steering box replacement.
March 25th, 2010, 08:47 PM
#42
Hangin' out...
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Location: Scottsdale, AZ
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Yes. As you work the steering wheel to the left and right air bubbles will make their way to the top of the pump. Your fluid will appear foamy, but that will eventually settle down. You may have to check it a couple of times.
March 26th, 2010, 10:59 AM
#44
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Location: Scottsdale, AZ
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-Stock A-Body (1964-1972) 40degrees
-Stock F-Body (2nd Gen) 35 degrees
-1992-1998 Grand Cherokee 41 degrees (This is why they work so well for the A-Body).
Bear in mind, that a competent steering box specialist can reconfigure the stops. You could too if you knew what you were doing.
If your Delta has the same type of Saginaw Box (I don't know for sure), it would at least bolt in. But I guess you have some homework to do. It makes me wonder, maybe a box from a later model B/C body would be the ticket? I love the steering on my 98 Regency. It's responsive and has good turning radius for a large car. If that would work, the rest of the swap procedure should be the same as far as adapters and a new coupler are concerned.
March 26th, 2010, 10:12 PM
#45
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Windsor, Ontario
Posts: 901
Hey henryk8398: Thanks for the quick reply. I happen to own a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I could test things without having to purchase a steering box.
If any else would like to add their 2-cents worth, please do!
Jaybird
If any else would like to add their 2-cents worth, please do!
Jaybird
March 27th, 2010, 01:35 PM
#47
Hangin' out...
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
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I have about $80 into this conversion, including the box. The new manual steering boxes I searched for ran anywhere from $269-569. Where did you get yours and how much did you pay?
I'll keep my money. That was the whole point of this thread. Besides the grand Cherokee steering box restores a lot of the road feel. It's no manual, but is a very good "sleeper" upgrade.
Rcdynamic88, why not start a thread with some information on what it takes to convert a PS car to manual and any potential SNAFUs you ran into? I'm sure it's pretty straightforward, but there's always some snag.
I'd love to read it!
April 1st, 2010, 07:05 PM
#48
Just finished up my conversion. It turned out great. Definitely has much tighter steering feel than the original box and much better response. I used the following parts:
used grand cherokee box w/shipping $40.00
81 Camaro high pressure hose 22.00
1ft of 3/8 rubber line for return hose 2.00
Lares #200 rag joint 34.00
3/8 x 8" brake line 2.00
Total investment $100
The camaro high pressure hose is metric and works perfectly with the steering box but will not hook up to the pump. I cut the end off of the high pressure line that connects to the pump and used one of the 3/8" nuts off of the brake line. I used a brake line flare tool to set the line up. You can go this route and not use the Lee adapters and make your upgrade look factory stock.
used grand cherokee box w/shipping $40.00
81 Camaro high pressure hose 22.00
1ft of 3/8 rubber line for return hose 2.00
Lares #200 rag joint 34.00
3/8 x 8" brake line 2.00
Total investment $100
The camaro high pressure hose is metric and works perfectly with the steering box but will not hook up to the pump. I cut the end off of the high pressure line that connects to the pump and used one of the 3/8" nuts off of the brake line. I used a brake line flare tool to set the line up. You can go this route and not use the Lee adapters and make your upgrade look factory stock.
April 1st, 2010, 07:53 PM
#49
Car Junkie
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Wakefield, Massachusetts
Posts: 109
I used a 77-79 WS6 Trans Am steering box in my 442. It has 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns, takes my original hoses but did require the different rag joint. I didn't notice any difference in turning radius but the steering feel isn't stiff like a newer car it feels just like the original box in that respect. The chance of finding a good used one nowadys is slim so I bought mine rebuilt from Napa for $140 plus a $27 core charge.
I had a Grand National box in my 67 442 and while it felt great it did lose a lot of turning radius.
I had a Grand National box in my 67 442 and while it felt great it did lose a lot of turning radius.
April 1st, 2010, 08:03 PM
#51
Car Junkie
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Wakefield, Massachusetts
Posts: 109
It was a while ago so I'm going off memury but I believe I had to use a manual steering box rag joint which is the same as the one the Jeep box would take. The hoses have the Saginaw fittings on the box end so you have to use the adapters from Lee, Weatherhead or another PS supplier or you could cut the steel part of both lines, put male tube fittings on them, double flare and couple them with a brass fitting. I want to say the stock Pitman arm fits, and I think that was it.
