76olds

I'm planning on installing my upper and lower ball joints myself.
I understand the lower needs to be pressed in, should I buy a ball joint install tool for this job ? My 76 chassis service manual shows the install tool, I guess the tool would eliminate having to take the lower control arm off and pressing the new ball joints in.
Hoping to get some suggestions on just how to go about this with a few tips. The ball joints are all original, the upper still have the rivets in place that will need to be chiselled or drilled out.
Thanks

Eric

My442

I would recommend taking all of the control arms off and replace the bushings as well.

Unless they have been done, it would be advisable.

Take the arms to a machine shop and have everything pressed.

76olds

The control arms bushings are still in good shape, The springs look fine as well. Don't really want to compress springs etc. Also, I would like to keep the maw's down on this car since it is a lower mileage car. Just planning on replacing the centre link, idler, tie rods and ball joints along with new shocks.
I appreciate the advice .

Kennybill

I 2nd the replacement of the control arm bushings. It might be just me but I've never had bad upper ball joints, just lower ones. Control arm bushings always go, so MAW change the upper ball joints while you're at it.

Fun71

You should be able to rent a ball joint press from your local auto parts store. It really makes the job easy. Back in my youth I used a hammer and pounded the lower joint in, and let me tell you that was not easy.

76olds

Thanks for the input Kenneth,

I'm sure I could rent or loan a ball joint install tool, I really don't feel like swingin on a BFH while the car is on jack stands haha. That sounds like the best way to go I suppose. Just figured some may have a tip or trick to getting the lower done. The upper seems to be fairly straight forward after drilling the rivets out, then a hammer will do for the install. I don't really want to fight with the lowers.

Allan R

Eric - Part Source or Canadian Tire - free tool loaner program. Ezpz but I would suggest it's much easier when the LCA is off the car - as others have also said. It's not an especially hard job and the ball joint only takes about 5 minutes to remove and replace when you have the loaner tool set up.

Fun71

FYI, no hammer or press needed for the uppers. They just drop right through the hole in the control arm and four bolts/nuts hold them in place.

76olds

Thanks Allan.
I will stop by Canadian tire and check out the loaner program. I would like to pull the control arms off and do everything, however, I'm kinda worried about the front coils flying out at me since I haven't done this type of work before. More afraid of something going wrong actually . I want to enjoy doing the work but... Don't want to get in over my head and injure myself either.
At that point, I could paint both control arms etc.
I suppose I could look into a spring compressor and see how hard the complete job will be.
I will need to be prepared and confident to pull the control arms out so I could complete the job. I have time to consider giving it a shot, will just need to order all the bushings.

Yellowstatue

If you don't take out the control arm then just put a floor jack under the spring pocket. Go to Can Tire and borrow tool. Deposit required to ensure return of same!

76olds

Thanks!
I'm actually considering tackling pulling the control arms, replace all the bushings and maw replace the springs at that point as well, damit anyway haha.
Eventually it will all need to be done I suppose.
I bought the summit 1 5/16 front sway bar kit with links, all the front end components as well, so at this point I need to get the nerves up to try to do the whole deal.
Should I get a good helmet just in case lol?

droldsmorland

Gently heat the control arm less than 200*F...after putting the BJ in the freezer for an hour. Select the proper driver and it will seat nicely, no press needed. Gently heat the arm to remove old BJ. A BJ installation tool can be used too with the same thermal tool. it will go in smoother...less galling.

76olds

Had a looksie at Amazon, seen a bushing removal tool. It seems as thou, I can get away with removing/re-installing the control arm.?
Is it possible?


Thanks Dr,
I have the capability to heat up the control arm and throwing the lowers in the freezer, that sound like a great idea. I will get the install tool to make it a little easier and have at er'. I'd like to seat the lowers in really well.
I'm actually feeling more comfortable about doing this now from all the comments.
I can't thank you all guys enough for the direction and advice! I'd kinda like to do the control arm bushings installed if the tool I seen will do the job.

Cheers
Eric

Allan R

Eric,
If you're worried about the spring energy? Put a trolley jack under the lower control arm when you're busting the ball joint connection loose. Then just gradually lower the control arm to the floor. It helps if you have the front end up in the air about 18 or so inches when you do this. At that point the spring has no energy to hurt you and you can literally give it a yank and pull it right out of the lower pocket. The rest of the LCA is ezpz. You might have some bolts that are frozen to the bushings in which case a sawzall does the job getting them out. The UCA's are not terrible. The hardest part is getting the 2 bolts on the cross member out. They're press fitted. The ones on the drivers side are crap to work with because of the steering shaft, but it's do-able.

Have fun!

