tubular UCA with stock LCA??

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old June 10th, 2011, 03:08 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
big_wheel1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 16
tubular UCA with stock LCA??

Guys,

I replaced the upper control arm and was advised the lower could remain stock. With the car back on the ground, spindle does not sit as perindicular as it should (too much tilt in at top of tire- camber?caster?- I always mix those up). Is it possible that this is a geometry issue between the after market and stock arms? Has anyone replaced only the upper arms without any problems? It could be just me missing something along the line.
Thanks
big_wheel1971 is offline  
Old June 10th, 2011, 05:28 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
1965cutlassragtop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 372
Lower and upper should be a matching set. Plus, the upper and lower are meant to work with each other in unison, using similar geometry and achieving a certain improvement. I wouldn't even consider running different upper and lowers. It just doesn't operate or look correctly. The increased camber is a clear example why not to do it. You'll prob burn through your ball joints, tie rods, and possibly bushings as well.
1965cutlassragtop is offline  
Old June 10th, 2011, 07:11 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
big_wheel1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 16
Thanks for the info. I'll look into some new lowers I guess.
big_wheel1971 is offline  
Old June 11th, 2011, 07:02 AM
  #4  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,294
Originally Posted by big_wheel1971
Guys,

I replaced the upper control arm and was advised the lower could remain stock. With the car back on the ground, spindle does not sit as perindicular as it should (too much tilt in at top of tire- camber?caster?- I always mix those up). Is it possible that this is a geometry issue between the after market and stock arms? Has anyone replaced only the upper arms without any problems? It could be just me missing something along the line.
Thanks
Tilt inward or outward is caster.

Is the problem that there isn't enough adjustment available to properly set camber? If so, do you have stock length UCAs or the shortened ones for the B-body spindle conversion? If the latter, they won't work unless you use the taller spindles.
joe_padavano is online now  
Old June 11th, 2011, 07:38 AM
  #5  
Registered User
 
Shizzy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: six one two
Posts: 143
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Tilt inward or outward is caster.

Is the problem that there isn't enough adjustment available to properly set camber? If so, do you have stock length UCAs or the shortened ones for the B-body spindle conversion? If the latter, they won't work unless you use the taller spindles.
you mean camber.

Caster is the tilt of the spindle in the vertical plane.
Shizzy is offline  
Old June 11th, 2011, 10:17 AM
  #6  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,294
Originally Posted by Shizzy
you mean camber.
Yes I did. DOH! Sorry for the brain fart.
joe_padavano is online now  
Old June 12th, 2011, 09:52 AM
  #7  
Registered User
 
fdwheelman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 222
I learned it this way:

Caster - Casting a fishing rod - wheels forward/backward (from side profile towards or away from front bumper)

Toe-In - Look at your feet, toes go in and out. (Wheels pointing from a top profile towards front bumper - Toe-in means your "toes are pointing towards the hood ornament)

Camber - no logical quickie, since it's the odd man out, it's how close to 90 degrees the wheel sits to the ground. (Look down the side of the car, front to rear)

Might help, although descriptions are a little hard to do without having a car to show it on...
fdwheelman is offline  
Old June 13th, 2011, 07:08 PM
  #8  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
big_wheel1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 16
don't think they were any shorter that the stock uppers on visual comparison. Bought through local rod shop and were for an A body. I questioned them about the geometry before purchase and was told it would not be an issue. Anything for the sale??? Looked into new lowers and looks like $650 Cdn.

Compared spindle length and they are same height between stock and new disc setup. I thought the upper ball joint looked like too much of an angle when hooked to spindle.

What a learning experience. Thanks for the input on camber/caster guys.
big_wheel1971 is offline  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 04:24 PM
  #9  
Registered User
 
1965cutlassragtop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 372
1156454b.jpg

46b85d61.jpg

7716238c.jpg

I just got this set on eBay, will be installed in about a week or so, but so far from what I see I am very impressed. Greasable bushings and ball joint pre-loaded on these, solid construction. I paid $350 for the whole set....could be an option for you.
1965cutlassragtop is offline  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 05:05 PM
  #10  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
big_wheel1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 16
The uppers I bought are Heidt's. I may look into that set and sell off the uppers I have. Who was the seller on Ebay?
big_wheel1971 is offline  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 05:37 PM
  #11  
Registered User
 
greenslade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Brunswick Canada
Posts: 330
you may just need a alienment,
greenslade is offline  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 06:01 PM
  #12  
Registered User
 
1965cutlassragtop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 372
If his alignment was off, his concern would be the caster of the wheel. He is saying the camber is off, and is using unmatching upper/lowers. I am guessing he didn't have this problem before he swapped his uppers. That rules out alignment in my opinion. It's def your control arm/spindle arrangment causing the problem. The seller on eBay is rodpartsdealer. If you search "65 cutlass front control arm" u should be able to find them also. They are buy it now $295 + 45 shipping. Sway bar links also included, seats for the springs, and bumper stops.
1965cutlassragtop is offline  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 06:41 PM
  #13  
Registered User
 
firefrost gold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: mn
Posts: 2,444
Those do look like nice arms I would like to know what the set up specs are ?
firefrost gold is offline  
Old June 28th, 2011, 05:45 PM
  #14  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
big_wheel1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 16
Ragtop's correct, there was no issue before the swap. I'm gonna look into those arms and go from there.
big_wheel1971 is offline  
Old June 28th, 2011, 07:15 PM
  #15  
car guy
 
gearheads78's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 5,656
With the exception of SPC's the A-body lower control arms on the market are just tubular version of stock arms. Your issue is you more than likely you have the wrong uppers for your application.
gearheads78 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
costpenn
Parts Wanted
4
September 30th, 2014 06:33 AM
drew1987gn
Racing and High Performance
8
January 22nd, 2013 11:01 AM
RetroRanger
Chassis/Body/Frame
15
September 16th, 2011 03:49 PM
ROCKET VAPOR
Chassis/Body/Frame
3
June 20th, 2011 06:50 PM
oldzy
Suspension & Handling
0
January 2nd, 2011 04:20 PM



Quick Reply: tubular UCA with stock LCA??



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:10 AM.