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I see that track is now called US 131 Motorsports Park.
Incorrect, Greg is referring to the Mid Michigan Motorplex in Stanton Mi., where the Purestock Drags are held. Greg, not going to the streetrod nats. I plan on going to Purestock, weather permitting. There is a carshow (Apple fest) in Silver Lake tomorrow, but he weather might be wet. Temps in the 60's, I can bundle up for the temps., but not fond of rain. Supposed to be a 30% chance along the lakeshore. There is a local carshow on the 21st, about a mile from me. I plan on hitting that one, and the Pentwater Octoberfest show. Again, weather permitting.
Well, got into work this morning only to hear some bad news. A young female co worker (late 30's) who worked in my dept. and with whom I have worked with, died in a car accident along with her husband yesterday. A damn tragedy. Nice person, with a good sense of humor. I believe that they had two children. We are going to have a fundraiser at work for them.
A young female co worker (late 30's) who worked in my dept. and with whom I have worked with, died in a car accident along with her husband yesterday.
Dan - That is horrible and so sad! I really hope the kids have godparents, or have siblings of their parents who are willing to take them in. Such a tragedy.
About 10 a manager came and corralled everyone and they went over to the gate to see that guy off. They got back around 1. Funny, no one seemed to think they needed to work after that. I was at 10 for the whole day. I think it's nice the group of them could go. They went down on the ramp and were shipside. The Color Guard was there, I don't know who else. The family made the trip yesterday. Funeral is tomorrow and they've added an extra section for everyone who wants to go(Puerto Rico!) because all the regular flights were full.
Cloudy all day and now it's spitting rain. I hope that's all we get. Got a little bit cleaned up in the yard so I'm pleased. Haven't heard anything about the weekend.
Overtime tomorrow, then Awful house. After that who knows.
Dan sorry to hear about your co-worker, husband and their families will sure be twisted up for a while. No words can be said as much as we all just show up for support. Hang in there
Quietly reading thinking of the various weapons/ammo I own.
When I used to hunt Mourning Dove each year I hunted w/ a .410 & found 7.5 or 8 worked best regardless of fps. Mainly, I adjusted cartridge size based upon distance. Most of my Mourning Dove hunting was around watering holes in sunflower fields w/ distances no greater than 35 yards. I'd generally shoot into five or six Dove as they flew into the watering hole. Brought them down straight-away with extreme loss of flesh & few cripples
Hey Norm -
I almost forgot about our .410
Good self defense weapon too. Do you ever find the slug rounds or have any in your inventory, I always liked that gun Uncle Greg let us have.
Good to hear from you hope your runn'n on 8
Two 2.5 gal. jugs of Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection HD Diesel 15W-40 Motor Oil arrived this morning from Amazon. During the 1st 100K miles I changed oil every 3,000 miles. I currently have 193K miles. Since 100K miles I've changed oil every 5,000 miles. This will be my 52nd oil change for a total of 780 qts. (195 U.S. gals.) @ 15 qts./oil change. I alternate every other oil change between T4 & T6.
325 hp (242 kW) and 570 lb⋅ft (773 N⋅m) torque 18.0:1 compression ratio
3.74 in × 4.13 in (95 mm × 105 mm) bore and stroke.
Pistons & cyl. walls @172K miles (snapped this image during R&R of HPOP )
Good self defense weapon too. Do you ever find the slug rounds or have any in your inventory...
Keith - Interesting question. At one point in time I kept several boxes of .410 rifled slugs. One of my brothers had my Dad's original JC Higgins Sears and Roebuck Model 20 12ga wherein I traded him my .410 for Dad's 12ga ~12 yrs. ago. So, I haven't had a need for .410 rifled slugs. I disassembled the 12ga & did a cold bluing. I love that 12ga. I maintain 12ga rifled slugs in the 12ga + a couple boxes of 12ga rifled slugs for self defense. Nothing speaks self defense quite like the sound of a 12ga being chambered.
Been following Edison Motors a bit and they have landed a diesel motor source for their hybrid rigs from Europe. Anyone that would care to see the update here ya go. I enjoy rooting for the little guy making the way and leaving a mark.
Been following Edison Motors a bit and they have landed a diesel motor source for their hybrid rigs from Europe. Anyone that would care to see the update here ya go. I enjoy rooting for the little guy making the way and leaving a mark.
Scania is most likely the best commercial diesel engines fitted to lorries anywhere on the planet.
Cool to see the Manufacturers Rep for Scania keeping the personal touch for all customers large and small. When I was in wholesale customer service / inside sales/ in the electrical industry, I always tried to have the same ideals. Interesting the smaller customers paid their invoices on time and I had more fun working for them.
Pretty excited for Edison in keeping the momentum of growth moving along.
