RAMBOW

Introduction
Jeep Grand Cherokee Steering Boxes from 1993-1997 are a direct bolt in to GM A-Body cars- they have an almost identical turning radius as the stock box, feature 12.7:1 ratio- 3 Turns lock to lock, and have a .195 T-bar
The JGC Box is just one of many that are common steering box swaps for A-bodys- It is popular manily because of the correct turning radius (80's camaro & Monte Carlo boxes have a reduced turning radius when used in a 60's A-body) and because they are really easy to find, and are inexpensive in wrecking yards.
This one came out of a 1997 Grand Cherokee with 75k miles on it, and cost $45 at a Pull-a-Part.

Things that must be changed/dealt with to swap are..
Metric Input shaft Ragjoint & Metric O-ring lines.

I bought a Kit From Lee Engineering which came with the correct Ragjoint and a set of Flared Seat Adapters so i can reuse my original lines. I think it was about $60
I have heard that the ragjoint is also the same as late 70's GM trucks and can be had in the HELP section at the parts store for about $15.
You can also buy later power steering lines for an 80's car that use the O-Ring seats and convert over your pump to the O-ring fitting- I just chose not to do that.
The stock SAE lines thread into the metric holes on the box without problem- so as long as you have the flare seat adapters it will seal as the original one did.
Pitman arms are different, so you will need to rent/buy a pitman arm puller to remove your stock arm & the jeeps arm.
I did this on the car in both cases. WIth the STock box in place, used a breaker bar to remove the output shaft nut- then Pitman puller Tightened it up as far as it would go- whacked the back of the putman arm with a 5lb sledge, then kepth tightening the puller and it came off like butter.
Did the same thing on the JGC box at the end after I installed in on my car.
The new ragjoint I got from lee had two different sized bolt holes that go into the steering collumn shaft. My old one they were the same size, so i had to drill out one of them. Be sure to center your steering wheel and the steering box shaft first so you know which hole to drill! I talked to a couple others who've done this swap and they did not have to do that- so its possible its a 1966 and earlier thing only.

Installing the flare seat adapters was a peice of cake. You can see in the pics below what the stock box looked like vs the JGC box to start with.
Make sure you have the right one (pressure one is slightly larger than the return)
get a 1/4" bolt and nut to use as a set- Carefully put it into the bore- then tap it with a hammer
Thats it. Now install the box, reconnect your lines, Swap the A-body pitman arm over, and bleed your box and you are ready to drive.
...unforunatly i still have a disk brake swap to complete before i can give a road report on mine- but in the meantime here are a bunch of pics.

Stock Box:
DSC00424.jpg
DSC00422.jpg
DSC00420.jpg
DSC00421.jpg

Jeep Grand Cherokee Box:
DSC00425.jpg
DSC00423.jpg

Stock Boxes Flared Seats:
DSC00427.jpg
JGC Box O-Ring Seats:
DSC00434.jpg
Lee Engineering Flare Seat adapters:
DSC00436.jpg
Installing adapters:
DSC00437.jpg
After Adding Flare Adapters:
DSC00438.jpg
Lee Engineering Ragjoint:
DSC00440.jpg
Freshly painted JGC Box:
DSC00439.jpg
JGC Box installed!
DSC00447.jpg

MN71W30

Nice work!!!!
We did the upgrade on our 65 Biscayne...What a difference!!

Lady72nRob71

Nice "how-to" write up - great work!!

So you inserted the adapters and tapped them in with the bolt pictured?

RAMBOW

Exactly- they are a tight press fit- so Per Lee's own instructions, i used the bolt & nut to tap it into place. 2 or 3 taps with the hammer and it was seated.

OLD SKL 69

Nice write up Ben. I did this on my 71 about a month ago except I did not use the press in fittings. I received the g/c box with the org hoses still on it and I reused the low pressure hose and bought a 1981 Camaro high pressure hose. I just cut the end off that attaches to the pump and used a flare tool to put a 1/2" sae fitting on it. Came out great and looks stock!

Schram555

What about the size difference between the stock lower flange (the piece that clamps onto the spline) and the spline size on the JGC box?
Thanks

MN71W30

The splines match up.

