Bluemeanie

Hi All,
I finally solved my turn signal cam issue, which I'll post the solution in my original thread.
Now I have a new problem to solve...which is simple, but I would like some opinions before I start tearing things apart.
It seems at some point the steering shaft was rotated, which only allows the lock plate/cancelling cam to go on one way due to the alignment notch in the shaft. With the wheels straight, the horn contact currently sits in the 7-8 o'clock position, rather than the 10-11 o'clock position. That has the cam portion of that ring in the wrong spot. If I'm sitting at a light with my left turn signal on, and even bump the steering wheel left, it cancels. It gets really annoying.
My question is, what's the easiest way to disconnect the shaft under the hood, so I can rotate it? Do I have to loosen the steering box?
I just don't want to take anything apart I don't have to...
Thanks!

2blu442

The last time I had the front end aligned on my 1967 the shop had the steering wheel off just a little. They told me if I wanted they could adjust that to make the wheel in the correct location while going straight down the road. So I'm thinking there's something between the steering box and the wheels that they could adjust.


John

oldcutlass

Count the turn from lock to lock, then divide bt 2 and see where you steering wheel position is. If it's straight, your reassembly may not have been correct if you had it all apart.

Bluemeanie

Thanks fellas,
Just to be clear, this was a problem before I took it apart. I knew the turn signal switch was either broke, or put together wrong by the way it felt. It turned out that it was broke at the top where the turn signal lever attaches to it. I put it back together easily enough, but still had the weird issue of it canceling to easy in the left position. I took it apart again, and realized the cam was in a weird position. This is going to take a good 1/4 turn of the shaft to correct, so I'ts definetly not an "adjustment".
Been out of town all weekend, just trying to get some advice on getting the shaft loose under the hood. Maybe I just need to suck it up and go start pulling it apart.

oldcutlass

The reason I suggest counting the turns from lock to lock, is because possibly some time in the past an alignment may have been off, so the steering wheel was removed and then reinstalle a tooth or more off. So if you divide the turns by 2 and place the wheel there your steering box is centered. If your wheels are crooked at that point, then a your alignment vs steering wheel position is wrong. That will need to be corrected with the tie rod ends being readjusted and reset for correct toe in.

joe_padavano

The steering column parts are all designed to only go together one way for clocking purposes. For example, the rag joint has two different sizes bolts so the lower shaft only attaches in the correct orientation. The upper end of the lower shaft fits over the steering column splines and the notch for the pinch bolt only lines up in one orientation. At the steering wheel end of the column the shaft has a scribe mark that must be UP when the wheel is installed. If all these are correct, then the problem is an alignment issue with the tie rod adjustments being asymmetric.

Bluemeanie

OK,..so what your saying Joe, is the shaft can only go on one way on the lower end as well? My steering wheel is not off, and is notched the same everywhere. You could put it on upside down if you wanted to, except there is a hole in the steering wheel for the horn contact. The lock plate has a hole in it, where the horn contact comes through. The lock plate can only go on one way, therefore without the shaft being turned the cancelling cam will always be in the wrong position.
I'll investigate what you and Oldcutlass are telling me, check my wheel lock to lock, find center, and look and see if the tie rod adjustments look centered, or are cranked to one side. I did forget to mention, I have a rally wheel, so... my theory behind just moving the shaft was to unscrew the wheel from the hub and move it to to get it close, but thought I might still need to get it on an alignment machine when all is said and done. Maybe that is just the problem to begin with. I Love this site. This is exactly why I asked before I just started taking things apart.
Thanks guys...!

joe_padavano

Yes. GM tried to make the assembly as idiot proof as possible. This is also why the brake lines use different size flare nuts where they enter the M/C and combo valve, so the lines couldn't be mis-connected.

Bluemeanie

Well, you guys were right. I went out and turned the wheel lock to lock, and it doesn't quite get to halfway on the second pass going left, and is further than halfway on the right. About the same amount the cancelling cam needs to move. Thanks Oldcutlass and Joe....that saved me some frustration. I'll get it on the alignment rack next week. I guess someone must have taken the steering wheel (rally) off of the hub at some point, to make the steering wheel straight. Some correction is in order. I'll re-post when I get it back to confirm that solved the problem.
Thanks again

oldcutlass

It's happened more times than you can imagine. Let us know how it turns out.