I love that 12ga. I maintain 12ga rifled slugs in the 12ga + a couple boxes of 12ga rifled slugs for self defense. Nothing speaks self defense quite like the sound of a 12ga being chambered.
Dad got me a Mossberg 500 Pump 20ga at 13 which I still have that came with both a standard modified choke barrel and a sighted, rifled slug barrel. In Michigan at that time you could only use a shotgun or muzzleloader to deer hunt in the lower half of the Lower Peninsula. I bought myself another Mossberg 500 at 15, this time a 12ga chambered for both std 2.75" and 3"-magnum shells. This time the package came with 3 barrels, a standard modified choke barrel, a slug barrel, and a legal minimum 18.5" home protection barrel. This gun with the 18.5" barrel is what I use for home protection with 3"-magnum 00 Buckshot for rounds.
I am getting going on my shelving project. So far, 1.5 coats of stain on the boards (top side final coat in the AM). Tomorrow evening, polyurethane begins. Also cleaned up my back porch from the carpentry, put two 4x8 luan plyboard down that I had painted 4 years ago, and put a couple coats on one side of two pieces. I'll flip them tomorrow, do two coats, then move onto the unpainted ones for three coats each. Just white latex paint, they're paneling a stud wall in the basement.
Microwave has issues. I believe it's either the magnetron or the high voltage transformer. They have all those red wires going between them and the guy in the middle, which is a real hillbilly hayride high voltage capacitor. It does have a 10 megaohm shorting resistor and it should be dead after being unplugged for several days, however, I'm going to work 1 handed with electrical gloves and the first and last thing I am doing is disconnecting the wires off that cap, then putting the new ones on after I change the two parts. Apparently these transformers can do inductive shock, so I'll do the whole thing with gloves on.
Yes, I don't know the exact storage capacity of the capacitor in your microwave; yet, don't count on several days being long enough to fully discharge. Safest best is to discharge the capacitor. I always discharge any capacitor before working on any wiring involving high energy (storage) capacitors e.g. microwaves, HVAC heat pump, etc. If you can't cross (short) the two terminals w/ a single flat blade screwdriver (to discharge the capacitor) because you're encumbered by other devices &/or work space, this is a nice way to do it. You can also do it crossing two screwdrivers, a pair of pliers or even a snap-ring pliers (w/ rubber or plastic sheathing). You only need a (momentary) millisecond to fully discharge the cap.
Yes, I don't know the exact storage capacity of the capacitor in your microwave; yet, don't count on several days being long enough to fully discharge. Safest best is to discharge the capacitor. I always discharge any capacitor before working on any wiring involving high energy (storage) capacitors e.g. microwaves, HVAC heat pump, etc. If you can't cross (short) the two terminals w/ a single flat blade screwdriver (to discharge the capacitor) because you're encumbered by other devices &/or work space, this is a nice way to do it. You can also do it crossing two screwdrivers, a pair of pliers or even a snap-ring pliers (w/ rubber or plastic sheathing). You only need a (momentary) millisecond to fully discharge the cap.
Not a whole lot of room for the awls. I stood on a rubber mat with sneakers and electrical gloves, pulled the harness off the cap, then shorted it. Later, I removed the cap for room.
Replaced both the magnetron and the high voltage transformer. I believe the issue was the transformer. Put everything back together, put the cover on, and nuked some water. It appears to have the same power it used to now. Sounds better, too, the buzz of the components is less harsh and less rattling. I'd like another 6 years out of this unit.
Edit: spoke too soon. Same behavior persisting. I am looking at door switches now. I am testing via shutting door enthusiastically to see if there is better performance before going after them.
Last edited by Koda; September 7th, 2024 at 10:35 AM.
Hi guys,
Went to a nice local Show today up in a far northern suburb of St. Louis called Hazelwood. The Show was put on by a local Ford Club, but was for all years/makes/models. There were 2 Classes, 1900 -1972 all makes/models Top 20, and 1973 - Present all makes/models Top 20. I was able to crack the Top 20. I got what I think is kind of a cool picture of the reflection of my air cleaner onto the inner side of my hood (pic). If you want to see the rest of the pics you can see them herw: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...4/#post1591169
Hope everyone has had a great day!
Same behavior persisting. I am looking at door switches now. I am testing via shutting door enthusiastically to see if there is better performance before going after them.
Perhaps you recall I replaced a door switch on my microwave earlier this year as it was intermittent. New door switch ($0.69?) & it runs like new.
Perhaps you recall I replaced a door switch on my microwave earlier this year as it was intermittent. New door switch ($0.69?) & it runs like new.
I did not recall. Apologies. What was your failure mode? Mine is the computer works, the counter goes, the light comes on, and the fan, and the turntable, but the microwaving itself is sometimes on and sometimes not.