April 2nd, 2010, 09:50 AM
#56
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I also wanted the throw out there that a reputable rebuilder I spoke to said that unless he rebuilt both the PS box and pump, he would not warranty any work. I completely understand, but that further adds to the expense. Perhaps other rebuilders would warranty a rebuild on a box only, but I don't blame him for not wanting to.
April 2nd, 2010, 09:54 AM
#57
Car Junkie
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Wakefield, Massachusetts
Posts: 109
Henry is right. The guy I spoke to had a similar sentiment (might have been the same guy for that matter) so that's another $100+ on top of the box easily. It's a pricy commitment, worth it for sure but it's alot to drop at once. That's why I went to the TA box but the Jeep one sounds good too. From what I hear it gives you the stiff steering feel like a newer performance car.
April 2nd, 2010, 05:53 PM
#58
Just ran across this thread, I plan on trying the conversion on my 65 Biscayne. My 71 442 seems to steer very nicely. The Biscayne is like a school bus.
Thanks for all the great info!!
Thanks for all the great info!!
April 7th, 2010, 06:27 PM
#59
One interesting note about doing this conversion. I found that it was very straightforward and the only issue I ran into was the steering wheel alignment. The wheel ended up being off by a few degrees to the left and required me to adjust the tie rod sleeves. I have not heard of anyone else having this issue so I am not sure why I was so lucky. I confirmed it was a grand cherokee box by the pitman arm #'s but I could see the pitman arm alignment marks were different comparing the Cutlass one with the GC so I am assuming that's why it was a little off. No big deal, but just a good fyi in case anyone else has that problem.
April 7th, 2010, 09:35 PM
#60
Hangin' out...
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 608
One interesting note about doing this conversion. I found that it was very straightforward and the only issue I ran into was the steering wheel alignment. The wheel ended up being off by a few degrees to the left and required me to adjust the tie rod sleeves. I have not heard of anyone else having this issue so I am not sure why I was so lucky. I confirmed it was a grand cherokee box by the pitman arm #'s but I could see the pitman arm alignment marks were different comparing the Cutlass one with the GC so I am assuming that's why it was a little off. No big deal, but just a good fyi in case anyone else has that problem.
April 10th, 2010, 06:15 PM
#61
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Somerset Wisconsin
Posts: 1,167
Got it finished today. It made my old 65 Biscayne handle like a car 30 years newer. Awesome upgrade!!!
I bought a newer high pressure hose from a 80 Impala. I then cut and flared the fitting going into on my old pump. I used the piece I cut off for the low pressure stub coming out tof the box.
Thanks again to all the people who added to this thread.
I bought a newer high pressure hose from a 80 Impala. I then cut and flared the fitting going into on my old pump. I used the piece I cut off for the low pressure stub coming out tof the box.
Thanks again to all the people who added to this thread.
April 11th, 2010, 07:01 PM
#62
Directions for centering steering wheel:
Loosen the tie rod adjuster tube clamps on both the left and right tie rods, then turn both tubes an equal number of turns in the same direction to bring the gear back on center. DO NOT turn the sleeves an unequal number of turns. If you closely follow this procedure you will not change your front toe setting. If you turn the tubes in one direction and the steering wheel position gets worse, start turning them in the opposite direction. Just make sure that you rotate them the same direction and the exact same number of turns.
Hope that helps.
Loosen the tie rod adjuster tube clamps on both the left and right tie rods, then turn both tubes an equal number of turns in the same direction to bring the gear back on center. DO NOT turn the sleeves an unequal number of turns. If you closely follow this procedure you will not change your front toe setting. If you turn the tubes in one direction and the steering wheel position gets worse, start turning them in the opposite direction. Just make sure that you rotate them the same direction and the exact same number of turns.
Hope that helps.
October 26th, 2010, 06:08 PM
#63
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 79
GC steering box
Same here, I think I paid $60.00. I spent $15.00 on the Lee adapters and a new low pressure fitting (the original was beat up) and another $60.00 for the complete steering coupler, delivered. The Lee adapters just drop into the box fittings to convert the modern o-ring fittings to the flared fittings on pre-1980 cars. Even though the Grand Cherokee box has metric threads, they are close enough to work with the original fittings. I don't have any leaks from the fittings. I think the original A-Body steering box sweep is 40 degrees and the Grand Cherokee is 41 degrees. An awesome coincidence. 
