Lowering spindles for my 72 cutlass
#1
Lowering spindles for my 72 cutlass
So, it's been suggested, both on this forum and by my trusted mechanic, that using lowering spindles to drop the front end of my Olds is a better option than replacing the coils (which I just replaced last year with Moog 5340s).
Can anyone fathom a guess as to why disc brake conversion kits w/ lowering spindles are only sold to work w/ 15" wheels (at least on Summit and OPGI)?
To elaborate, I'm not certain, but it appears lowering spindles either require or work better with disc brakes. Is this true?
Either way, if I'm changing the spindles, I figure I may as well convert to disc brakes. Since I only have 14" wheels, I now have to buy the kit and lowering spindles separately, which is challenging to know what will work together.
For now, I am considering these, with my drum brakes:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rs...utlass-supreme
Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated
Can anyone fathom a guess as to why disc brake conversion kits w/ lowering spindles are only sold to work w/ 15" wheels (at least on Summit and OPGI)?
To elaborate, I'm not certain, but it appears lowering spindles either require or work better with disc brakes. Is this true?
Either way, if I'm changing the spindles, I figure I may as well convert to disc brakes. Since I only have 14" wheels, I now have to buy the kit and lowering spindles separately, which is challenging to know what will work together.
For now, I am considering these, with my drum brakes:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rs...utlass-supreme
Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated
#2
There is, however, one potential issue with the lowering spindles. These spindles have the centerline of the wheel moved upwards relative to the front suspension. This causes the lower ball joint and outboard end of the lower control arm to be much closer to the I.D. of the wheel. This may be an issue with 14" wheels, especially wider ones (7" and over). At worst, the I.D. of the wheel will rub on the LCA during turns.
#3
Thank you Joe. Good to know, doesn't sound ideal, having the LCA constantly rubbing on the I.D. Of the wheel during turns, but potentially maybe just tighter turns?
And to be clear, there are disc conversion kits for 14" wheels - as I'm sure you know - they are sold with standard height spindles. For some reason unbeknownst to me, none with lowering spindles.
I'm guessing the reason is as you describe: the wheel becomes to close to the ball joint and LCA.
What a drag... I'm sort of back to square one on lowering the front end.
I may try the spindles anyway. If so, any thoughts on the kit, which comes with backing plates and caliper brackets, or is that just useless if I keep drums?
And to be clear, there are disc conversion kits for 14" wheels - as I'm sure you know - they are sold with standard height spindles. For some reason unbeknownst to me, none with lowering spindles.
I'm guessing the reason is as you describe: the wheel becomes to close to the ball joint and LCA.
What a drag... I'm sort of back to square one on lowering the front end.
I may try the spindles anyway. If so, any thoughts on the kit, which comes with backing plates and caliper brackets, or is that just useless if I keep drums?
#4
I got a mini kit from Right Stuff - spindles, caliper brackets, and splash shields. Everything else is just stock replacement that you can get anywhere.
#5
As I suspected. So, in summary, if I convert to disc brakes, I could use lowering spindles, but the issue you describe in your original reply will still exist, (unless I get 15" wheels - which I'm not going to do). If all this is true, I'm just going to swap out front springs... Again.
#6
I would too. If your going to go through all that I would upgrade with the B-spindle upgrade parts. It takes the understeer out of these A-body bricks. Lots of articles on it. I did that on the 64 F-85 build , but I went nuts and installed a complete Hotchkis suspension. Your car will steer like a slot car.
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Murco
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March 7th, 2013 11:50 AM