IMO, a door switch should conk out all the above and flash DOOR on the LCD if not making them.
IMO, a door switch should conk out all the above and flash DOOR on the LCD if not making them.
IIRC, 1st symptom was complete failure during a cooking cycle. 2nd symptom was exact same as 1st symptom. I believe this occurred maybe 4 or 5 times. Next several times it became apparent is was a door SW as it wouldn't turn on but several aggressive opening/closing of the door yielded ON then OFF symptoms. I don't recall if interior light stayed ON during this & I don't recall if the touch pad functions illuminated and worked or didn't work. I'm nearly certain the touch pad remained working because I recall the clock working but no power to the magnetron. Mine is a CUISINART 1100W ~19 yrs. old. Never had any LCD errors or flashing. Expecting LCD errors, flashing &/or various function failures I suspect is highly dependent on manufacturer wiring.
Chris, that pump is screaming for an extended magazine tube. If you ever need to use it (hopefully that day or night never comes) you don’t wanna be limited to 5 (4 if you don’t keep one chambered).
Chris, that pump is screaming for an extended magazine tube. If you ever need to use it (hopefully that day or night never comes) you don’t wanna be limited to 5 (4 if you don’t keep one chambered).
You're right, that certainly would be nice! Always have my pistol as a backup though.
Chris, that pump is screaming for an extended magazine tube. If you ever need to use it (hopefully that day or night never comes) you don’t wanna be limited to 5 (4 if you don’t keep one chambered).
Supposed to be an excellent tactical shotgun, the Marine Corps and many Law Enforcement Agencies wouldn't use them if they weren't! Cool that you have one, I'm sure they ain't cheap!
New oil filter + 3.75 gals (15 qts) of fresh Texas gold. Lubed all grease zerks, ball joints, steering linkages, U-Joints, etc. Topped off the coolant system w/ an additional gal of antifreeze. Coolant system is a somewhat peculiar term since the coolant "system" is comprised of basically three components/systems: (1) 15 qts of engine oil (removes significant amounts of heat from this beastly piece of iron via engine oil passages + oil cooler); (2) 6.875 gals (27.5 qts) 50:50 antifreeze radiator coolant; & (3) (supercharger) turbo intercooler. When I installed the new serpentine belt last year (after it broke), I installed new AC components (compressor/dryer/etc.), new ALT, new PS pump, new pulleys, etc. & flushed the radiator coolant. After ~1 yr of driving I think the radiator system simply belched out any residual air pockets rendering the coolant level ~4 qts lower then nominal.
About 2008/2009 (~60K miles) I changed a rear drive (propeller) shaft U-Joint when I pulled the 2-piece (front/rear) drive shaft to PTFE lube the internal slip yoke splines. During the past year I've begun to notice a very minor/slight "thunk" accelerating from a dead stop. Common occurrence when spline lube breaks down & splines lose lubrication & voids develop between splines. Hand turning the drive shaft I have ~1.00" - 1.75" free turn in the drive shaft from the transfer case to the rear differential - all U-Joints are rock solid. There's some minor (0.5") play where the front/year drive shafts (internal spline yokes) assemble to each other. I examined the center (support) carrier bearing & it looks to be in serviceable condition, but I think I'll replace it. The bearing race looks just fine, the hardened rubber which contains the bearing race looks fine, but it's developed some vertical movement/freedom & it should optimally be rigid (for the most part - although, that's why it's contained in solid pressed/hardened rubber to allow "some" flex). Most likely the result of having installed the 4" suspension lift ~15 yrs ago it gets a tad more flex than OEM standard drive train pass-through. So, next will be removal of drive shaft, PTFE lube of the internal slip yoke between front/rear drive shafts and PTFE lube of slip yoke into transfer case w/ a new center (support) carrier bearing. Time to put together a shopping list. I don't currently own a drill press because if I did I'd install a grease zerk into two places in that drive shaft to lube those yoke splines. I should stop right now before I get carried away w/ MAW OCD because the only U-Joint in the drive shafts with a grease zerk is the one I installed - the remaining three have no zerks. I "might" talk myself into new U-Joints after I remove the drive shafts & have them on the bench. WTH is wrong w/ me? Stop it.
You're right, that certainly would be nice! Always have my pistol as a backup though.
Think seriously about this. If there’s an sudden event, do you have a quick strap on holster for the pistol so you can manipulate the scattergun? And conversely, do you have a way to carry the scattergun while you manipulate the pistol? If you’re gonna grab both, you need a plan on how that’s gonna work.
Last edited by Fun71; September 7th, 2024 at 08:15 PM.
