! I think thats what mine is doing. I have a seal kit on the way, so after I install all the seals and check the armature for wear and clean all the oil out of the motor, Ill install and post results back here. Thanks again
#10
I pulled my pump out and took it apart to find the armature O ring seal bad, a lot of oil made its way into the motor area and got oil all over the brushes and armature, after cleaning out all the oil and installing new seals the pump works ok now. It will still shut off but at least it will run a full top up cycle or top down cycle before shutting off. So this will get me by until I can get a new pump.
#11
I know you have it figured out, but just in case anyone else is following, when I tried my top it was out of fluid. I actually had to fill it a couple times, but at no time did the motor cut out. I think if that happens it is most likely NOT a low fluid issue IMO.
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