Schram555

My splines don't match up. I bought the JGC box as posted, then pulled my stock box out and when I put the rag joint back together the size of the spines is different and the collar that threads horizontally, compared to the 2 bolts that go down the shaft and hold the rag joint together, doesn't clamp down on the spline enough to grab. There is approx a 1/8 - 1/4 inch gap in there. Any other ideas?

RAMBOW

As listed above, i used the ragjoint from lee Engineering- this will match the JGC boxes input shaft spines.

You may want to do a search in the suspension forum on Team Chevelle, as i beleive other people have listed the Doorman Partnumber for a generic ragjoing that will work. I think its for a mid 70's chevy pickup.

After bolting on the new ragjoint, i also had a 1/4"-1/2" gap between it and the end of the steering flange. I loosend up my steering column under the dash, sprayed some WD40 on the rubber seal where it goes throught eh firewall, and i muscled it down that 1/4" until it sat flush on the ragjoint.

I also had to hog out one of the two holes on the steering flange, as one of the bolts on the new ragjoint was larger than the other, and the stock one they were both the same size.

Hope this helps a little bit.

RAMBOW

Just adding another detail....

Power Steering Bleeding procedure (or What i did)

1. Tighten all your lines
2. Fill Resovior up to the fill line
3. jack up car allowing wheels to hang free
4. WITHOUT TURNING ON THE MOTOR Turn wheel from lock to lock about 10 times
5. Check resovior- Top off to the line if its low.
6. Turn wheel from lock to lock another 10 times or so
7. Check Resovior
8. Turn the wheel from lock to lock a bunch more times- Check & refill the resovior occasionally.

What you are doing is using the steering gear to act as its own pump to circulate the fluid. At this point since there is still air in the system you don't want to start the motor, as the pump will whip the fluid into foam- which takes forever to disapate.... So basically do the turning the wheel thing until you are practically bored out of your mind from turning the wheel.

9. After a while you will not notice anymore bubbles popping in the fluid and the level not dropping anymore- now start the car- Just for 30 seconds the first time. Then get out and check the resovior for foamy bubbles. If you have any- you will need to let them disapate and return to turning the wheel manually.
If no serious foam- then start the car again, and now turn the wheel lock to lock slowly- with the engine running- go check teh resovior for foam again...
Still no foam- continue turning lock to lock for a little bit with the engine running.

Once the level stops dropping and there is no more bubbles appearing after turning- your steering system has been bled.

Put the car on the ground and go drive it.

Lady72nRob71

Nice procedure!
I will be sure to have a beer in one hand, the wheel in the other, music cranked up, and be pretending to be racing up the curvy coastal highway 1 in Cali!

Bluevista

I don't see the jumper wire for the rag joint to ground the column , is there one there or don't you need it??

Do you toss the empties in the back Rob?
I heard you have to have a sliding back window in pick-up trucks in Texas for that sole purpose.

Lady72nRob71

I never even heard of or seen one of those wires...

That seems to be the purpose!
With a 'vert, you just toss the can in the air and let the wind take it away - much easier than trying to find that little hole in the wind'er...
Guys in fast boats do it the 'vert way, too, but they should be more environmentally responsible. They should at least fill 'em with water to make 'em sink to the bottom...

RAMBOW

there was no jumper wire or anything like that- but i beleive the ragjoint itself servers as its own grounding strap- it has a peice of metal the wraps around it that the bolts go through and down to the input shaft on the box- i bleive this connects the steering collumn & grounds to the box & frame.

Aceshigh

So what's the improvement over stock ?? I'm curious....

RAMBOW

Still working on loose ends (finished brake issues tonight- all thats left is alignment)- immediate difference thouhg- 2.5 turns lock to lock vs 4.0 turns stock had- little bit stiffer feel- but won't know for sure how that is until i can get the alignment done and actually do some street driving.

dhoff

Soooo has anyone had any driving experiences with the Gran Cherokee box on a 71 Cutlass, that they can share? Is it worth the change, and does it increase the road feel? I put the Hotckis suspention in and it handles well but steering is too light, ordered a Gran Cherokee box and the lee kit, just making sure I'm not wasting my time.