I owned/carried/concealed a Kimber Ultra .45 ACP ~15 years - best handgun I've ever owned. Yet, I convinced myself I don't need any safety device nuisances (although they were both exceptionally well engineered safeties) when in self defense mode so I opted for a S&W double-action Airweight 5-shot revolver. Point & shoot - done deal. It's my 1st line of self-defense & remains un-holstered in the drawer night stand next to my bed. 2nd line of defense is the 12ga rifled slug. I own several holsters & depending on conditions/locations, I'll use a locking holster or non-locking holster depending on open-carry or concealed carry.
Think seriously about this. If there’s an sudden event, do you have a quick strap on holster for the pistol so you can manipulate the scattergun? And conversely, do you have a way to carry the scattergun while you manipulate the pistol? If you’re gonna grab both, you need a plan on how that’s gonna work.
Yes, I do have a quick attach velcro arm holster. Tons of variables when trying to develop a plan/s to thwart a home invasion, but we do have plans that involve access to multiple weapons throughout the home that can be retrieved quickly regardless of what room we're in, and where the threat is coming from.
Supposed to be an excellent tactical shotgun, the Marine Corps and many Law Enforcement Agencies wouldn't use them if they weren't! Cool that you have one, I'm sure they ain't cheap!
I bought it used, but it was new, so I paid about 60% of retail for it. I've got some various accessories for it.
(1) The housing industry is 100% complete *** backwards regarding home safety. Who in there right mind makes it (a) easier to break into a home and (b) harder to leave a home than exterior doors which are DESIGNED to be PUSHED IN from the exterior and PULLED IN from the interior? Who in their right mind designs homes to make it easier to invade and harder to escape? Think about that one!!!!
(2) The building industry has YET to establish correct/logical/safe commercial public/private restroom doors. Let me ask the question? When you enter a restroom, should you enter a restroom by either pulling it open or pushing it open? When you exist a restroom should you have to turn the handle with your hands to exist or simply push the door to exit? Viruses, bacteria, mold, fungus, snot, grime, etc. easily reside on restroom door handles. The kid or adult who just **** their pants, has influenza, etc. and didn't wash their hands - you can thank them as you lay in bed suffering. Public safety should dictate you push open a restroom door to exit w/o the need to touch a handle on any public/private restroom handle. I know y'all are going to tell me you use your knuckles, a towel, your shirt sleeve, etc. but THAT is no code. We require code development. Don't get me going on ATM card readers and the nasty bugs which reside on the numbers you enter with your PIN.
BONUS: Who in their right mind allows all vehicle traffic to pass directly in front of a grocery store/big box store entrance & exit? Who? A complete imbecile that's who. No vehicle traffic should be allowed to travel in front of the entrance/exit of these stores.
Norm, my previous house had a door to the garage that opened outward. That means the hinges were on the outside of the dwelling. The wife locked me out several times (not what you’re thinking) and I got in by removing the hinge pins and removing the door.
So having the hinges on the inside seems more secure than having them on the outside.
A metal (or other very strong) door frame would greatly enhance security.
Kenneth - That's funny & I know the type door you're referring to as my parents had doors to the garage which opened outward. Yet, we shouldn't be encumbered by hinge type/style. You can (and they do) manufacture door hinges with hinge pins mounted to the interior for exterior egress. Technically, I believe the hinge supports the door while the hing pins contained in the barrel(s) support the hinge regardless of barrel hinge pin location. Fully agree on the metal door frame. Many homes don't have metal door frames but best practice I think is to install deadbolts with a minimum 2" preferably 3" intrusion into the wood door frame and install a metal dead bolt plate into the door frame. My deadbolts have a 3" intrusion into wood door frames. My front door has a metal dead bolt plate installed in the door frame, my rear door does not.
Some of the safeguards & types of home invasion, burglaries & thefts I've read about suggest:
(1) Thefts are generally opportunistic; (2) Burglaries are planned opportunities. Both dictate the notion "out of site, out of mind". Poorly maintained landscaping, weeds, brush piles, garbage, curbside waste product & refuse bins etc., display general opportunities and invite planned opportunities. I've read something like 60% of home invasions occur between 12:00noon - 4:00pm, times when most (working class or otherwise) residents are not at home. One of my brother's experienced theft via home invasion in broad daylight (when no one was home).
EDIT: Forgot to mention many door hinges can be found, manufactured & installed with no external (either interior or exterior) hinge pins.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; September 7th, 2024 at 10:27 PM.
Norm - All good points about designing and installing exterior doors that are both more physically secure, and designed to lessen the potential for transmission of communicable disease. Not the kind of thing we think about often, but we should. I've read one of the favorite points of ingress for burglars are standard sliding patio doors. It doesn't take much strength with a decent crowbar to force most of them open. As usual, there are types with better safety features, but they aren't standard in most residential construction, except maybe in very high end areas.
September 6th, 2024, 01:13 PM