76olds

Allan,
Yes, the spring is my biggest fear. I had a look at a pair of spring compressor tools if I go ahead and change everything, however, not sure I will be 100% comfortable with that. I will try the trolley jack, I would much rather do that than trust just a jack stand and manual spring compressors. That sounds much easier and safer for me. I do own a sawzall, that will certainly help if like you say, the bolts are frozen.
The 2 bolts on the UCA you mention that are press fitted, are those the bolts/crossbar that the new bushings slide over or ?

Allan R

I was a bit apprehensive about the spring when I did my front end too. But in all honesty, if you work smart and lower out that LCA? There's absolutely 0 energy left in spring. When you reinstall it, you have to shoe horn it in with a pry bar, orient it in the coil pocket, then jack the LCA up till you can reconnect the ball joint and spindle. After you've done it, you'll be patting yourself on the back and remembering how easy it was.

Allan R

Oh yeah, spring compressors are a waste of time on this job, and in all honesty if you use them wrong they're just as dangerous as the loaded spring itself. I wouldn't bother with them

76olds

I appreciate the help Allan! Honestly, I feel much better about taking this job on now. My wife will be over the moon that she can put the extra $350 bucks labour I would have to shell out towards our retirement account as well. She sends her thanks as well !
Just need to order the new crossbars, bushings, and front coils and I will be good to go!

Fun71

To allay your concerns about the spring flying into your head, put a length of chain through the shock absorber holes to retain it. That's what I did when I replaced the front springs.

The two bolts for the upper bushing shaft are splined and press fit into their respective holes. They can be driven out and driven back in if needed.

76olds

Thanks Kenneth,
Your always very helpful with your experiences. It won't hurt to throw some chain through the shock holes to help keep the sweat coming down my forehead while doing this haha. I will work as safe as I can, while being prepared for the worst. I hope the upper bushings don't give me too much trouble. I will hit all the area's with liquid wrench for several days prior to the attempt.
Cheers
Eric

Macadoo

Eric! How are you, old friend?

I'm actually looking into this job myself, maybe this summer. Brian (Dalilama on CO) turned me onto this 5 part youtube series. It has some good info. Brian just used a floor jack to lower the control arms, no spring compressor. But I'm with you, I don't want a spring sticking out of my face when the job is complete.

Good luck duder!

76olds

Mac,
I doing great Buddy!
I hope all is good with you.
This is not a job I would have taken on in the past haha, however, the retirement push is on to save some cash. Its nice to see, we can always count on our awesome CO community to help out and give the confidence to tackle jobs like this.
I'm with you, I didn't want to be pulling a spring out of my face. The directions that Allan, Kenneth, Dr + others along with that good You-tube video you linked, certainly gave me the confidence to try and pull this off.
Its not easy to save $350+ bucks anymore, however, with all the help and confidence building here, I'm sure I will be able to do it.
Cheers buddy!

Eric

Fun71

I did the same when I changed front springs and redid, well, everything in the front suspension. Be aware that you need to get the front of the car up quite high. I had to lower the control arms until they were at more than a 45º downward angle. I was surprised at how low they had to go for the spring tension to be released, but then the springs practically fell out. The new ones were much stiffer, though, and I had to pry the bottom of them in.

oldcutlass

I did the same as Brian and Kenneth with the springs, no compressor. Its easier with two people to get the springs in while paying attn to the positioning in the pocket. I melt the rubber out of the bushings with a torch like in another video. I also use a piece of pipe or a large socket to hammer the bushings and the lower ball joint in. I never use a pickle fork, the way the guy separated the ball joints from the steering knuckle with the hammer is the same way I separate all of the tapered joints in the front end. Its really is a simple job Eric, don't be intimidated.

deadeyejedi

those videos are a great old school series ,i referred to them several times while rebuilding the 72 front end .i redid all the bushings and ball joints on my 76 most of it went well. i did use a rented ball joint press for the lower .the freezer method actually works quite well for the bushings .reinstalling the springs for me was the hardest part there was no way i could do it without a spring compressor. good luck.it improved my ride and handling dramatically

Allan R

Eric, (not the other Eric)
You might have a bit more of a struggle getting bushings out of the UCA and LCA since you live in one of the rust provinces.

brownbomber77

Stick the replacement ball joints in the freezer the day before you do anything. Every little bit helps, they're a pain to get in with the installation tool. I, too, second replacing the control arm bushings, as well....Reinstalling isn't terrible. Just use a chain through the control arm and coil spring, up through about 4 links up, before the frame interferes, and a come-along hooked to the other side of the car. Jack up at the ball joint and pull in the spring with the come-along. As long as the chain is good, it's about the safest way I've found to do it

76olds

I can't thank-you guys enough for the tips on tackling the front end parts! These tips will defiantly save me some money as always. Eric, you always take the time to give us very good sound advice that helps to get the job done without having to take our cars to the shop. The savings have been incredible over the years to many us, this thread will certainly help myself and so many in the future!
My intimidation factor has subsided to the point where I will be comfortable doing the job, I could not have done this without you all.
Cheers!