Lady72nRob71

I do not think you will be wasting anything. I have heard good responses from those who have done this. It will feel stiffer and more responsive.
To further improve your steering, you would also want to add a few degrees of positive camber when you have it aligned.

RAMBOW

when you say you "ordered" a grand cherokee box what does that mean?

I got mine for free (trade), and had already bought the LEE ragjoint & adapters.

Now that i have mine installed and have driven it- i like it, definitely much more responsive than stock- and a little harder effort, but not as much as i would have preferred- but it was free so i'm not complaining.

If i were to pay money, i would just send my original to Tom lee and have them gut it and rebuild it to modern specs and ask for the increased steering effort (.210 t-bar)

My $.02

For a cheap upgrade mod if you can get one from a wrecking yard though, you can't beat the bang for the buck on the jgc box.

bgoble

I converted my 72 Cutlass about 6 months ago. Without a doubt one of the best modifications I have made.

dhoff

[quote=RAMBOW;187274]when you say you "ordered" a grand cherokee box what does that mean?

I ordered the box from A1 Cardone, one of the suppliers to the auto parts I work for. I have access to used ones, but wanted to start with one not worn. I never priced having one custom redone but i think it would be pricey. dhoff

Bluevista

I just can't see putting a used steering box on, rebuilt ones aren't that much more and have a warranty for a year at least?
The box in my Vista only has 53k and has slop from wear so who knows what you'll get used.
You can't zero in the toe very well with a worn box and it also causes that wandering feeling which is accentuated by the slow ratio. May not feel it as much with the quick ratio though so it may be okay.
I want to stay as close to original as possible so I'm either going to go with the AGR Resto type, the Power Steering Services box or have mine and the pump rebuilt and upgraded by PSS or Lee Engineering.
They're all the same 12.7-1 ratio as the Jeep but with upgraded valving and stuff, bolt in with no modifications and lifetime guaranteed, not painted all black.
The boxes are supposed be a natural cast iron color with a natural aluminum top plate and end cover.

we jeep inn

I completed the GC swap last night. I also replaced the worn tie rod ends and draglink (Rock Auto had the best price on Moog parts and they were here in two days).

I got the steering box from a friend who bought a GC for the motor.

I ordered the "kit" from Lee Engineering which included the rag joint, the inserts, and the tool for installing the inserts for $92.

I made a lap around the block and I can say that it made a huge difference in my car. It handles much better and is more responsive. Gotta get the front end aligned before I drive too far.

A worthy, easy and inexpensive upgrade

therobski

I just picked up a box off a 96 Grand Cherokee for $45.00. Although 130,000 mile Jeep I think I should be good to go. I will order the other parts needed and get to work thanks

craftsman1956

So,I need 92-98 JGC box,79-84 GMC truck ragjoint,and fittings for the box or a 81 camaro hose to modify and I am set? The rag joint slides into the original steering coupler? does my 72 pitman arm go on the jgc box in the same position as the jgc arm that came off? Guess I'll figure it out where the center of turn is.Thanks

RAMBOW

93-98 JGC box
All the local Napa's around here will make custom hydraulic lines, just take your stock steering lines with you, and they can make you matching new ones with metric o-ring ends on the steering box side instead of the flared seat fittings.

The new ragjoint should bolt up exactly to your stock steering flange. On my 66, i had to hog out one of the two holes on my steering flange as one of the alignment studs was bigger than my 66 one- i have not heard that mod as needed on 68-72 cars.

the pitman arm gets installed straight back when the box is centered.

You may need to do an alignment on the car (or at least re-adjust toe-in/out after installing the box to ensure everything is still centered, although it will still drive fine, your steering wheel just may be cocked to one side or the other a little.

MDchanic

Or, you can just buy the two adapter fittings from NAPA or online.

The later ones have a neat trick for aligning the rag joint and box - the two studs are different sizes, even though the outsides of the two nuts are the same size. It can be confusing.

