Best bang for your buck suspension upgrades??
December 20th, 2012, 11:22 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7
Best bang for your buck suspension upgrades??
71 cutlass supreme
455 425hp/500tq
2004r bowtie OD /2200 stall
eaton tru trac posi/3.73
This car will most likely never see the track. Just want a fun street machine that I can have fun with around town and maybe an ocasional road trip. The suspension is BONE stock and i know with all these new upgrades im gonna have a hardtime transfering it to the wheels. What should i add for my goals for the car? im looking to spend no more than 700 bucks. As of now im for sure getting a rear sway bar, all new bushings and new front springs. Any and all advice and ideas are welcome. thanks
455 425hp/500tq
2004r bowtie OD /2200 stall
eaton tru trac posi/3.73
This car will most likely never see the track. Just want a fun street machine that I can have fun with around town and maybe an ocasional road trip. The suspension is BONE stock and i know with all these new upgrades im gonna have a hardtime transfering it to the wheels. What should i add for my goals for the car? im looking to spend no more than 700 bucks. As of now im for sure getting a rear sway bar, all new bushings and new front springs. Any and all advice and ideas are welcome. thanks
December 20th, 2012, 11:45 AM
#2
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
71 cutlass supreme
455 425hp/500tq
2004r bowtie OD /2200 stall
eaton tru trac posi/3.73
This car will most likely never see the track. Just want a fun street machine that I can have fun with around town and maybe an ocasional road trip. The suspension is BONE stock and i know with all these new upgrades im gonna have a hardtime transfering it to the wheels. What should i add for my goals for the car? im looking to spend no more than 700 bucks. As of now im for sure getting a rear sway bar, all new bushings and new front springs. Any and all advice and ideas are welcome. thanks
455 425hp/500tq
2004r bowtie OD /2200 stall
eaton tru trac posi/3.73
This car will most likely never see the track. Just want a fun street machine that I can have fun with around town and maybe an ocasional road trip. The suspension is BONE stock and i know with all these new upgrades im gonna have a hardtime transfering it to the wheels. What should i add for my goals for the car? im looking to spend no more than 700 bucks. As of now im for sure getting a rear sway bar, all new bushings and new front springs. Any and all advice and ideas are welcome. thanks
1) Complete stock rebuild of all suspension parts, front and rear
2) Front and rear sway bars at least 1.25" dia each (with boxed lower rear control arms if needed)
3) Quality gas shocks
4) Performance tires
5) Quick ratio steering box
6) Springs
7) Performance suspension bushings (do this with #1 if you plan to do it)
December 20th, 2012, 11:51 AM
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
On a limited budget I think sway bars will show an immediate improvement. Especially if you don't have a rear bar on it. A larger front bar would help too. Body mounts and suspension bushings is probably the next step. Either in rubber or poly. The new rubber is superior to the old stuff I hear but I have no first hand knowledge. Considering everything is made off shore nowadays I don't know about the quality. I prefer poly but it's more expensive and can squeak if not kept lubricated. There are some poly bushings that are graphite impregnated to stop the squeak.
December 20th, 2012, 12:08 PM
#4
I agree with joe you need a complete suspension rebuild. I have also said in numerous posts that I used ho racing parts which is gm a body upgrades. I believe you can still contact them on the web and these parts enhance traction also believe me i know first hand. I have also heard that a fat trans am sway bar fits a bodys for cost cutting purposes. ken crocie runs malibu or ho racing in california and the total cost is usually around now 1200 complete with all parts! front to rear suspension wise!
December 20th, 2012, 01:50 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chi-town
Posts: 4,511
I'd work on your brakes, how are those set up. I noticed a big difference when I upgraded shocks, I changed the bushings to polyurethane as well and actually feel for a cruiser they are too harsh.
Biggest difference I noticed was going from 14" SSIIs to 15" SSIIs
Biggest difference I noticed was going from 14" SSIIs to 15" SSIIs
December 20th, 2012, 02:57 PM
#7
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
Let me reiterate what I said in my prior post. The best sway bars, springs, shocks, and tires in the world won't matter if the fundamental suspension parts are worn. FIX THEM FIRST!
Now, if you carefully inspect your suspension and find it is not worn, great, save the money. If the parts are original, it is unlikely that they will not be worn. Even stock replacement parts are better than nothing. If you do plan to upgrade bushing, now is the time to do them, however. Also be sure to check all ball joints and steering parts, as well as the steering box for slop.
Once you have a solid foundation, THEN spend the money on upgrades. I too was somewhat amazed at $1200 for the HO Racing parts. I've performed similar upgrades for substantially less money.