I also found out about it on Chevelles.com, but found more specific information from the Pontiac Performance years forums. Lot of guys have done it to their GTOs. I am a big proponent of the swap. In my opinion, is the best "bang for the buck" after big sway bars to improve handling inexpensively. I'm amazed at how well the car responds. With the original box (I don't know what the ratio was 16:1?), sudden lane changes were scary. Not anymore! If you have any more questions, let me know.
I also found out about it on Chevelles.com, but found more specific information from the Pontiac Performance years forums. Lot of guys have done it to their GTOs. I am a big proponent of the swap. In my opinion, is the best "bang for the buck" after big sway bars to improve handling inexpensively. I'm amazed at how well the car responds. With the original box (I don't know what the ratio was 16:1?), sudden lane changes were scary. Not anymore! If you have any more questions, let me know.
October 27th, 2010, 05:44 AM
#64
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
I am liking the idea of this and plan to do it next year or so.
I was gonna have my original box rebuilt, but 450 is a lot of dough to drop when i can use the GC box for 150 or so...
October 28th, 2010, 05:15 AM
#66
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Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
October 28th, 2010, 06:11 AM
#67
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Shorewood, Il.
Posts: 3,057
FYI - the Grand Cherokee was one of the vehicles on the 'Cash for Cars' list a while ago, and unless crushed, there's a lot of them out there!
Only thing they couldn't sell were the motors.
Prices on that box should be super cheap - shop the yards, and if you pull it yourself, even cheaper!
Only thing they couldn't sell were the motors.
Prices on that box should be super cheap - shop the yards, and if you pull it yourself, even cheaper!
October 28th, 2010, 10:29 AM
#68
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 4,249
This place. http://www.straightlinesteering.com/ They had it done in a day and they are local to me (2 miles from the house) so it was a quick turn around.
October 29th, 2010, 06:30 AM
#69
JS71SX
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix az
Posts: 33
The problem with a quick ratio gearbox is the stubshaft (part that connects to steering column shaft) is smaller. You can replace the rag joint when you replace gearbox. They are all saginaw boxes, anything from a camero/firefird or older vette will work; and yes you can o/h the box with a quick ratio set-up but that will most likey cost more than a new gearbox. Hope this helps.
November 21st, 2010, 07:00 PM
#70
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 9
My 69 supreme has manual steering and it is a bear to drive.What all am i gonna need to get power steering on this beast?? My main concern is gonna be finding the correct brackets to mount the power steering pump.Any suggestions as to brackets that will work?
November 22nd, 2010, 05:43 AM
#72
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,255
All 1968-1990 Olds V8 motors used essentially the same PS pump brackets (there are minor differences but they do not affect fitment), so any of those will be a donor. Be aware, however, that the pump pulley needs to match your crank pulley. Also be sure to get the two spacers that go between the block and the bracket.
July 21st, 2012, 06:51 AM
#77
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Boynton Beach, Florida
Posts: 37
Ok can someone give me a complete lists of parts to buy to convert our 1972 cutlass steering box. The one we have now is so loosey goosey I am very uncomfortable driving it. This jeep conversion sounds like the thing we need to get this car under better control. Thanks
July 21st, 2012, 07:33 AM
#78
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
I know that we try to avoid references to other divisions here, but since there is already a very info-packed thread somewhere else, since, in some repscts, some GM cars from different divisions really are identical, and since I have still not gotten off my tuchas and written my own how-to on this, I would recommend reading through this thread for the detailed information you need.
- Eric
- Eric
July 21st, 2012, 07:45 AM
#79
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Further information:
From a post of mine on that thread:
"The rag joint should be a Lares 202 (about $30 at Advance Auto) or a Dorman 31011 (about $75), if I recall. If you use the Lares, make sure you've got enough clearance to the casting for your socket to go completely over the 12-sided pinch bolt nut - if it's only part way on, you could think you tightened it when you didn't, with "exciting" results on the road."
Also, see this post and this one.
- Eric
From a post of mine on that thread:
"The rag joint should be a Lares 202 (about $30 at Advance Auto) or a Dorman 31011 (about $75), if I recall. If you use the Lares, make sure you've got enough clearance to the casting for your socket to go completely over the 12-sided pinch bolt nut - if it's only part way on, you could think you tightened it when you didn't, with "exciting" results on the road."
Also, see this post and this one.
- Eric
July 23rd, 2012, 02:16 PM
#80
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Boynton Beach, Florida
Posts: 37
Thanks for your help. Trying to get my husband to go for this. His new mechanic he has said the current steering box was working fine...I would like tighter more responsive steering..others have said it made their ride like a new car and thats what I would like..is it really true.
thanks
thanks