Not sure about earlier models, but the later pitman arm should have a "missing tooth" that matches one on the shaft, so it only goes on one way.
I think some Caprice police models had 2 splines missing, or something similarly weird.

You shouldn't have to align it - you haven't disturbed the caster, camber, or toe, and if you put the pitman arm back the way it was, the steering wheel should line right up, too.

- Eric

Bluevista

Not a wheel alignment, a steering wheel alignment.
In a perfect world the steering wheel would stay perfectly lined up.
I've never done one and had the wheel stay aligned at 12 o'clock, maybe I have no luck.
With the wheels pointing straight you loosen the tie rod adjusting sleeves and evenly turn them whatever direction is needed to align the wheel and when it's straight tighten them back up. It doesn't change anything but the steering wheel position, turn the adjusting sleeves unevenly and you will mess up the toe.
When you do a wheel alignment you clamp the steering wheel in the straight position and bring the front end alignment back to it.

MDchanic

I agree, just wanted to make the distinction, since Rambow's quote could be interpreted as meaning the car would need its toe-in adjusted after the swap.
The tow-in will remain the same, BUT, if your steering wheel isn't straight afterward (a strictly æsthetic problem), you can straighten it by adjusting the same sleeves you would use if you were adjusting toe-in (which I have found to be a gigantic pain in the rear, in my experience...).

In my own case, my car is in bad need of an alignment anyway, so I plan to do the swap and replace a tie-rod just before getting it aligned, to avoid all the banging and cursing associated with getting those @$#% sleeves to turn.

- Eric

J-(Chicago)

Out of the 20 I've owned, I've never had a GM car that the steering wheel was perfectly straight up and down with the wheels straight. I just tell myself, if it was a big circle with no centerpiece I wouldn't have noticed.

craftsman1956

Would you please tell me the part numbers for lee on the rag joint and fittings,I don't see them on their site?When you say "ragjoint" does that mean just the flexable piece or the metal parts too?Thanks alot!

therobski

One thing I just figured out is I'm going from a manual box to a JGC which is a PS box , the manual steering pitman arm will not fit, the hole is to small. I have located a 64 PS pitman arm and that did the trick.

mhood

Thanks for all the advice on this. I just put a JGC box with the Lee adaptor in my 72 convert and the difference is absolutley amazing.

therobski

According to what I have been told you center the steering wheel by adjusting the tie rod ends. It supposed to state that in the GM manual. Also would you guys recommend that the JGC box be rebuilt before install. The Jeep I pulled my of of had 155,000 miles on the clock. I'm assuming it's fine or am I kidding myself?

MDchanic

It's probably got some play, but compared to your original, it'll feel like a Formula 1 car.

- Eric

COcutlass72

can someone post a link for the Lee Engineering parts? I found a jgc box for 50beans, but I can't find squat on the Lee Engineering flanges and ragjoint


thanks
chris

MDchanic

Here's the link.

As far as the rag joint, if you can't find a used one, why not get a Lares 202 for $30 at Advance, instead of $80 or whatever at Lee?

- Eric

COcutlass72

Thanks man! I got no beef with advance, just tell them I need a lares 202? something tells me the guys at my store arent gonna know what to look for without a car to look the part up.

MDchanic

At mine they could only give me the Dorman number (31011), at $75.00 each, when I asked them to look it up ('80 Chevy pickup). Then I found the Lares number on line.
I didn't keep track of my path, but I found an incorrect reference to the Lares 200 (¾" 15 spline input) for this application, then I looked for and found listings that gave the specs of each of their models (I forget where now), and found that the 202 was for ¾" 32 spline, which is correct. I know it's right, because I just put one in my Delta / GC swap, and it fit like it was made for it.

The Advance guy had no idea what I was talking about when I asked for a Lares 202, but he punched it in, shrugged, and told me I could pick it up tomorrow.

Here's a link to their page listing it.

Good luck!

- Eric

rktolds

Does the pitman arm that is pulled off the original box need to be pressed onto the jeep box? Or does it slide on there and then the bolt holds it? I am doing a disc brake swap and have all the parts for the swap but wanted to ask this question before I take the original box off the car. Thanks.

Matt