Now, if you carefully inspect your suspension and find it is not worn, great, save the money. If the parts are original, it is unlikely that they will not be worn. Even stock replacement parts are better than nothing. If you do plan to upgrade bushing, now is the time to do them, however. Also be sure to check all ball joints and steering parts, as well as the steering box for slop.
Once you have a solid foundation, THEN spend the money on upgrades. I too was somewhat amazed at $1200 for the HO Racing parts. I've performed similar upgrades for substantially less money.
December 20th, 2012, 03:23 PM
#8
hey there was 1 thing i forget to put in place earlier and that is the 1200 also included heavy heavy duty front suspension, rear arms,no hop bars and air bags if somebody wants a complete suspension plus the bars that are 1 and 3 eights thick by the way this i believe is the way to go overall. I am not trying to misleed anybody. this also includes shocks kyb and custom springs. jfb good luck!
December 21st, 2012, 07:30 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 878
Here's my list, in order of priority:
1) Complete stock rebuild of all suspension parts, front and rear
2) Front and rear sway bars at least 1.25" dia each (with boxed lower rear control arms if needed)
3) Quality gas shocks
4) Performance tires
5) Quick ratio steering box
6) Springs
7) Performance suspension bushings (do this with #1 if you plan to do it)
1) Complete stock rebuild of all suspension parts, front and rear
2) Front and rear sway bars at least 1.25" dia each (with boxed lower rear control arms if needed)
3) Quality gas shocks
4) Performance tires
5) Quick ratio steering box
6) Springs
7) Performance suspension bushings (do this with #1 if you plan to do it)
Also like your plan of looking into the brakes. Have to reign in that new power, especially with how people drive today. Get the existing system in good shape even if you don't do a disk upgrade.
It's a long read, but Rob's post covers the front end in detail.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-end-job.html
February 10th, 2013, 12:11 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 102
Complete stock rebuild of all suspension parts, front and rear
Here's my list, in order of priority:
1) Complete stock rebuild of all suspension parts, front and rear
2) Front and rear sway bars at least 1.25" dia each (with boxed lower rear control arms if needed)
3) Quality gas shocks
4) Performance tires
5) Quick ratio steering box
6) Springs
7) Performance suspension bushings (do this with #1 if you plan to do it)
1) Complete stock rebuild of all suspension parts, front and rear
2) Front and rear sway bars at least 1.25" dia each (with boxed lower rear control arms if needed)
3) Quality gas shocks
4) Performance tires
5) Quick ratio steering box
6) Springs
7) Performance suspension bushings (do this with #1 if you plan to do it)
How do I find out what is needed for #1? Also can you recommend products for #' 2, 3, 5, 6 and 7
Thanks
Hoping to start my project this spring.
February 10th, 2013, 06:42 PM
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Shorewood, Il.
Posts: 3,057
Go to a shop that specializes in alignments - they'll tell you all you need to know, and then some!
Make sure you ask for an estimate only, as you were curious how much to set aside, and they should do it for free -
Make sure you ask for an estimate only, as you were curious how much to set aside, and they should do it for free -
February 11th, 2013, 05:44 AM
#12
72 Olds CS
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,657
On my car I just replaced all the bushings and ball joints. Some stuff was original some had been replaced. I took it all apart cleaned and painted everything and then installed all new moog parts. Now I shouldn't have to worry that some part that was good but used will fail shortly.
February 11th, 2013, 07:13 AM
#13
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
I grab the second gen WS6 Trans Am front bars at swap meets for about $25 each. The rear be aftermarket, since the largest factory bar was 7/8". It's simply a bent piece of steel rod, so just find the least expensive one you can.
Monroe is a good gas shock at reasonable prices. KYB is much better and priced accordingly.
Tires are a personal preference. I like BFGs but there are many equally good performance tires.
Get your stock steering box rebuilt by Power Steering Specialties and have them install the quick ratio gear set.
Springs are also a personal preference and depend on how your car is set up.
March 5th, 2013, 06:28 PM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 333
Found some info on OldsmobileWiki about air bags and traction.
I had no idea this was possible, and figured maybe someone else might be interested too. And if anyone has first-hand knowledge, I'd be extremely interested to hear more!
I had no idea this was possible, and figured maybe someone else might be interested too. And if anyone has first-hand knowledge, I'd be extremely interested to hear more!
Suspension Air Bags
Air bags are also called air springs. They are essentially big rubber balloons that fit inside the rear springs (or on top, for the leaf spring vehicles). They preload the suspension similar to air shocks, but are more controllable. You can load the right side harder to plant that tire down firmer, while leaving the left nearly unassisted, to provide fairly even traction left-to-right.
