BackInTheGame

I've checked the Assembly Manual, Chassis Repair Manual and Master Parts catalog, but cannot find documented the length of the Spacer and Link for my '68 4-4-2. Below is a picture of the old link in place. It clearly has a space between the upper end of the link/bolt and the bottom of the upper ball joint-to-spindle nut. However, my new parts are clearly longer, by about 1/2" to 3/4". I thought about simply flipping the link/bolt upside down, so that the nut attaches under the control arm, but all resources show the link/bolt with the threaded end up. Does anybody know the correct length for the spacer and link/bolt for the '68 4-4-2?

joe_padavano

A-body cars use a 2 7/8" sleeve. The F-body cars use a 2 5/8" sleeve if you want a shorter one.

Don't be too concerned about what happens at full suspension drop unless you plan to do a lot of Dukes of Hazard stunts. Once the weight is on the suspension, this is a non-issue. Also, you can flip the bolt over so the head is up.

BackInTheGame

Thanks, Joe; no Dukes! LOL!

I had toyed with the idea of cutting down the link/bolt and spacer. But I wanted to hear the input from The Board before I cut anything down. The new spacer measured 3" with a tape measure, so it probably is the 2-7/8" version.

I am installing my refinished stabilizer to the refinished CA/Spindle assemblies and frame. Even though the collective books show the link/bolt with the threads up for 36xx and 44xx series cars, you say it will be OK with the threads down. Once the car is back down on its wheels, this will not be a problem. In the meantime the link/bolt is obstructed at the top by the ball joint stud and nut.

I will go ahead and flip the link/bolt so that the threads are down.

Thanks again!

Allan R

The link kit you have suggests that you're not overly concerned about it being period correct (blue bushings vs. black bushings). Just an FYI? The reason the link bolt is shown the way it is in the diagrams is, when the rolling chassis components were assembled at the factory, the frame was inverted - making it easier for workers to assemble some parts. Flip the bolt 180° and your problem is solved, plus it makes it MUCH easier to install. That's what I did for convenience on my front end rebuild. Those old bushings were overdue.

BackInTheGame

Thanks, Allan, I appreciate that kind of background info. FWIW, I bought the AC Delco kit online. The pictures showed black bushings. When they showed up blue, meh, I just ran with it

I have them flipped top-for-bottom now, and they fit perfectly, with the threaded end down.

Thanks to all for a successful installation. Inner fenders are next to reinstall, then off come the fan and WP, then timing chain cover. As we all know: MAW! I've got a new Cloyes timing set to install... while I'm in the neighborhood, so to speak.