They sit right inside the rear coils and air up to assist the springs. (actually, they resist the springs, making them harder to compress). They act similarly to air shocks, but they leave those mounting points free to put useful shocks in their place. Let's face it, air shocks leave a lot to be desired for control and ride. The air bags can be inflated independently, and allow for preloading the right side of the axle. This effectively puts more weight on the drive tire, making it harder to break loose. Result: instant posi.
Plus, without the air shocks, you can have more axle control and less chance of wheel hop. This is an aspect that makes them desirable even with existing posi's. They install literally in minutes...
They work awesome. There are different versions available. The day I put them on, I took a friend out and tried for hours to prove that I had not changed the open rear to a posi! Gravel, pavement, water, didn't matter, I couldn't break loose! I finally had to unload one of the bags and do a bit of a smokeshow, and that finally convinced him. Very impressive items.
And if you already have an anti-spin or posi differential, definately get a set! I'd actually recommend them highly. In addition to controlling axle movement with the shocks, you can preload the suspension to give equal traction characteristics and control/prevent/reduce wheel hop (i.e. put more power to the ground).
Posi-traction is great, but the ability to load each wheel separately was invaluable. I don't see why it wouldn't be fine on a street car. The driving and ride are not compromised at all. Control of the rear is what you are getting here. Different air pressures and combinations give you different traction results.
Air bags are also called air springs. They are essentially big rubber balloons that fit inside the rear springs (or on top, for the leaf spring vehicles). They preload the suspension similar to air shocks, but are more controllable. You can load the right side harder to plant that tire down firmer, while leaving the left nearly unassisted, to provide fairly even traction left-to-right.
They sit right inside the rear coils and air up to assist the springs. (actually, they resist the springs, making them harder to compress). They act similarly to air shocks, but they leave those mounting points free to put useful shocks in their place. Let's face it, air shocks leave a lot to be desired for control and ride. The air bags can be inflated independently, and allow for preloading the right side of the axle. This effectively puts more weight on the drive tire, making it harder to break loose. Result: instant posi.
Plus, without the air shocks, you can have more axle control and less chance of wheel hop. This is an aspect that makes them desirable even with existing posi's. They install literally in minutes...
They work awesome. There are different versions available. The day I put them on, I took a friend out and tried for hours to prove that I had not changed the open rear to a posi! Gravel, pavement, water, didn't matter, I couldn't break loose! I finally had to unload one of the bags and do a bit of a smokeshow, and that finally convinced him. Very impressive items.
And if you already have an anti-spin or posi differential, definately get a set! I'd actually recommend them highly. In addition to controlling axle movement with the shocks, you can preload the suspension to give equal traction characteristics and control/prevent/reduce wheel hop (i.e. put more power to the ground).
Posi-traction is great, but the ability to load each wheel separately was invaluable. I don't see why it wouldn't be fine on a street car. The driving and ride are not compromised at all. Control of the rear is what you are getting here. Different air pressures and combinations give you different traction results.
March 6th, 2013, 05:30 PM
#16
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Near Muskegon Michigan
Posts: 1,015
UMI upper rear control arms with the roto joint made a huge difference in the tightness of my rear suspension after adding the poly bushings first. Rides and handles much better. There is no longer any pinch or bounce when the suspension loads up. Just a thought.
August 25th, 2021, 11:24 AM
#18
No it's not a parts car!!
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NE, Illinois
Posts: 427
August 27th, 2021, 05:41 AM
#19
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 37
I was talking with a guy local to here about his car and to get a quicker ratio for the steering, he used a 3rd gen f-body box (Camaro/Firebird). As long as it's a good used unit and not leaking; that's probably cheaper than sending your current one out to be reconditioned and modified.
August 27th, 2021, 06:03 AM
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 1,159
A common one used is the Jeep Grand Cherokee 93-97. I don't know how that compares to the Camaro one but there are a lot of threads about it and many guys have done it for a huge improvement. I did and it was well worth it.
Steve
Steve
August 27th, 2021, 06:15 AM
#21
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 1,159
This link discussed steering boxes, but if you go to the bottom "related topics" there are more threads about steering boxes.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...radius-151102/
Steve
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...radius-151102/
Steve
August 27th, 2021, 07:38 AM
#22
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Seneca Falls, NY
Posts: 5,258
I believe 70-72 already have the same ratio as the JGC box. It's usually an upgrade for 68-69. I did it on my 68 and I agree.
August 27th, 2021, 01:31 PM
#24
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 401
I was talking with a guy local to here about his car and to get a quicker ratio for the steering, he used a 3rd gen f-body box (Camaro/Firebird). As long as it's a good used unit and not leaking; that's probably cheaper than sending your current one out to be reconditioned and modified.
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